Large Scale Central

Bachmann Switches! Arghhhh!

Track and Trestles
#1

OK, I know… LOTTA people have issues with Bachmann switches… but there’s some things you have to decide for yourself after experience.

I bought ONE switch, just to see if all the whining is justified. The result is “maybe… or maybe not”.

The switch is… interesting. I can’t get a track section to mate with the entrance to it; the blade on the track section (EVERY section I’ve tried) is too wide to slide into the slot molded into the switches curved rail. It’s gonna take some filing of the blade… which means that ONE specially modified section of track will fit into the switch (the other two mating points work OK).

I could try using a Dremel tool on the switch’s slot, but I’m not good enough with a Dremel and a small, slim grinding bit to do it without trashing the whole thing, I fear.

Beyond that… I can see the possibility of some fine tuning with a file to make things less prone to derailing at the points, and probably deepening the frog clearances.

Other than these rather major problems… I’m somewhat impressed with Bachmann switches; a LOT more impressed than I am with thier track! I just wish thier track was as substantially built as their switches are!

Question… has anyone out there converted Bachamann switches to remotely actuated? If so, how did you go about it?

First instinct is a couple of solenoids, but I’m afraid of battering the switch to pieces in fairly short order.

Are there any reasonable alternatives to using Bachmann switches with Bachmann track?

Thanks,

Mr. T.

#2

I didn’t even know they made switches in Large Scale. Are they folded steel like their track? If so, outdoors it won’t last and rust will make cleaning for track power next to impossible. Indoors they should be OK.

#3

I have 2 in my shed and have no problems whatsoever, they are solid not folded

#4
Jon Radder said:
I didn't even know they made switches in Large Scale. Are they folded steel like their track? If so, outdoors it won't last and rust will make cleaning for track power next to impossible. Indoors they should be OK.
First off... for the moment, I'm thinking strictly indoors, so Bachmann folded tin track is a reasonable choice.

The switches are somewhat more substantially constructed than the track. The rails appear to be cast, solid metal. Going at them with a micrometer they appear to be about code 335.

The switch rails seem to be pivoted at the frog rather than flexed. They’re manual, with a couple of thumb peices for shifting. My main complaint with that is that there’s no detent positions to lock the switch in place. Examining the critter it looks possible to improvise some sort of solenoid switch machine to both shift it and hold it in position; a TTL based controller (simple flip-flop) shouldn’t be a big deal.

It wouldn’t be a real big deal to convert one of these into a spring switch for use at a reversing loop, in fact that would be VERY easy with these switches.

Guard rails are plastic, as is the frog… THAT I don’t like. I can see how a slightly larger than usual wheel flange would create problems with that frog.

As I said earlier, I can see it possibly being necessary to take a file to the switch points to make for a smoother transition on turns, but that’s not a huge deal.

Mr. T.

#5

OK - Thanks Tom. Unless you opt to pay the really big bucks, almost any pre-made switch is going to need some work. If you can get these reasonably, they fit your needs, and you can make any needed changes yourself, then there’s no reason not to use them.

Speaking of spring switches, the thought came into my head that I need to convert the switch on my reverse loop to a spring switch. I’ve seen it done on 1:12 scale ride-on where there is simply a threaded rod extending from the end of the points through a metal plate attached to the ties. Over the threaded rod is a spring held in place with a washer and nut. The treads allow for adjusting the tension. I’m going to experiment with a mod like this on an Aristo Wide and see how it works.

#6

The Bachman switches are definitly more robust than their track. My winter-time basement layout is comprised of about 90% Bachman given to me by friends who started out with a Bachman trainset. My local hobby shop sells the Bachman switches for around $25 which leads to the question of why not buy an Aristo switch instead? I’m a slow learner, I bought 12 Bachman switches BEFORE the idea hit me I could buy an Aristo or an LGB from Trainworld< etc for almost the same price and then be able to use those outside if & when needed.

#7

And now that brass track prices have gone thru the ceiling, there the most inexpensive thing out there. I wonder if we shall see an increase in this tracks usage for the indoor crowd.

#8

I’m NOT a fan of Bachmann track but if you are trying to mate a turnout (R1 by the way) to solid track, I would suggest using the metal “tab” that comes with Bachmann track (there are plastic ones as well but I wouldn’t use them!) and then use railclamps.

#9

(Four years later, it’s Jan, 2012) continuing discussion of B’mann switches, and then onto track in general…

Guy in Winnipeg builds an outdoor streetcar setup every fall & runs it thru the Christmas season, keeps it up 'til spring. Has done it for years now, all with Bachmann switches & he insists no problems. I own some. I think these switches are solid brass, some cast parts, also brass, then everything plated, possibly w. nickel.

I create temporary layouts at RR shows for kids to play with, use B’mann track and switches for this - the layouts are set up on tables - I have about a dozen of these switches. 5-6 years of use and no probs. I actually like the B’mann switches a whole lot, b’lieve it or not… I like the facts that they are easy for kids to use, and there’s no fragile switchstand or unrelieble mech of any kind to break on them. I am a confirmed disciple of simplicity. As far as toys go, they’re pretty good quality IMHO. I’ve had no issues with fitting B’mann track to these switches.

In case anyone is wondering about my sanity… I do have a real garden RR as well. I use Brass code 332, mixed LGB and Aristo, and lately a little Piko, which is very nice stuff. As I write this, B’mann have begun selling brass track just thgis month. It will be interesting to see what kind of switches they produce for this line.

I have used quite a lot of Aristo stainless in the past, but I pulled it all a couple of years ago as IMO it was just too modern looking, too clean and too Hi-iron in appearance for my 1900’s backwoods line.

Oh, and one more thing - a biggie - I prefer brass 'coz I can solder it. I use silver solder on some rail joints, and, having been an old hand-layer in smaller scales, I can forsee perhaps wanting to handlay some turnouts at some future time. My main reason is that I have NO USE for plastic frogs!!! I wonder what on earth the mfrs were thinking!

Code 332 brass is very strong, but my stainless steel stuff was darn near indestructible, and it never needed cleaning as far as I could determine. I had it out there for 3 or 4 years. If I ran a modern or Hi Iron mainline-type pike I think I’d want to use stainless track for sure.