Large Scale Central

Bachmann C19 Coupler

Is there a convenient way to replace a Bachmann C19 coupler with a hook and loop? I can unscrew the existing coupler but the coupler doesn’t seem to want to come off. And is there a way to lower a hook and loop to match the height of other rail cars (typically, Aristocraft and LGB cars)?

Keith Johnson


Kieth, I don’t believe the Bachmann C19 came with a hook and loop coupler. I am sure one could be adapted to the locomotive. As far as lowering the coupler to match your existing rolling stock easily, I doubt it. The C19 is a 1:20.3 scale locomotive, your rolling stock is 1:29 for the AristoCraft and 1:22.5ish for the LGB. My recommendation would be to create a ‘transition’ car that will always couple to the C19 and then to the rest of your rolling stock. Not glamorous, but functional.

As a person long ago who had a coupler problem…I chose to standardize on one common coupler for all my locomotives and rolling stock… I have never regretted it…especially after acuminating a large number of cars… Standardize, before you have too large a fleet…
I went with Kadee #1 scale body mount couplers, but you can freely make your own choice…

The coupler (draft gear) box on the C-19 tender is identical to a Kadee draft gear box. Bachman supplied a drop coupler with the C-19 that fits in the box and puts a knuckle coupler down where it will couple to their standard line stock (1.22.5).

If you are handy, you might be able to modify the droop coupler shank to a hook and loop. Another idea would be to replace the tender daft gear box with a pad that would get the coupler down where you need it. Then you should be able to attach your hook and loop.

Thanks to everyone who has responded. It looks like I will create a drop down to add a hook and loop to the right height. I do a lot of 3D printing so this looks like a nice little project.


We have a hopper that I think is a LIONEL. Its hook-and-loops sit much higher than our largely LGB rolling stock. We found wood shims of appropriate thickness, bought a couple screws that matched the diameter of the puka (hole) for the coupler mounting screws, tapped holes in the shims, screwed everything down, and added “jellybean delivery” to the Triple O’s freight services. This has worked for the relatively short trains that serve our version of Hawaii railroading of yesteryear. Had I been allowed to paint and weather this gondola for MOW service, the shims would have disappeared. Even as it is, they are hard to see.

I am not sure you want to use island engineering on an expensive locomotive, but it could be an easy and easily reversed way to make a transition car as you print a more permanent solution.