Large Scale Central

Bandon Depot Part 2 Update - May31

Modeling
#1

Here’s the latest on the depot…slow and unsteady. hehe! Part One… http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=8667

Window frames on, ready for siding.

Unfurnished interior view looking towards front.

Interior looking towards bay window. “Wood” floor is scribed pvc coated with spray stain and allowed to dry. Counter also is same but with a darker stain.

Exterior cedar siding boards are cut and individually fitted then removed in order and painted on both sides.

Glue is applied in beads on structure one section at a time. Welder illustrated is available at Walmart and other stores. There is also a larger 4oz size in a silver tube, same stuff but no longer available at our local Walmart.

Glue is spread out with a small stick to cover as completely as possible.

The precut and painted boards are laid into the glue in order.

Here’s the depot with the siding on.

The roof is clear acrylic, very handy for placing the intrior bracing as you can see through it. I also have used pvc with great success for roofs.

The clear roof set in place gives an idea of what it’ll look like.

The upper floor was painted black as there’ll be no interior detail upstairs. Lights for downstairs are merely poked through holes and the wires from the exterior lights are run up and through slots cut around the periphery to allow floor to be removed for access.

18 ga. bare copper wire is used as bus bars to which bulb leads are soldered. 12 volt electric service will be fed up through a hole in the floor in the baggage section.

Lights temporarily hooked up with test leads.

A not so good photo gives some idea of what the lower floor will look like. Roof detail and painting are next.

#2
Richard Smith said:
Here's the latest on the depot....slow and unsteady. hehe!
Mikey likes it! Oh, the hell with Mikey. I like it.
#3

Dude!

#4

fantastic–I can’t wait to see more.

is that blue foam you used or the basic form?

#5

Wow.
I wish I had 10% of your talent!
Ralph

#6

Thanks guys!

mike omalley said:
fantastic--I can't wait to see more.

is that blue foam you used or the basic form?


Mike:
The pvc used in the floors is more dense than blue foam insulation. It comes in various thicknesses. I used white 3/16" for the floors and for the roof over the bay window. I’ve also used 3/8" and 1/2" ripped on the tablesaw for square sign posts. My crossbucks, yard limit sign and whistle posts are all made of pvc. The building’s walls are clear acrylic as is the roof. No need to cut openings for windows or doors as you would do with blue foam.

#7

Excellant!!

#8

Holy moly, that looks fantastic! Absolutely beautiful work!

I assume that painting the wood on both sides before gluing it down helps to preserve it?

#9

You can just drop that in the mail and send it this way… :slight_smile:

#10

Ray,
I always assume moisture will get where it’s not supposed to so I paint on bothe sides. Actually I primed both sides and only put the finish color on the outside surfaces.

Bob,
I guess I could disassemble it and send it as a kit. hehe! The post office would probably deliver it that way regardless anyhow.

#11

Richard,
Absolutly excellent, as usual!!
I have got to try your method of construction one day soon.
Perhaps on the Smith’s Camp buildings that are still in the
planning (thinking) stages.

Question.
You have no trouble gluing paint to paint instead of
clean surface to clean surface?

That is going to be a beautiful depot makes my latest effort look a little pale,
in fact, I think I will go out now and throw rocks at it.

Keep up the good work
Rick Marty

#12
Rick Marty said:
Richard,

Question.
You have no trouble gluing paint to paint instead of
clean surface to clean surface?

Rick Marty


Rick,

The contact cement that I use (illustrated in one of the photos) doesn’t seem to care if there’s paint or not. In fact it adheres quite happily to primed surfaces. Another nice feature is that it gives me a few minutes to position parts and then clings like a monkey to a banana.

Smith Camp? Is that one of those places with little cabins in a row with red lanterns in the windows? :slight_smile:

As for your beautiful depot, just send it along over here and it’ll be in POC colors before your handprints cool off. I will need one more depot for Port Orford so watch out! hehe!

#13

Do you buy the acrylic cut to fit, or do you cut it yourself? If you do it, how do you cut it? I’ve tried using a saber saw but it just splintered the acrylic. I did find that on small pieces of 1/16" acrylic, I could just score and snap it, but I don’t know how well that would work on larger or thicker pieces.

Also, the seated figures in the depot look good – who makes them?

#14

Looks like you’ve made some progress since I last saw that. Man, it sure looks nice.

#15

As usual Richard, outstanding work. Thanks for posting.

#16

Thanks much Bruce & Jon

Ray Dunakin said:
Do you buy the acrylic cut to fit, or do you cut it yourself? If you do it, how do you cut it? I've tried using a saber saw but it just splintered the acrylic. I did find that on small pieces of 1/16" acrylic, I could just score and snap it, but I don't know how well that would work on larger or thicker pieces.

Also, the seated figures in the depot look good – who makes them?


Ray,
I cut the acrylic myself on a 10" tablesaw. I now have a special plastics blade but I have also used 60 and 80 tooth carbide tipped blades. The only difference is that the plastics blade doesn’t heat the material as much so it doesn’t create the little ridges along the cut line that have to be plucked off.

The secret to cutting acrylic is to be sure it is held firmly down on the table. If allowed to raise up just a slight bit it will shatter. That’s probably the reason it shattered when you used the saber saw. The acrylic must have good support. I haven’t had need to use a saber, jigsaw to cut acrylic but if I were to try it I’d use a not too aggresive blade, clamp the material down securely and cut as close to the edge of the point of support as possible. That might work. If the saw blade pulls the acrylic up even a small amount it will almost certainly shatter so wear your spectacles.

Of course if you order your plastic from TAP Plastics they can cut it for you for a nominal cost. Probably there are other plastics suppliers that offer a similar service. Since I “design” as I build, following only a general idea usually drawn on a note pad it’s better for me to cut my own as needed.

The figures are some of “Just Plain Folks” newer ones I believe.

#17

Very neat!