Large Scale Central

Bachmann Spectrum 2-6-0 not running

I have 3 Bachmann 2-6-0 Spectrum Moguls. All 3 of them no longer run!? I have run them in the past but not in a number of years. I all 3 on the bench the other day to oil and lube them and then try them out. All 3 jerked for a moment and then nothing. It almost sounds like something is spinning and clicking inside. Something that seems odd to me is that I can move the wheels by hand very easily, almost effortlessly.

Here’s a picture of one of the locomotives. All 3 are the same except different colors. Below the image is a short video showing how easily I can turn the wheels (ignore the noise, that was caused by by me).

Backmann 2-6-0 Spectrum Mogul

The drive gear on the rear axle has cracked. Check the Bachman web page and see if they offer a replacement gear for them. Your locomotives would be due to experience this gear problem. It is a common occurrence.

Fred Mills

Absolutely the most common failure and well documented on virtually every train forum, including Bachmann. Been this way for years. You can even have this happen to a “brand new” one (NOS).

That’s how I got my Bachmann Connie;

The guy who owned it said it was stuffed and it had been sitting in his shed for years, as he had moved on to HO he gave it to me.

A quick look at the Bachmann store a Voila!!!, an axle with brass gear for $18.

Same here. My faithful 2-6-0’s drive gear finally bit the dust a while back. Got a replacement fitted on an axle from Bachmann. Note the Bachmann supplied item, still plastic, is now on a “D” shaped mount on the axle rather than the splined one on the original. Strangely the new batch 2-6-0/2-4-0’s have a brass gear factory fitted as did the original Bachmann replacement supplied gear for failed 2-8-0 “Connies” (not to be confused with the fine C-19 2-8-0 they make). You could also try https://nwsl.com/ for a straight fit replacement, gearwheel only, if you have no luck at Bachmann. Get a spare for each loco while you are at it, you never know if it might fail again. I have.

Replacing the axle/gear can be a bit fiddly as the dummy valve gear is mounted on the drive axle too and you have remember to get everything back in the right order. Just work methodically and take a few pictures as you disassemble, It will all go back together fine in the end. Pay particular attention to the “quartering” of the wheelsets and motions too when reassembling. Note - If you had not yet spotted it, the screws holding wheels on the axles are under the small decorative removable wheel “hubcaps”. Replace those horrible suppressor capacitors mounted on the end of the motor while you have got everything out, they are another weak point.

I assume this is what I need?

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_145&products_id=4833

I just ordered 3 of these from Bachmann. Now to try to figure out how to install them. I may have to lean on TOC.

Nothing strange about the new locos having a brass axle gear, it’s been advertised (and requested) for quite some time. That is the version 6, and apparently you can get them now, but they don’t sell the entire chassis with the version 6 gearbox yet.

timmyd DeHan said:

I assume this is what I need?

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_145&products_id=4833

I just ordered 3 of these from Bachmann. Now to try to figure out how to install them. I may have to lean on TOC.

Timmy, the instructions are here:

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?topic=19904.0

It’s the middle axle you will be replacing. The only fiddley bit is the valve gear which has to come off the axle as you remove it. I take a small piece of blue painters tape and wrap it around the axle end of the valve gear while it is loose, to keep it from flopping around.

For re-assembly, all the parts are indented or have flats so it goes together only one way.

Pete are you sure about the middle axle, or did they change location, because Greg’s pic shows the gear on the lead axle… Maybe they needed more room.

I at one time had one of those 2-6-0, Spectrum Moguls, and I suggest, as in my first posting, that the geared axle is the REAR one, as shown in the picture. The rear axle does not have the extra valve motion on it, and is less complicated to replace.

It would be far better to get the “BRASS” geared axle as a replacement, as then you would probably never have to replace it again.

Fred Mills

I believe the older 2-6-0 is the middle driver as Pete has described,

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/G816X-IS002-2_CHASSIS.pdf

and the newer ones are the rear driver as Fred has described.

but the “sound ready” version on the site also shows middle driver

https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/LS2-6-0_SOUNDREADY_Chassis.pdf

Now I am confused.

Greg

John Caughey said:

Pete are you sure about the middle axle, or did they change location, because Greg’s pic shows the gear on the lead axle… Maybe they needed more room.

Thanks for the correction Fred. At least I could tell it wasn’t the blind one.(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)

Fred Mills. said:

I at one time had one of those 2-6-0, Spectrum Moguls, and I suggest, as in my first posting, that the geared axle is the REAR one, as shown in the picture. The rear axle does not have the extra valve motion on it, and is less complicated to replace.

It would be far better to get the “BRASS” geared axle as a replacement, as then you would probably never have to replace it again.

Fred Mills

Yes, Greg’s pic of the brass gears shows the rear axle, with the chuff cam on the middle, as the valve gear is all going forward from the center wheels.

However, I would be very careful with the brass axle (not that it is available as far as I know.) The gear may be different from the usual type (size, etc.) Those new ones that Timmy just purchased are different from the older ones, in that the “D” shaped axle holds the gear, and the NWSL replacement will not fit, as it isn’t knurled to hold the gear. Time will tell if these replacements are better plastic than the originals, which crack as they shrink due to old age (we think.)

In this photo of the old-style gearbox (with the original gear) you can see lots of idler shafts, which don’t show on the photo of the brass gear - and the latter looks larger?

P.S. I don’t see any inside valve gear on Greg’s photo. Does the ‘brass gear’ version not have working valve rods?

