Anytime I’ve tried to spray paint Bachmann plastic, the plastic literally repels the paint which beads up.
So now we have paint made especially for plastic.
Thursday I used white plastic primer to paint a combine roof. Primer dries to touch in 5 minutes and can be painted over in one hour.
The primer went on nice and smooth. No beading up of the paint.
Friday, 24 hours later I spray the topcoat to the trim(windows in the roof). Which also has one hour repaint.
It is now Saturday. I mask off the trim. Get one piece of tape I need to adjust.
Pull it off and the paint comes with it. All the way down to the blue Bachmann plastic.
Ralph
Talk to Mike Williams.
He repaints Bachmann all the time.
It might have the mold release still on it. Try washing it real good.
Ken Brunt said:The black roof was already faded from the sun. It has been outdoors through several good rains. I hand washed it real well before painting, no soap or detergent. I usually hand paint the Bachmann stuff since I only have this problem when using spray paint. I was hoping the "plastic" paint would solve the problem. Ralph
It might have the mold release still on it. Try washing it real good.
And you wonder why I call you “Black Cloud”…
I’ve painted dozens of Bachmann cars, both kits and ready to run stuff and never had a problem with it. Most of them have been with Krylon “Red Primer”.
Additionally what type of masking tape do you use? The good quality blue is the best. The tan colored cheapy stuff does have a tendency to pull paint off. For paint I use Bondo primer available in 3 colors and Krylon paint (not the Fusion crap) almost exclusively. I’ve repainted lokies and at least 50+ Bachmann cars.
(http://lscdata.com/users/richard_smith/2009/POC5-2009Jul13-17-SlightAbove3Q-Web.JPG)
This is the latest Bachmann repaint. Applied right over the old paint, Bondo and Krylon.
(http://lscdata.com/users/richard_smith/2009/POC5_4-4-0_OrigPaint-2009Jul6-05-Web.JPG)
This how the engine looked originally.
Ken Brunt said::lol: I thought about signing the last reply "Black Cloud"
And you wonder why I call you "Black Cloud".....................;)
Richard,
I use the blue 3M tape.
Your engine looks great.
The problem is with the roofs of the Big Hauler line, as well as some of the Buddy L stuff.
The coach bodies as well as boxcar bodies I don’t have the “beading paint” problem.
I’ve used nearly every brand of paint I can think of, except Krylon. Around here you can find the Krylon Fusion,
but not the regular paint.
Ralph
Since the discussion is about Bachmann. I just bought a “used” Bachmann Shay. Since it’s a mining railroad the lumber decal needs to come off. What do I use to strip it?
Try a cleaner called “Super Clean.” You can probably find it at your local auto parts store. If you’re just trying to remove the lettering on the side, and don’t want to disassemble everything, then just saturate some cotton balls with the cleaner, and let them sit on top of the lettering for around 10 minutes. After that, the lettering should come off with just a little rubbing.
Ralph, you are simply cursed. I’ve been repainting Bachmann with Krylon paints since Bachmann first came out with trains. (That yellow flat car NEEDED new paint!) Never had an issue. Always use a primer first. I’ve not heard anything good about the Fusion paints, though, so stay away from them. I’ve heard mixed reviews of the “new” formula on the regular line of Krylon paints, but my most recent projects have done just fine with it.
Later,
K
All,
Keep in mind that all the paint manufacturers are trying to reformulate their paint lines to comply with regulations on reducing VOC (Volitile Organic Compounds).
Bob C.
I’ve had pretty good luck using Wally World cheep .97 a can red oxide spray paint on Bachmann products but W-W stopped carrying it at least here in Lost Wages. BUMMER
Kevin Strong said:
Ralph, you are simply cursed. I've been repainting Bachmann with Krylon paints since Bachmann first came out with trains. (That yellow flat car NEEDED new paint!) Never had an issue. Always use a primer first. I've not heard anything good about the Fusion paints, though, so stay away from them. I've heard mixed reviews of the "new" formula on the regular line of Krylon paints, but my most recent projects have done just fine with it.Later,
K
Cursed, or it must be the paint I’m using.
Time to find some Krylon primer.
