Large Scale Central

Bachmann Outside Frame "Connie" gearbox and motor questions

I’ve purchased a slightly used 2-8-0 that was on display. Test runs on DC showed no noise or gear problems. I took it all apart to remove the wiring for DCC in the tender, tightened all the screws in the gearbox and motor mounts, rewired and installed the decoder and speaker. Testing showed that at no load on the bench the motor would turn the drivers at speed step 2 or 3. H’mm, a little low, but after programming sounds and momentum, I took it out for a test drive.

With no cars connected it was a real speed demon. Adding cars (4) (Accucraft) slowed it down to a crawl with little power to make it up the grades. I was not impressed with the design of the motor gearbox assembly, and it seems to have a lack of power or too low gearing.

So my question is, does anyone offer a replacement motor and or gearbox? Or is there someone like R&K Railroad Products (who offers a K-27 re-gearing solution) who has a product or solution for the Bachmann X frame 2-8-0?

Thanks for your help.

Pete in CO

Hi Pete - Welcome to LSC. Something may be wrong with your programming or your 2-8-0. The Connie is geared nicely. Mine will run at a crawl if I want it to and even with quite a bit of voltage it’s not a rocket. I presently run it only on track power but it’s scheduled into the electrical shop to add support for trail car battery-R/C.

Pete,

I also have a Bachmann Connie that I purchased NEW in early 2007. I was already aware of the mpotor and gear problems with the Connie’s when I bought it. BTW, my engine was run for less than an hour and had three gears broken even then. There are a number of solutions you have to make this locomotive a great workhorse. I purchased a NEW gearbox from Barry Olson of Barry’s Big Trains (many on this forum have done the same). Now it is a very smooth, powerful and slow runner. You can also get new brass gears as replacements for the plastic gears in your loco now. Believe me, the gears in your Connie WILL fail. Not IF, but WHEN!

Barry posts here and he will probably chime in with some info for you. He has recently retired. But I understand he still has drives for the Connie and will still have a warranty on those drives already purchased.

The stock motor in the 2-8-0 (and many early Bachmann locos) is lethargic at best. On the level and on mild grades, it’s pretty good. Mine ran just fine for me for 7 years before the plastic main gear split. Get it on any kind of a serious grade (3% or greater) and the loco becomes erratic. My dad’s got one on his railroad that with Airwire on speed step 1 (and start voltage at 0) will take off like a rocket down the grade (4% with 5-car train), but you’ve got to set the throttle to about halfway to get it to move up the hill.

The “ideal” solution–as others have stated–is to get a Barry’s Big Trains motor/gearbox. Barry’s semi-retired (i.e., not advertising anymore) but still turns out the odd product for those who are interested. I’ve got one in my 2-8-0 that I installed after my drive gear broke, and it’s an excellent runner now. It definitely has more “oomph” to get over twigs and other things that would otherwise have bogged the stock gearbox down. But with a large Pittman motor, it had doggone better. (I haven’t had opportunity to try it on 4% grades beyond my test track–gotta do that at some point.)

You can get replacement motors for the gearbox. There’s a guy out of Phoenix selling some on ebay for around $11. They look all the world like the stock motor, but he says they’re an upgrade. I’ve not played with them, but was turned onto them when looking for replacement motors myself. NorthWest Short Line also sells replacement motor, though they’re rated at 12 volts. They’re a bit pricier at around $35 - $40. I can’t say for sure whether they’re a drop-in replacement or not. I’ve got some older Sagami can motors here that are drop-in replacements, but are no longer made. They appear nearly identical to the ones NWSL sells, but I can’t tell exactly from the photos. I put one of the Sagami motors in my 2-6-0, and it was instantly a better, smoother, stronger runner.

I’m in Centennial, so if you’re up for a little experimentation, I’m sending you an e-mail.

Later,

K

OK maybe my experience isn’t typical. It has been a long time since she has been run on a grade - my memory could be fading (you think?) :slight_smile:

Mine does the same thing as yours, Jon. I just put new batteries in it this week and had it out yesterday running, and even with no cars on it, it runs like you describe.

I was surprised to read that your Connie runs like a jack rabbit. The nicest feature in the Connies I’ve had is the extremely nice crawl they would do.

In fact one of the measures I insisted on was to equal the Connies slow movement in my drive, and I did.

Have to do a short run soon on new Connie motor and gearbox kits.

Also thinking about a “Super” drive using a Pittman 9000 series motor, a bit more money but that would really be a horse.

Barry Olsen
6822 W. Villa St.
Phoenix, AZ 85043

623-936-6088

Mine acts like something is binding, but darned if I can figure out what. I should take it down to just the drivetrain and see what I can see.

When mine was acting squirrelly it was because of an intermittent short caused by the brake rigging coming close to the flanges… once the brake stuff fell off It was fine

If you’ve ever taken it apart, take a look at the sand lines coming down… Sometimes they don’t go back quite right and will bind on the drivers.

Thanks to everyone who has replied with suggestions. I have ordered a new set of gears from Bachmann (all of them), as the main axel gear is starting to split. I have found that the brake hanger cross bars will short the front and rear flanged drivers if they are suspended. The sand lines are a pain to get into the right holes. I removed the motor filter board and I am in the process of rewiring to make the connections more robust. Hopefully with Kevin’s local help I’ll get it going.
Thanks again to all.

Pete in CO