Everyone who has attached track to concrete, what method did you use? How visible is it? Is it an eyesore?
-Will
For a permanent install you could drill small holes and hammer in a wood dowel and use wood screws (there isn’t much pressure on the track.). For a semi-permanent hold Liquid Nails or concrete silicone adhesive under the ties at spaced intervals. Both will clean up, off the ties when/if ready to move.
FWIW
JJ may speak up, he put clips into the concrete to locate the ties, but let them move a bit, side to side.
Regards, Greg
If the concrete is already set, you can use plastic “anchors”. (Or metal if you want to over build)
You will need a concrete bit the appropriate size and or a small hammer-drill. You don’t need huge anchors, little ones will do the trick.
Since drilling in set concrete always makes a bigger hole than needed, have some sort of patch avaliable.
Drill the hole and squeeze a little of the patch on the anchor and set it flush or a tad below.
Locate a tie over the anchor and then drill a hole slightly bigger than the fastener thru the tie.
Use Stainless pan-head machine screws and do not snug them up against the tie. Allow a little movement.
About 35% of my roadbed is poured concrete. I don’t anchor the track and ballast over top. I’m not sure if this is good or bad… After several rains ballast will start migrating under the ties lifting the track. After a few seasons I usually have to pull things up, sweep off the ballast and start over to get the track back where it belongs.
I’d advise against the cast in wooden blocks. Even PT will rot as the concrete cups just hold the moisture.
JB’s idea sounds reasonable to me, even if you haven’t poured yet.
I tried putting hardibacker board under switches, and especially crossovers with a couple of switches. I had the same experience as Jon, the ballast slowly crept under the track.
Now I free-float all my track and everything works much better. On one long straightaway, I embedded a keystone- shaped piece of synthetic wood into the top and used some small brass brads. This was not to lock the track down, but to keep it from sliding off the top of the wall, as I walk on this track for access. This has worked well.
I think making a bracket over a tie, that allows a bit of movement will avoid the grief of track trying to pull loose from a “tight” connection through the tie.
Regards, Greg
Regards, Greg
Thanks for the info guys, lots of things to consider. Any other suggestions welcomed.
-Will
I used a 3/16 masonry bit and 4/40 brass machine screw in a plastic insert