My fault, the picture I posted was of a 4-6-0, not the 2-6-0…

All 2-6-0’s have gearbox on middle axle as Pete Said.

Sorry, I was responding to Max talking about metal gears, was trying to show all metal gears in a Bachmann gearbox, not meaning to cause confusion about this 2-6-0.

Greg

So Max: I have not seen the 2-6-0 with a brass gear as you state below, where did you see this or get this information? I think you may be confusing the gen 6 “big hauler” 4-6-0… Can you provide a reference?

Max Winter said:

Same here. My faithful 2-6-0’s drive gear finally bit the dust a while back. Got a replacement fitted on an axle from Bachmann. Note the Bachmann supplied item, still plastic, is now on a “D” shaped mount on the axle rather than the splined one on the original. Strangely the new batch 2-6-0/2-4-0’s have a brass gear factory fitted as did the original Bachmann replacement supplied gear for failed 2-8-0 “Connies” (not to be confused with the fine C-19 2-8-0 they make). You could also try https://nwsl.com/ for a straight fit replacement, gearwheel only, if you have no luck at Bachmann. Get a spare for each loco while you are at it, you never know if it might fail again. I have.

Replacing the axle/gear can be a bit fiddly as the dummy valve gear is mounted on the drive axle too and you have remember to get everything back in the right order. Just work methodically and take a few pictures as you disassemble, It will all go back together fine in the end. Pay particular attention to the “quartering” of the wheelsets and motions too when reassembling. Note - If you had not yet spotted it, the screws holding wheels on the axles are under the small decorative removable wheel “hubcaps”. Replace those horrible suppressor capacitors mounted on the end of the motor while you have got everything out, they are another weak point.

To be on the safe side I also ordered 3 of the axle and gears from NWSL. TOC recommended them. Pete, are saying that these will not work?

I’m wondering if you have the new or old style. The tipoff is if the motor is horizontal or vertical. The early ones were vertical, and the later ones are like Pete’s picture. Exploded drawings for both types are on the Bachmann site.

Greg, my understanding is the new batch of 2-6-0/2-4-0 has an all metal gear box, see here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-G-EUREKA-PALISADES-2-6-0-TENDER-81487-DCC-SND-READY-NEW/312731750249?hash=item48d043cf69:g:S4EAAOSwLF1X21A2. Looks like Bachmann might learn from there past mistakes. Or is the cut and paste job that Al has used lying.

The strange bit about metal gears I mention is that Bachmann decided to use a plastic gear on a “D” shaped mount for the 2-6-0/4-4-0 rather than the brass gear mounted on an axle as had been done with the Connie replacements. Or at least the one Bachmann supplied direct to me about 8 years ago. Oh, and while I’m here - did you notice the schematic you posted for the 2-6-0 is for the little “mining” Mogul not the 2-6-0 the OP has - the clue is that there is no centre axle mounted valve gear shown.

On a more general note perhaps some people here could take time to read my posts more carefully, I get a bit fed up sometimes with being dissed or totally ignored - they are mostly based on experience and try to offer “best practice” advice. Just because I’m one of those pesky Limeys does not mean I am totally ignorant of product mostly aimed at the US market. They have their fans over here too. OK, rant over back to the plot.

Max Winter said:

Greg, my understanding is the new batch of 2-6-0/2-4-0 has an all metal gear box, see here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-G-EUREKA-PALISADES-2-6-0-TENDER-81487-DCC-SND-READY-NEW/312731750249?hash=item48d043cf69:g:S4EAAOSwLF1X21A2. Looks like Bachmann might learn from there past mistakes. Or is the cut and paste job that Al has used lying.

The strange bit about metal gears I mention is that Bachmann decided to use a plastic gear on a “D” shaped mount for the 2-6-0/4-4-0 rather than the brass gear mounted on an axle as had been done with the Connie replacements. Or at least the one Bachmann supplied direct to me about 8 years ago. Oh, and while I’m here - did you notice the schematic you posted for the 2-6-0 is for the little “mining” Mogul not the 2-6-0 the OP has - the clue is that there is no centre axle mounted valve gear shown.

On a more general note perhaps some people here could take time to read my posts more carefully, I get a bit fed up sometimes with being dissed or totally ignored - they are mostly based on experience and try to offer “best practice” advice. Just because I’m one of those pesky Limeys does not mean I am totally ignorant of product mostly aimed at the US market. They have their fans over here too. OK, rant over back to the plot.

Who are you referring to? If you are referring to me I am a complete dummy with this stuff. I read your post however, much of it is greek to me… As I stated, I contacted Bachmann and they told me the part number I needed. I ordered 3. TOC (Dave Goodson) suggested I contact NWSL and order the parts from them. I did that as well and ordered 3. I’ve asked TOC to do the installation. He’s agreed.

I also asked Bachmann (Ruth) why the replacement gears are plastic and not brass and she stated, “cost”. She did state that the replacement gear is more robust and I should not have any problems with it. TOC mentioned that the NWSL gear is machined Delrin, not cast plastic and has never had a NWSL one go bad.

Good move, Timmy. Contacting Dave Goodson was a good way to solve your gear problems. He probably knows more about Bachmann equipment, than Bachmann itself…!!!

It’s good to see that Dave is still available for those that choose not to try repairing their own equipment, although the learning experience is very worthwhile.

(I gather that your name is “Timmy”, or Tim)

Fred mills