Large Scale Central

Bachmann F Scale Coupler Height?

Modeling Rolling stock
#1

I’m confused about the coupler heights on the new Bachmann F Scale cars matching to their F scale locomotives. I know that the cars come with extra offset height couplers, and the locomotives have two coupler height settings. What confuses me is I can’t get the Bachmann products to match up. For example. here’s my Dizzie coupled to an EBT 2-Bay hopper. The hopper has it’s coupler set at the factory height. On the Dizzy, I tried reversing the coupler pocket to put the coupler at the ‘high’ setting, but it was way too high for the hopper. At the low setting, the coupler droops well below the hopper coupler. With a rubber band attached I can hold the “low” set coupler up and couple with the hopper. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/new-cars3-1024.JPG]

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] Does the Dizzie (and the Connie for that matter) need to be modified to correct this mis-match? If so, any tips? Thanks - Jon

#2

Just curious Jon, why would you expect Bachmann to have their couplers at the same height? Isn’t that expecting too much?

#3

The coupler on the 2-8-0 and their new super detailed 80 dollar box car don’t match up, either.
Whad yuh expec from backman??
jb

#4

The couplers on the “older” 1:20 stuff (pre rolling stock and K-27) mate up with all Bachmann’s 1:22.5 stuff. The couplers on the 1:20.3 rolling stock and the K-27 are set to the “new” height, which matches up with couplers on the Accucraft stuff. Bachmann includes “adaptor” couplers that lower the heights for the 1:20 stuff to mate with the older stuff.

Later,

K

#5

To me, the real question is, which height is the correct one?

#6

Solution again is:…convert over to the Kadee “G” sized coupler which works very well on both applications. Just follow the instructions and purchase the proper KD to do the job.
The bonus is that they work well and look far better than the B’mann crap couplers.

#7

Silly me, I thought that the “high” setting on the locomotives would match the new height. I’ll experiment, but I think the drop-offset on the new cars is going to put the coupler on the car too low for the loco.

Fred, I’m sorry but I am just not a Kadee fan. I like the look of the smaller couplers, but even with the “G” couplers, try as I might, I just can’t get the hang of screwdriver uncoupling. I fumble with it every time I operate on your pike and on Ric’s Timesaver. And I don’t see any value in the magnet uncoupling on an outdoor layout, I rarely uncouple in the same place every time.

I’ve been standardizing on Aristo Delton couplers which work very well for me. Lifting the pin to uncouple (like the prototype) is easy from underneath by putting a 90 degree bend in the end of a screwdriver. The Bachmanm and USA stock couplers will mate with them with a little persuasion :slight_smile:

#8

Jon,

Latest issue of GR has a modification to the Kadee gauge to fit the 1:20.3 scale. It is basically a shim of brass added to the Kadee Gauge. You could make you own with a waste of an old Bachmann coupler and mount it on a scrap of wood cut to the proper height.

I think what you are seeing at Bachmann is a move toward proper scale heights. Of course, that could be wishful thinking.

#9

Thanks Ric - Good idea.

I understand the move to have the new F Scale stock compatible with other brands, and including the adapter couplers to get back to their legacy height is a nice touch. I just don’t get what the “high” setting on the newer locomotives (Dizzie, Connie) was supposed to be for. If it didn’t match the existing F scale stuff (Accucraft etc.) then what does it match?

#10

Narrow gauge railways had a wide variety of coupler heights. A few years back The NMRA Large Scale working Group suggested the Kadee G coupler height as a workable standard. The Kadee G scale coupler is very close to a full size coupler in 1:20 and the kadee 1 scale coupler close to a 3/4 size.

All new Bachmann 1:20 scale products developed since that time have been bujilt to the Kadee G coupler height. Hopefully this will continue into the future.

For older equipment their will remain the mismatch.

Stan

#11

I just use the KD gauge unmodified.
Why change the height for a few backman cars?
Everything I own gets the KD coupler and gauge treatment.
Even if it means shimming or machining.
That’s half the phun of modeling.
All the cars hook to each other, and never a problem.
Keep your track level, and they won’t lift out of each other.
Oh, and they are all body mounted, even the lokies and tenders, dismal and steam.
I have an 18" ignition screwdriver, flat blade, for perfect uncoupling every time.
Just my way of doing things…

jb

#12

I temporarily installed a couple of the drop-height couplers today. They do fix the height to match the old 1:22.5 cars, but then you need to also change the lift bar chains. I didn’t bother with the chains as I’ll probably fix the locos to the new height, then put back the original couplers and chains.

John - If I were going to mix scales within a train, I’d agree, but I’m shooting for complete train or two in 1:20.3. I’ll still run the oddball 1:24 / 1:22 and 1:29 scale stuff together and leave their couplers at the original height. The end result on my railroad will be that the 1:20 stuff will only couple to other 1:20 stuff. And that’s just fine with me.

#13

I took the next step and worked on getting the Connie’s tender coupler to match the stock level of the new cars. A quick check of the Connie’s “high mount” coupler proved that it too did not match the new cars, so some modifications were in order. I had one of the new standard height couplers left from one car that I changed to a drop coupler. I tried using this straight shank coupler in the Connie’s coupler pocket and it came out pretty close, but like the Dizzie, it was still a little low and there is some downward angle to the standard coupler mount. I solved the height problem by using a razor saw to cut the mount screw stud even with the coupler platform and adding a small brass shim at the far end to correct the angle. What I ended up with is close enough for me. [color=blue]This small slice of the coupler mounting stud was removed[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/ConCoupler3-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/ConCoupler3-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [color=blue]Note the brass shim at the left end of the draft gear box. The tender floor is no where close to level with the track[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/ConCoupler2-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/ConCoupler2-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [color=blue]Final result raised and shimmed to level[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/ConCoupler1-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/ConCoupler1-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] The result is significantly closer coupling than the original Connie coupler.