David,
About having a layout as nice as Ken’s. I have seen several photos posted here and his layout is NICE!
Bob C.
Yea, I heard that chatter too, plus all the stuff about the drive ratio, so that’s basically why I put off buying one. I knew Barry was working on a new drive, but Rodney’s solution appeared more practical to me, not to mention, cheaper.
Well, like I said Bob, that’s a problem I’m having with the volume control, and it’s probably just a matter of replacing it. It’s very likely you won’t have the same problem. It’s a
micro SPDT center off switch that’s the likely culprit.
I looked very long and hard at putting the magnets and reed switch on one of the drivers, but, to me, looked like more trouble then it was worth. Since the tender axles are about half the size of the drivers, 2 magnets there instead of having 4 on one of the drivers, worked out well in my case.
And if your going place your RC/bat and sound card in the tender, there are weights in the tender that you’ll have to remove in order to fit that in there, so you could use that weight in the boiler.
And thanks for the comments about the layout. Much appreciated.
Do you still need one?
(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-3343-1327780867146.jpg)
Terry,
Email sent.
Bob C.
Tony, thanks for your response. I am just now getting back tho this thread, being as I finally completed the repair on the K-27. Now on to the repair. A huge thanks goes out to Terry Burr. In his infinite wisdom he chose to mothball his small power circuit board when he modded his K-27. I negotiated a good deal with him, so here we go. I didn’t bother to take any pictures during the dis-assembly, I figured most have already been there or used the process Rodney Eddington has on his website. I did. The first two photos below are of the board I remove showing the severity of the burned trace.
The power wiring to the motor and the pickup wiring from the wheel sets is a bit longer than the chuff sensor wiring so I was able to utilize this to make soldering the connections easier. The photo below shows how I temporarily mounted the board offset on the outboard screws and made the power wiring connections.
This next photo shows the board relocated to it’s proper location under the flywheel, where access to solder the power leads would have been difficult at best. Here the chuff sensors have also been connected to the board.
These last few shots are of how I added some wire control to try to keep things from getting pinched. A conversation with Dave Goodson instigated this part of the repair. The first shot is of the area near where the chuff sensor wiring comes up into the boiler section just ahead of the weights. Ken’s engine above must have been a newer version as he as extra weight i don’t.
This next shows a cobbled up attachment to keep the wire bundle tight to the motor mount area to keep it from sneaking out during re-assembly. I personally don’t care for the masking tape Bachmann used.
And the last shot is of the finished area at the circuit board.
I hope this will be of some use to others. I was a bit hesitant to open this fine loco up and do surgery on her, but it all turned out well. Again, Thanks to one and all that provided input either directly in this thread, or through the many other threads I have read and learned from here on LSC. Bob C.
Hi Bob. It looks like your picture links are missing the .com in teh URL [code]
(http://www.gscalejunkie/GeneralPics/K27CircuitBoardFix/CharredBoard01.JPG)
[/code] Does not work, but [code]
(http://www.gscalejunkie.com/GeneralPics/K27CircuitBoardFix/CharredBoard01.JPG)
[/code] Does, but the pictures are huge…
(http://www.gscalejunkie.com/GeneralPics/K27CircuitBoardFix/CharredBoard01.JPG)
I see you figured out the problem Jon.
I didn’t notice the .com was missing.
Ralph
Thanks Jon.
Must be that forest and trees thing. Shudda knowed that.
I thought somewhere is says 800 x 600. Thought that is what I did. I will check that again.
OOPS Didn’t re-size the first two. Got it now.
Bob c.
Bob Cope said:
I hope this will be of some use to others. I was a bit hesitant to open this fine loco up and do surgery on her, but it all turned out well. Again, Thanks to one and all that provided input either directly in this thread, or through the many other threads I have read and learned from here on LSC. Bob C.
That was one of the main reasons I took pix of the gear box installed. I figured I was probably among some of the first ones to use it and having pix of what it looked like up close and personal would help any others who decided to go that route. Glad to hear my efforts didn’t go to waste and that you’re that much closer to having a fully functional locomotive again. One other thing I did while I had it apart was to get rid of those hokey looking red class lites on the front and replaced then with white LEDs. Ralph Berg steered me to a site that sold the ones I needed for about $10 for a hundred of them. Since I didn’t need that many I gave half of them to Ralph for his help. I also installed a rear headlite on the tender.
Bob Cope said:
Thanks Jon. Must be that forest and trees thing. Shudda knowed that. I thought somewhere is says 800 x 600. Thought that is what I did. I will check that again. OOPS Didn’t re-size the first two. Got it now. Bob c.
No problem Bob ! I think you still have a small problem with the first two. They are both the same (CharredBoard01.JPG). Your “02” pic is much more dramatic in showing why you needed to replace the board. Ouch!!!
(http://www.gscalejunkie.com/GeneralPics/K27CircuitBoardFix/CharredBoard02.JPG)
So how come there was a blob of solder across B & C at TQ1? Perhaps that was the cause?
Could be.
I don’t see the “blob” on the replacement board.
Ralph
Tony and Ralph,
The ‘blob’ is most likely the shaky had of the technician (NOT) doing the dis-assembly work. If I had notices it then I most likely would have ignored it anyway as the board it toast. I seriously doubt a short there would have caused the charring in the power circuit. TQ1 andTQ2 are the chuff sensor wires from the cylinders in the front of the engine. The blob is not on the replacement board due to me getting my stability back at handling a soldering iron (something I haven’t done in quite some time).
We never were able to determine the root cause, most likely a short on a derailment. I am just real happy that the damage was contained to that board and did not go elsewhere as well. I am glad to state she is back up and running and all functionality seems to be there.
Thanks again for everyone’s assistance, both with the electrical issues and the posting.
Bob C.
That blob is on the IR side. It would not have caused the PC trace to burn like that.
It looks like it was a dead short somewhere between the tender wheels and the drivers pickups. Possibly the engineer side of the tender wheels somehow came in contact with the fireman side rail and shorted.
Glad to see you have it fixed now Bob.
Rodney
Thanks Rodney, your dis-assembly instructions helped a good bit.
Unfortunately I was not in the immediate vicinity when the magic smoke got out, and the club member who removed the loco from the track was not sure what the position was, so…
Next up, tackling the installation of the PB11 sound card.
Bob C.
What radio system are you gona use??? I don’t like the P-11 wire connectors unless they changed them since I used used them. All I use now are the P-8’s After loosing some magnets off of the drivers, here is what I do to for the magnets for the chuff on the rear driver. I drill hole just deep enough for the magnet and use emblem glue to glue them in.
Rodney,
Radio system is not cast in stone yet, but it will most likely be the Revolution. The club has standardized on that system, and it is by and large the most popular system as far as I can tell from posts on the fora and articles in GR.
Thanks for the tip on the magnets. I only have a drill press at this time, so I am not sure how well I would be able to quarter the magnets. At least with surface mount and adhesive, if they are too far out I can adjust them. Down the road some.
Bob C
Drill press with a vise will work fine. I just quarter them by eye and there are pretty close. Start with a hole with one of the crank pins straight up,
then the other pin straight up, then the first pin straight down, then the other down.
Thanks Rodney. By the By, what magnets do you use and where do you get them. I sourced the ones Kevin used once, but have lost the link.
Bob C.
I get them from Phoenix. Radio shack has some also but just a tad larger. I use them when I’m out and need some