Ralph
Ralph,
Could you be putting too much paint or primer on at one time? Are you allowing each coat to bond with the plastic? I would certainly scrub with soap and water. I just put them in the dishwasher and run the cycle with dishwasher soap. Dry good and then never paint until the next day. Sorry, you are having trouble.
Ric Golding said:
Ralph,Could you be putting too much paint or primer on at one time? Are you allowing each coat to bond with the plastic? I would certainly scrub with soap and water. I just put them in the dishwasher and run the cycle with dishwasher soap. Dry good and then never paint until the next day. Sorry, you are having trouble.
Ric,
The paint reacts like oil & water. It will draw up in several circular patterns, well before I finish even a light coat.
The plastic primer didn’t do this, but didn’t stick either.
I guess since I’m the only one having this problem, it may be the paint I use. I’ve been using Rust Oleum enamel
and Fixall enamel. Same problem with both on 8 or more cars I’ve painted.
Since the stores around here stock the Krylon Fusion and the textured Krylon, I’m sure they can order me some primer.
I’ve used the Fusion on some trucks. It sticks well but is very thick paint. Even with a light, non covering coat it will hide details.
Ralph
Ralph,
I’ve had mixed results with Rust Oleum. I used it a couple of times when I couldn’t find a color I wanted in Krylon. In each case it took several days to dry and was still tacky after 3 days. This is the problem with many brands of paint and I think it is because they are very temperature/weather sensitive to apply. Krylon goes on in a wide range of conditions and the nozzles allow for easy misting and lighter coats which is much better for models.
Ironically paints made especially for plastics don’t seem to do as good a job or stick nearly as well as the others. Fusion is a case in point.
I mention Bondo primer that I use because Krylon’s primer isn’t stocked by anyone around here. I’ve found it to be just as good as Krylon primer and fully compatible with Krylon paint (except Fusion which doesn’t adhere to any primer well). I’m not trying to “sell” you on Bondo but rather mention it in case you can’t get the Krylon. It is sold in auto stores and some hardware stores. I get mine in the local True Value Hardware.
Thanks Richard.
The Bondo primer gives me another choice if I can’t find the Krylon primer.
Ralph
Would it be possible to scuff the surface with a 600 grit or higher paper? The cleanliness is of course key, but if the surface is too smooth, it sometimes can be difficult for the paint to actually ‘grab’ a surface. Light coats that don’t even cover spaced an hour apart can be a good way to solve this. two or three a day at most. I would also recommend a primer that is used for auto repair or touch up, like you would find in Autozone or the like. Very durable, those primers.
Aerosol cans have so much thinner in them that the curing process will leave the outside seemingly hardened but, in the instance of laquers in particular, it can take weeks for it to completely cure. This is why it remains sticky, or even though it feels dry to the touch, a fingerprint will remain in a newly painted surface as much as a week later.
I learned all of these lessons the hard way, building custom guitars, which is an entirely different set of stories probably best left alone…
Ralph Berg said:I've just started painting Bachmann stuff using Rust-oleum and Krylon sprays and had just a bit of the paint beading problem - over factory paint. Haven't tried bare plastic yet but will be doing several of the car kits.
Anytime I've tried to spray paint Bachmann plastic, the plastic literally repels the paint which beads up. So now we have paint made especially for plastic. Thursday I used white plastic primer to paint a combine roof. Primer dries to touch in 5 minutes and can be painted over in one hour. The primer went on nice and smooth. No beading up of the paint. Friday, 24 hours later I spray the topcoat to the trim(windows in the roof). Which also has one hour repaint. It is now Saturday. I mask off the trim. Get one piece of tape I need to adjust. Pull it off and the paint comes with it. All the way down to the blue Bachmann plastic. Ralph
Had beading in odd spots on underframes for V&T passenger cars. Not overall, just several odd spots - the steps and around the bolsters.
Also on the gloss black air tanks on the PRR loco the white primer wanted to bead up.
Grey primer and then Metallic grey on boiler jacketing did just fine.
Been trying to paint green trim on V&T passenger cars with PollyScale acrylics which is a bit of a frustration in getting good coverage.
Just a thought, it sounds a bit like silicon contamination which is an absolute s**t to get rid of.No household polish or other sprays used in the vicinity?A good keying with abrasive paper is the best way.
Bunny