I saw a post earlier by our fearless leader stating his Climax is somewhat clumsy as far as staying upon the rails.
I generated a “fix” several years ago when my Climax failed to negotiate a couple of rolls in the rail at Marshalls.
Basically, you need 3-point suspension.
Climaxes do not have that.
Experimentation showed that the rear truck needs to be “fixed” to the chassis, and the front needs to “float”.
Place loco on track. Measure and record a specific height on the chassis (top of beam, bottom of steps, NOT the coupler!).
Turn loco over.
Remove spring blocks from both sides, small screw dead center in each sideframe, pull blocks straight out the side (they are in there TIGHT!).
Remove one screw per side behind the blocks, right at the top (boiler side) of the opening.
Lift truck off and set aside.
Remove the pivot plate, one screw and washers dead center, and set aside.
See the two half-moon rubbing blocks, one per side of the pivot hole?
Those need to go away. I grind them off, flush with the framework below them. It gets REALLY messy, so think about taping up the loco or be prepared to blow it off afterwards.
When done, set the pivot plate into the truck, less the screw and washers, put the two side screws in. Set the truck assembly on the mount peg. Turn the loco over, holding the truck in place, and set on the rails.
You will need to place washers on the pivot stud, between the frame and pivot plate, to raise the level to what your previous measurement was.
You can lift the chassis slightly to insert washers from the side with long tweezers until you are satisfied.
Turn loco back over, remove pivot plate from truck, install pivot plate with screw and washers, making certain the height adjustment washers are in place.
Replace truck (fitting driveshaft together as you go), re-install spring blocks, and you’re done.
Mine now traverses trackwork on railroads it visits that can be VERY bad, with never a derailment.
TOC