Wondering if these can be subbed for one another?
Is either one more reliable?
Someone on the B’mann board has some springs busted on one side.
Asking for between 4 and 8.
Is there a source for just the springs alone?
Thanks.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Well, they are the standard Large Scale coupler, so they are compatible with each other. I would imagine that they can be substituted for one another, USAT, Aristo, Bachmann and LGB. I’ve never tried it, though. John Le Forestier uses them, so I would ask him.
I’m not sure what other quirks he has… 
The LGB ones are noticeably thicker/springier. I have “swapped” them before without any problem. I have never seen the springs available by themselves but every LGB piece of rolling stock comes with an extra spring and hook taped to the inside of the box.
I have a bunch of the Bachmann hook&loop - not sure about the springs, but if you need springs, I’ll look and see if I have those too. I should, I never throw anything away (according to SWMBO)
checked - I have 11 couplers with the springs and 2 more without. you are welcome to them. Send me your address offline and I can get them in the mail.
Honestly, LGB & USA’s couplers are better than the current crop from Bachmann. My kid’s couplers were gon from their Thomas sets within days of christmas. I opened ALL my unopened USA & LGB cars to salvage the couplers from them, and found LGB the best with USA a very close second. Aristo’s are good, but not in the same league as the first two, but I’d have to say they were still better quality than the bachmanns.
Hello
I use hook and loops on all my stuff since they are cheap and they work. I find the plastic spring on the LGB ones are thicker than the Bachmann ones and they do keep their spring longer. Aristocraft hook and loops have a metal spring which really holds the hook well BUT don’t leave this type outdoors because it will rust away.
For shear strength and holding power go with the Aristo.
For dependablility go with the LGB or USAT
and if in a pinch use the Bachmanns but over time they will not be as tight and lose the springy strength.
Happy RRing
Thanks to all for your help and advice.
Steve, I’m sending the person needing the springs your way. Thanks for your generosity.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
free advice, and worth every penny… use hooks on both ends of the cars for (more) trouble free service and mount half a credit card on a stick for an easy peasy manual uncoupler
As for the B’mann H&Ls, not only are the springs more brittle/fragile but so are the loops. I had trouble with a car staying coupled after a crash… Turns out the loop looked ok, but was cracked/broken right dead center… (At least it was a cheap 2 minute fix! :D) Anyway, if all you have is B’mann, they’ll work for a while, so run em. Just keep your eye out for spares or replacements (and as always, free is a nice price!)
All these guys are right on with their comments about the better LGB springs - the B’mann springs are definitely a weak point. I find that the Aristo H&L gladhands hang too low; they drag over crossings and closure rails at switches, and I have in the past cut them right off. The two ‘teeth’ molded into the bottom of AristoCraft loops, and intended to keep the hook centered, are also problematic; they can wrench a car right off the tracks at an “S” bend or crossover, and I shave them off entirely as well. Nowadays I only have a few Aristo loops here and there and none of their hooks.
What Mik says about having hooks at both ends is also true, but I don’t follow that practice and I’ve gotten away with it. I make sure to use cars equipped with hooks both ends for continuous, hassle-free running at shows, where the track may be set up on less than ideal surfaces and where for the benefit of youngsters I want the train to stay together for sure. On double-hooked cars, The credit card gizmo works great, BTW. I use a thin plastic spatula given me by a fellow clubmember myself. All the same, on my own backyard pike and switching layout I stay with the polarized cars - a hook on one end only - because a single uncoupler ramp will operate the polarized ones and because novice operators can manage these couplers with their fingers alone. Your trackwork has to be pretty good to get away with the single hook, though, and I can say this practice hasn’t caused me any trouble. Like other writers here, I prefer the tougher and more durable LGB springs.
I chose hook and loop couplers for their reliability and ease of operation for novice operators. Oh, and all the readily-available knuckles at the time seemed grossly oversize and had a tendency to sag… The knuckle coupler situation has improved somewhat since then, BTW, but I’m very happy with my H&L’s.
Credit cards on sticks, spatulas? you guys are high tech I use a popsicle stick!
I used to remove the hook from one end of my cars too but after a run away caused by a failed hook and crooked track I now use one at both ends. Also when I put in a WYE I was finding myself on occasion trying to couple up 2 loops.
True with the aristocraft ones they tend to drag especially when going over Aristo switches, go figure so trimming is usually needed. I did recently purchase a few of the 20’ cars and fro some reason they didn’t hang up on anything??
Attaching H&K’s to some locomotives can be difficult though. I have a few Bachmann engines where I had to get creative.
I’m with you John “I’m very happy with my H&L’s”
I know, Todd, all this is mighty fancy-schmancy, isn’t it?
I use a popsicle stick too, but only in desperation from time to time now, especially since I got my prize spatula! 'Course, these gadgets are only necessary where you have two hooks. With one, a finger will do the job very nicely. I don’t generally reverse my cars, so twinned loops are not a problem around the Old Late and Slow. I do try to put a hook on both ends of any loco that will see switching service or be turned end for end.
As for credit cards on a stick, or spatulas , once you’ve used a tool with a long handle, it’s mighty hard to go back to popsicle sticks. You see, the high tech handle on a spatula or the stick on a credit card allows your hand very comfortably to manoeuvre above the car roof, and the width of the spatula or the credit card can be employed with a simple twist to separate the cars.
Well, you will see, once you’ve tried it! Cheers! 
No other known quirks. Honest, Steve…
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/choochoo_chaboogie/_forumfiles/idiotselfsm.GIF)
John Le Forestier said:
No other known quirks. Honest, Steve…(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/choochoo_chaboogie/_forumfiles/idiotselfsm.GIF)
:lol: 
“When a man speaks of his honesty, make him pay cash, and in small, unmarked bills.” Lazurus Long, ca. 2341 Stated with tongue firmly inserted in my cheek. :lol:
Hook 'n Loops Aristocraft, both ends, and if no corner tapping on R1 curve, I cut the shank(?) back to the line, then using the inside screw hole to mount on the car. This ‘sucks’ the cars together at least 1/2" giving the train a seemingly more realistic spacing appearance.
And while cutting the shank back, also the bottom curve of the bottom release lever parallel to the track so not to hangup anywheres just in case the metal wheel upgrade lowers them down a little too close to switch caps etc. down the track centreline.
Also when weathering, spray on a combo of modelflex rust and dirt which slows down the rivet counters a bit . . . . . I don’t chase/railfan couplers but the trains themselves. imho 
For releasing the couplers I pick up some of those vinyl siding (shades of brown) samples cut them down to scale 4 x 8 and leave them around the r/w, where i think may require … they can be scrap 4x8 sheets littering the landscape. They tend to get naturally weathered over the yrs …
doug c
LGB sells the springs in a pack of 8. Part number 64409 In stock at Train-Li-usa.com
Bachmann has weak springs and brittle plastic hooks and loops and pins are on the weak side.
I find USA trains and LGB to be the same and USA sold me 10 sets of hooks/pins/springs for $10 last time I was there. LGB pins are stronger!!
Aristo has a different mounting system and only really work well on Aristo cars. These are held in place by a screw only, USA, Bachmann, and LGB have a plastic interlocking tab and have no pull on the screws.
PS, Train-Li just came out with a very narrow Hook and loop setup.
I feel dumb asking, but how do you install the springs? I normally use Kadees but I have to install a hook and loop.