I recientky bought a used Bachmann two truck shay.The engine is in very nice condition except two of the drive wheels were loose.It seems that two of the plastic hubs behind the holding screws were cracked.I was able to make some hubs to try the engine which ran well after lubricating it.My question is I noticed that Trainworld sells diecast trucks for the shay.Are these replacement trucks really better than the originals?Has anyone done this modification?I don’t see any two truck shay parts listing on Bachmanns website.
I just had the replacement trucks Bachmann offers installed on one of my Shay’s this past summer.
They work well, a little pricey but IMO it was worth it because the shay is one of my favorite running engines.
I had countless hours and many years of use on the originals before having issues with the gears, so I didn’t hesitant having it fixed.
I have three of the Bachmann two truck shays. After experiencing the gear failure notorious in these shays, and on the advice of several other modelers, I replaced the plastic trucks on two of the engines with the diecast trucks. Both engines are running fine. Although the diecast trucks are a little pricey, I believe they are worth the expense if you are planning on keeping the shay for a long time. Use of the diecast trucks will avoid possible, some say likely, problems with the plastic trucks.
Have they got washer kits? 6-screw or 8-screw?
If bottom cover has 8 screws, new trucks, period.
Look for washer kits…easy to tell by looking at the non-geared wheel, between wheel and sideframe. BIG flatwasher, the size of the bushing ring?
If not, no kits, and the gauge is probably 1.530" or less.
New trucks.
I know those kits well.
All Shays have them since late in 6-screw run.
If the bushing has gone, the rest is probably right behind it.
Screwholes cracked out to hold bottom cover to block? Top plate screwholes cracked out or tabs missing?
New trucks.
TOC
Ive replaced these for club members and the diecast trucks are the way to go for smooth running. other than selling them and buying all USA Trains for the best operation…)
Round and Round…and DCC for me…
I put this up earlier, and it’s gone…no idea.
ALL Bachmann Shay trucks have the same motors, axles, wheels, gears, sideframes and end beams.
ALL of them.
Differences are housing, bottom plate, bulkheads, pivot…and pickups (which we pitch anyway).
I finally installed the new die cast trucks on my shay.They run very smooth.My shay is likely a first run Eli Thomas with a number 5 designation.The instillation instruction sheet leaves a bit to be desired.First it shows 2 screws that have to be removed to remove the truck from the old top plate.On my shay 4 screws must be removed from each truck.Secondly the instructions show the existing wiring is red and black.My shay all wiring is black.The wiring had to be checked out with a DVM to get polarity correct.Third the flat washers holding the new truck were missing.Luckily I found some flat washers that would fit.I hope this helps anyone who might have the same shay as I have.
Richard,
Sounds like a typical installation
Richard Greenberg said:
I finally installed the new die cast trucks on my shay.They run very smooth.My shay is likely a first run Eli Thomas with a number 5 designation.The instillation instruction sheet leaves a bit to be desired.First it shows 2 screws that have to be removed to remove the truck from the old top plate.On my shay 4 screws must be removed from each truck.Secondly the instructions show the existing wiring is red and black.My shay all wiring is black.The wiring had to be checked out with a DVM to get polarity correct.Third the flat washers holding the new truck were missing.Luckily I found some flat washers that would fit.I hope this helps anyone who might have the same shay as I have.
Geez. I wrote the “procedure” for that when they came out, and published it. No worries on polarity, just reverse the top plate (rotate it) for trucks that run reverse of the motors.
Here it is from 2007:
Remove old trucks.
Two long screws at each end under bottom cover, two short screws hidden up
inside sideframes between wheels, one per side, and that’s per truck.
Lift truck off top plate, move forward to drop driveline off, rotate and
pull out of front steps.
Remove top plate with one screw and washers.
Cut wires as close to the plate as you can.
Take new top plate, strip back 1/2" of insulation on the end after slipping
a 1" or so piece of shrink-tube over the wire.
Strip back 1/2" or so on wires from locomotive.
Twist together (like a Western Union splice), solder, slide the shrink tube
over the joint, heat with a Zippo.
Mount the new part to the chassis with new screws and washers provided.
Mount truck with 2 small machine screws roughly the same location as the 2
small screws you took out on the old trucks.
Repeat at other end.
Place loco on track, hold one truck clear of rails (important!) and apply
low power.
See if all wheels on both trucks are turning in same direction, AND if the
direction follows the headlights.
To correct either or both in direction, remove offending truck, rotate top
plate 180° and re-install truck.
TOC
Glad to hear that the new trucks are a good investment. I have a first run Ely Thoma Shay, that has been back to Bachmann twice for “repair”. The second time, I thought they would upgrade to the metal trucks, but they didn’t. I have a set of metal trucks in my spares for the next time the trucks on my Shay fall apart.
Thanks for the heads up on the wiring and washer. I will be sure and pay attention when it comes time for the upgrade.
The instructions that curmudgeon Mcneely has written are good and well written, however they are not the ones that came with my new #88999 power trucks…The part number of the instruction sheet is G821X-IS007 for the old LS Shay…Nothing is said about the Two screws under the bottom plate and it says to use electrical tape after “connecting” the red and black wiring.The drawing shows the front and back holes in the top plate with nothing connecting to them.There is also no reference to the bottom plate.
Original instructions said masking tape, of all things, and to just twist the wires together. Which is why I wrote the new instructions.
Sent them to Botchman, and they still screwed them up.
TOC
Richard, go with what Dave (TOC) wrote. You will be a lot happier.