Large Scale Central

Auction Find Re-work #1 - Stock Car

I’ve been wasting time and money after a friend (?) told me I could search the whole of Hibid, the auction software site used by many auction houses, for trains. Some of the auctions are for all sorts of toys, trains and miscellanea, so g scale trains don’t always get a lot of bids.

This little homemade stock car came up a few weeks ago, and I won it with a bid of $5. With buyers premium and shipping, it actually cost me $36.53, including the nice wooden plinth, a model steer and 4 LGB rail stops.

I’m putting together a little Civil War train (more on that in a later thread) and I figured the stock car could hold the horses for the cannons on my flatcar. A homemade car would be appropriate. But it was too big - the proportions didn’t look right. So out came the saws.

After cutting through the uprights on the side, I used the mini table saw to cut the ends as there were some thick uprights at the corners, and I cleaned off the sides to just above the floor.

I think the builder was testing his new pin-nailer. Look at the inside:

I managed to sand the bottom and I have started to try and level the body at the new height. I might add a trim strip along the bottom to disguise any gap. The underside of the base will get painted black while it is in 2 pieces - the rest will probably be flat red primer.

It’s a bit crude in construction (lovely) so I’m not sweating making it too nice. I don’t like the roof, with the walkway built in to the ridge, so that’s probably coming off next.

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Looks like first order of business now is checking tetanus shot records!!!
Looks like it will be a nice one when finished!

Nice clear day today, so out came the paints. (Pics when it dries.) In the meantime . . .

Here’s the just-arrived stock car next to my short Kalamazoo box car, which is 1/24th and looks it. [Cost me $25 in an auction, as someone else seemed to want it!] You can see why I wanted to lower the stock car and change the roof line. I found blocks under the truck bolsters so that took about 1/8" off the height!

Having separated body and frame and chopped a 1/4" out, I attacked the roof. I had to cut across between the top planks and then ease it off with a knife/chisel, as there were lots of pin-nails and glue.

Lots of nail-pulling and sanding later, I got the roof where I could look at it.

The roof sides butted up to the roof walk, which seemed to be a strip of mahogany on a strip of softwood and bamboo strips on top to walk on. There were two strips alongside the walkway supporting the roof, with lots more nails.
I also had to run the ends through the saw, which was tricky, as they are quite small and not easy to hold still at a funny angle while the saw blade does its thing.

I left it at that yesterday while my brain noodled on how to lower the angle and rework it all. Clearly if the angle came down, the roof would be under the walkway (good), but wouldn’t meet at the peak as it is too short (bad.)

I had already got my mini-table-saw out to lower the body, so I figured, as the roof walk was so thick/tall, I could run it through the saw with the blade at the angle I wanted for the roof. :thinking: :roll_eyes:

I had to chop/cut the side strips off the center walkway, and then clean up the sides.
Here’s a test cut, to see what happens when I run it into the rip blade.

Promising, so I tilted the blade and ran each side through twice, with the second cut about a blade-width away, making a wide slot at a slight angle.

You can see in the last pic that the slots are angled. The roof walk will still be solid under the walkway strips, instead of free-floating on supports, but it saved having to make a new walkway!

Now I know it will work, the next job is to fix the roof battens (some have fallen off,) and paint the 2 halves of the roof, before gluing it all back together.

And I just remembered I have to paint the doors and lower door slide. I think I have an Ozark boxcar door hardware pack, which might have a latch or similar. . .

More progress. The paint came out fine, on undercarriage, body and roof.

I put the trucks back on loosely, along with the body and roof. It is still a bit taller than my Kalamazoo boxcar.

I had been worrying a little about the dowel rod used for the truck pivots. When taking them off, I noticed they are Bettendorf-type steel trucks, probably made 50 years after the Civil War, so they had to go. I happened to have a pair of USAT archbars in solver, so they got a coat of paint.

Looks good. I made several from plans I found on the net. Used coffee stir sticks, old method of wax paper over plans and glue and pins. Found later Walmart has some nice size wood sticks, but they are pretty smooth, got a rougher look with the stir sticks. 1/32 scale



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Almost done. A quick pic of the new truck pivot. I ended up putting big fender washers instead of the nylon washer - more weight and stability.

Realizing the corners had thick uprights, I drilled and screwed the body to the frame. Didn’t always get the holes in the right place!

The doors went back without any issues, and the roof got some glue and weights to make it sit where it should.

I noticed the roof walk was a bit shiny and clean, so a quick wash with dilute black acrylic took care of that.

And here’s the almost-done result next to my small Kalamazoo boxcar.

and to a regular USAT boxcar. Still a bit big!

Now off to Star Hobby for some decals or letters.

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Sorry, but have to laf. I would have to be one of any cows in side of there when the train is moving. Those pins could hurt. ha ha ha . But nice working, keep it up.

Pap,
Those pins are strategically placed to hold the hay !

Ha Ha Ha, even with hay added. It still can hurt. LoL. :rofl: