I think I started collecting LGB stuff in 1979 with the thought that it would become “collectible”. Well so much for a money makeing project, but it has been fun. Now this many years later I finally have the time and energy to build a nice layout to run it on. My layout is American prototype, so I plan on getting rid of the gobs of European stuff, but have had fun bashing some of it to make it “usable” on my American layout. In mixing it with the Bachman cars, I want to get rid of all the hook and Loop couplers and replace them with something that will match up with the Bachman. I can buy Bachman couplers for less than a buck apiece. Will the Bachman couplers install onto the LGB without a lot of issues? It appears that for the most part they will work on the regular box cars and refers, but not on any of the LGB that have buffers. Is it best to just take the Dremel and saw off the buffers, or is there a better solution?
Norman,
I have found each car is unique. Now, I’ve only worked at installing Kadees on everything. It might be easier going to Bachmanns.
Ric;
Thank you. The Bachmans seem to work quite well. I did go ahead and Dremel off the buffers on an LGB car and installed the Bachman couplers. I did the TOC conversion that I found described here on the LSC site, and am very happy so far with the results. Yes the Kadees look much better, but for a dollar each the Bachmans work for me.
Norm
Norman L. Clark said:
Ric; Thank you. The Bachmans seem to work quite well. I did go ahead and Dremel off the buffers on an LGB car and installed the Bachman couplers. I did the TOC conversion that I found described here on the LSC site, and am very happy so far with the results. Yes the Kadees look much better, but for a dollar each the Bachmans work for me.Norm
Bachmann should work with just about anything especially if body mounting. Thats all I use, cant beat the price when compared to kadees. TOC fix works very well. (I did my own version and worked as well) The little tail that acts as a spring use a small eye screw to hold that tail. Works great. I even have a few were the tail broke and found that they are not needed if using TOCs fix.
Guys, I have tried the TOC fix and have a few cars with Bachmann body mounted couplers. They match very well with the Kadees. 1:1 couplers are not self-centering and are aligned before coupling and actually are left centered when they are uncoupled. The KVRwy problem with the non-centering couplers, is I have to many holes that I have to go in and grab a car, that can’t be easily reached by hand. Probably a design flaw of the railroad, but a necessity for space concerns.
I use a small sheet brass L or a 1/2" x 1/2" styrene L cut about 3/8" wide with two holes drilled thru for the mounting screw and the coupler tail, mounts using the same screw, works great once they are one. I was even able to add working cut levers to one Porter engine.
Victor Smith said:Victor, Do you have a picture or could take pictures of your conversions? Sounds interesting.
I use a small sheet brass L or a 1/2" x 1/2" styrene L cut about 3/8" wide with two holes drilled thru for the mounting screw and the coupler tail, mounts using the same screw, works great once they are one. I was even able to add working cut levers to one Porter engine.
Where is TOC’s article on using the Bachmann couplers? I’d also like to see what Ric and Victor have done.
TOC never did an article. It was discussed in a few posts several years ago. I wrote up my own version of his method on my website. Direct link to the page is here.
TOC uses a sheet metal screw, I use a machine screw and nut. Result is the same.
EDIT to fix URL tag.
Never mind. 
Jon fixed it before I got to it.
Bruce Chandler said:Ya known, when ever software gets an upgrade, users blame the upgrade when things go wrong. I forgot a double quote which causes the forum code to do some funky stuff. I was all ready to email Bob with a bug, when I noticed my mistake. It would have been so much better to blame it on Bob though :D
Never mind. ;) Jon fixed it before I got to it.
I think you can still blame it on Bob.
Bruce Chandler said:HA! For once I'm not too blame!
I think you can still blame it on Bob. ;)
Yes you are.
Ric Golding said:I'll take some pics by this weekendVictor Smith said:Victor, Do you have a picture or could take pictures of your conversions? Sounds interesting.
I use a small sheet brass L or a 1/2" x 1/2" styrene L cut about 3/8" wide with two holes drilled thru for the mounting screw and the coupler tail, mounts using the same screw, works great once they are one. I was even able to add working cut levers to one Porter engine.