I recently purchased a used B’mann Porter. After rewiring it and cleaning it up, it runs fine, for about 10 minutes. You see, the drive wheels are losing their plating and ‘foul’ really bad. The right side fouls worse than the left (due to polarity?). The loco will stutter, and will need a push to get going if I stop it. It is fine again after cleaning the wheels. I clean the track (B’mann steel track indoors) regularly. My other locos do not require this constant cleaning. What should I do?
Very frustrating & we’ve all been there, Joe, I’m sure. Some ideas you might consider:
Add a tender with pickups to loco motor? Replate the drivers? (Quick and easy plating kits are available at MicroMark) Replace the drivers? Especially if a previous owner has just plain overcleaned them, with a file maybe, to the point where the nickel plating has gone. Add LGB pickups between the drivers? Add weight to the loco? Maybe easiest - rub graphite on the wheeltreads and flanges. Oh, and on the running surface of your track as well. Graphite from a graphite stick - about $1.00 - at your artists’ supply store. Causes dust - the main component of grunge - to slide off the rail. Others recommend Wahl Hairclipper Oil for this. Never used it myself, wasn’t available here until recently, tho’ a very thin coating of 3in1 oil did help me with an HO loco like this back in the seventies… Report back on your efforts! Have you worn the plating off the B/mann tintrack yet? I have on some of mine, but it doesn’t seem to be much of a problem.
Other ideas, anyone?
John,
I just ordered a nickel plating kit from Caswell Plating (http://www.caswellplating.com/plug-n-plate-brush-plating-kits.html) so when it arrives I let you know how I make out re-plating the drivers.
Make this one your pilot battery project.
Did I say that outloud? 
Joe, I have a spare set of porter drivers and axles from a project, you are welcome to if you want them
Joe Zullo said:
John,I just ordered a nickel plating kit from Caswell Plating (http://www.caswellplating.com/plug-n-plate-brush-plating-kits.html) so when it arrives I let you know how I make out re-plating the drivers.
Well, now, I would be interested in how well that works for you. I have a Lionel 0-6-0 that could use similar treatment, and now Shawn offers you a set of drivers. That’s pretty cool.
Shawn,
Email sent. Thank you.
Joe-
I second the request for you reporting the how-to and your successes in plating drivers using the Caswell Plating kit. I have several locos I have supplemented the wheel power contact by using LGB ball-bearing wheel sets (electrical contacts inherent in each axle) in a tender that is connected to the loco. They work. However, having the problem remedied with a home plating job would be a real advantage.
Thanks for the input.
Wendell
I have my used Porter apart now, bashing it. The pickups under the axles were filthy. The connecting pin (left to right side axle @ the drive gear) was broken off. I’d second the suggestion of pickups in a trailing car or tender. I plan to add a tender with pickups to the Reading Camelback I am bashing with the Porter.
Wendell Hanks said:
Joe- I second the request for you reporting the how-to and your successes in plating drivers using the Caswell Plating kit. I have several locos I have supplemented the wheel power contact by using LGB ball-bearing wheel sets (electrical contacts inherent in each axle) in a tender that is connected to the loco. They work. However, having the problem remedied with a home plating job would be a real advantage. Thanks for the input. Wendell
Now that the holidays are over and my gondola challenge build is done, I can report on the Caswell nickle plating kit.
- It is very simple to use. I am impressed with it.
- Brush plating worked but is thin, after a couple of days of use it was wearing off.
- I next tried immersion plating and it works much better.
- I plan to replate the drivers using immersion again for a longer period of time to increase the thickness of the plating. I will try 15 mins per driver.
Joe-
Thanks for report. The immersion process appears to be the best solution (pun). What size limitations are there for plating. I have small auto parts that could use a replate.
Thanks,
Wendell
I would imagine the size of parts you can plate is limited by the wattage of the power source and the amount of plating fluid. I believe these kits are for small parts.
I played with a really worn out set of drivers and did some immersion plating. I left each wheel in the liquid about 15 minutes.
Here are the wheels after being cleaned and degreased in acetone…
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/sparkyjoe/_forumfiles/IMG_5180-worked-Small.jpg)
Here is the first wheel out of the solution before buffing with an un processed wheel for comparison…
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/sparkyjoe/_forumfiles/IMG_5181-worked-Small.jpg)
And here are the drivers all buffed and reassembled. It made a BIG difference!..
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/sparkyjoe/_forumfiles/IMG_5182-worked-Small.jpg)
Excellent! Thanks for the photos. The Caswell site shows a number of plating units - at varied prices. Which unit do you own? Based on your general use at this point, any reason to have ordered a different model – more power? Same? Appreciate your opinion. Wendell
Wendell Hanks said:
Excellent! Thanks for the photos. The Caswell site shows a number of plating units - at varied prices. Which unit do you own? Based on your general use at this point, any reason to have ordered a different model – more power? Same? Appreciate your opinion. Wendell
Wendell,
I ordered the Plug 'N Plate nickel kit. For my purposes (very small RR parts) it is perfect and reasonably priced.
http://www.caswellplating.com/plug-n-plate-brush-plating-kits/plug-n-plate-nickel-kit.html
I have a six inch grinder with a very fine grain wheel on one side and a wire wheel brush, very fine (wire size .004"). This has proven to be a wonder in cleaning wheels and many of the things I make.
One observation, the copper coating I see is an ideal plating base.
I turn my Bachmann wheels and often cut through the copper layer. These wheels have lasted many years without problems, that being said, until stainless steel track arrived. Then the problems start, so I recommend my wheels with stainless steel tires. No problems.
This is a very interesting topic.
Barry
Barry could you talk a little more about the unique problems on “bare metal” wheels on stainless track? Is it something more than faster wear?
Thanks, Greg
Greg,
The wear is fast, bare metal alloy on stainless. But I believe the tires I have now are of harder material than the track (they were made in a shop who specialized in machining dental tools).
When I find a customer with SS track I recommend the SS wheels. One style is 36" C-16 style brass center and the other is a 2" Bachmann wheel with a raised counterweight thickness. The C-16 wheel is 1 3/4" in dia.
Barry
Do you have them for the USAT docksider? I seem to remember you commenting on this on another forum.
Greg
Greg,
Sorry, I have brass and stainless wheels in 1 3/4" C-16 and 2" Bachmann (remastered).
My comments were the quickness that the docksider lost the wheel profile.
Barry