Hello All
Problem. I have a Bachmann Baldwin 2-6-6-2 , Luv it BUT I also have a long 15’ tunnel made out of concrete blocks which I built around a horseshoe curve using R2 5’ diameter curves. The Baldwin will not make this curve without derailing so I was looking and thinking what if I was to remove the flange on the inside axle from each of the drive trucks, would I be able to get around this tight curve then?
Looking at a bachmann Annie they have center drive wheels without a flange to accomadate tighter curves.
What do you guys think would it work and how could I shave down those flanges?
Thanks
Todd
On a 5’ radius curve, isn’t 15’ about a full 180 degree turn?
** Edit: DOH. You did say “horseshoe” didn’t you?
I’d check before you turn down the flanges; individuallly I’d bet those trucks would take the curve… are you sure that’s what’s hanging up?
Matthew (OV)
I’m guessing the axles on the 2-6-6-2 are sprung. If you remove the flanges from the axle, the axle will have the capability of slipping sideways off the track. If you look closely at the Annie, the center axle is raised above the track and it doesn’t slide side-to-side, so it won’t fall off the rails.
The 2-6-6-2 will fit around a 2’ radius (4’ diameter) curve stock out of the box. It’s a tight fit, but it will fit. Is there a way to get a remote camera in the tunnel (iPhone or something with a light on it) to see what the track is doing? I’m presuming it’s one of the two powered chassis that’s derailing?
Later,
K
Curves in tunnels. Not good anyway.
Why not set up a replica of the tunnel track with set track curves and check before trying anything so drastic.
When I bought this beast I sent it around the layout and the drive wheels would derail on my 5’ diameter curves and also going through a basic 4’ 12000 series switch. This Summer I eased my tight curves by removing the tighter 5’ and replaced them with 8’ and where I could the 8’ with 10’s. Things are alot smoother now but the tunnel is not so easy to change out. Before I changed out the curves I had a few spots where the 5’ curve made a 1/4 turn and the engine would derail on these. I have never sent it into the tunnel because I know it would derail and it is too big to fit through one of the access holes and too detailed to push out with my pole sander handle. LOL
I will take another look at it under controlled circumstances and setup a 5’ curve test track on the floor and watch it closely as it enters and exits the curve. I think it is the length of the 6 drive wheels truck that causes the problems on tight track and they bind then pop off the rail. My idea was to
remove the flange on the center wheels so they wouldn’t rub and bind up.
Thanks guys
A prototypical blind driver has more surface on the track, than a flanged driver. If your blind is too narrow, it will fall off the rail and derail anyway.
We have a guy in the club with curves tighter than yours and his Bachmann mallet makes them right out of the box.
Check the “side to side” play and make sure it is adequate.
Todd
Look closely at the space between the front truck and the rear truck’s cylinder cover. If your curves are tight it may hit in this area causing the front truck to derail. You may have to remove some material in this area for the trucks to track properly in these tight curves.
Stan
The test findings.
I setup a half circle of the 5’ diameter curves with a 4’ straight section at both ends and ran the loco at different speeds through the curve. I did notice that the loco slowed down a bit when it entered the curve then picked up a bit when it exited. This was barely perceptable but I did notice it. I think this was due to the tight curves fighting against the wheels. Hey it’s the same in real life right.
The test track was setup on the floor which led me to another test, what if I made the track a bit off level from side to side? With the track not being level the front drivers lifted up and derailed. With my older tracks before the curve easement program this Summer I bet the 5’ diameter trouble spots were uneven.
So the findings, This loco is cleared for use over 98% of my mainline but if this loco meets a tight not level turn it will derail. SO the BIG question is will it make it through my tight 5’ diameter curved tunnel??
Thanks again guys.
Todd
Todd said:
I have never sent it into the tunnel because I know it would derail and it is too big to fit through one of the access holes and too detailed to push out with my pole sander handle. LOL
Todd said:Even with success of the test, what if something gets in the tunnel and blocks the track, a small critter, leaves, stone or branch bits ?Even small parts from other train pieces. Don't know your exact situation, but are any of the above possible ?Seems your other pieces are extractable, but you don't want this one to take the same chances.
I setup a half circle of the 5' diameter curves with a 4' straight section at both ends and ran the loco at different speeds through the curve. I did notice that the loco slowed down a bit when it entered the curve then picked up a bit when it exited. This was barely perceptable but I did notice it. I think this was due to the tight curves fighting against the wheels.
When my stuff falls off the rails it’s nearly ALWAYS one of 4 things
- An errant bit of ballast or stick in the flangeway. 2. A cross-level problem or odd hump/dip 3. something too close to the track. 4. a joint alignment failure.
All are easily fixable… except inside a tunnel.
The 2-6-6-2 is one of my largest longest engines next to my GP38 but it has alot more detail to break off if it derailed in the tunnel hence my apprehension to send it in. Well this weekend after clearing off a mountain of leaves I brought the loco up to the entrance of the tunnel, popped the 2 access hatches so I could watch it go through. I then tied a string to the rear coupler just in case I had to pull it out and gave it some juice to start it slowly on its way. Remember that movie “Poltergeist” well I felt like that guy when he sent his wife into the ghostly realm to fetch little creepy Carole Anne. The loco went deeper into the gloom and the string played out but then stopped?? I backed it out and tried again with no luck. Armed with a flash light and a mirror I looked into a hatch and found a loop of wire that snagged the overhanging step on the loco. In my wisdom when building the tunnel my fear was that I would lose power to the track so the best way to combat that was to put in a direct line BUT of course I didn’t think that it would be in the hardest to reach area on th entire RR. Climbing under the house crawl space is easier. I used a long stick and pushed the wire down the best I could and guess what the 2-6-6-2 has now been approved for service on the RR though at a reduced speed when going through the tunnel.
Thanks guys for all your input.
Todd
Todd Haskins said:LOL!
...I then tied a string to the rear coupler just in case I had to pull it out and gave it some juice to start it slowly on its way. Remember that movie "Poltergeist" well I felt like that guy when he sent his wife into the ghostly realm to fetch little creepy Carole Anne...
Good idea!