The new RDC-3 is a good looker!
I think it was worth the waite.
So I’ve had time to run this unit around the layout.
Well you will find all you track problems!!
I was told the sd-45 has some of the same track quircks.
Well we got the track tooned up.
Runs well.
Now for the seats inside ! HHMMMMMMMM.
I’m glad I do not have to sit in them!
I plan on putting some people inside.
Any thoughts on an engineer or conductor to place @ the throutle ?
I was thinging some clown!!
Check out some pics : http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?p=157291#post157291
Sean
How did you hide the 30+ wires from view?
Still an on going project!!
Sean
Aristo missed it by one… It takes 21 screws to open an RS-3… you only need to remove 20 screws to open the RDC-3… what a relief!
With the “horses leg” power cable and 20 screws and the bulkheads wider than the body bottom, well, it’s a step backwards.
Greg
Sean - It looks like they may have used the same motor blocks from the RDC-1 which have given me trouble on lots of track. They say if you swap them end-for-end it puts the one sprung axel in a better position to help keep it from riding over the rail if there is any side-to-side level issues on a curve. I’ve been meaning to do that to my RDC-1’s for a while.
Greg I’m confused!!
On my RDC-3 it only takes 12 screws to take it apart!
10 on the bottem and 2 on top.
You have to be carfull of the ones on the top ( strip easily)
I opened mine and glued the plastic seats to a thin piece of plywood .
I then used velcrove on the corners to secure it to the car.
This gives a nice wire chase for the miles of wire.
Oh ya when smoke fluid makes it way down below… the tape holding things … ( GOO - GOONE )
Just what I have found for now.
Sean
Sean McGillicuddy said:Musta been engineered by someone who was sure he would never have to take it apart and then put it back together again. :lol: :P
Greg I'm confused!! On my RDC-3 it only takes 12 screws to take it apart! 10 on the bottem and 2 on top. You have to be carfull of the ones on the top ( strip easily) I opened mine and glued the plastic seats to a thin piece of plywood . I then used velcrove on the corners to secure it to the car. This gives a nice wire chase for the miles of wire. Oh ya when smoke fluid makes it way down below.... the tape holding things ... ( GOO - GOONE ) Just what I have found for now. Sean
Sean, to remove the end caps you remove a screw on the top and 2 below, each cap… that’s 6 screws…
Then, if you do not want to damage the bulkheads at the ends, it’s best to remove them, that 2 screws each, 4 total, running total is now 10 screws.
Now you need to remove the 6 screws that secure the chassis to the shell… that is 16 total…
But I find it’s better to remove the screws for the 2 internal bulkheads so as not to “tweak” the shell wider, which is 4 more screws… that totals 20.
Now I think you can get it apart leaving all the bulkheads in place, that’s 8 screws total… you are at 12 screws, but I really advise against it, since you spread the shell and run the risk of damaging the end bulkheads.
Nice idea about making a chase for the wires…
I was thinking of filling the backsides of the seats with expanding foam, so attaching people might not crumple the seats, but I think some people have done so with no problems.
Thanks for the comeback, I think we both have a clear understanding now…
Regards, Greg
You never said disembowel.
You said take a part.
The less screws you take out the less you loose/ strip!
Just my thought and I’m sticking to it!!
Sean
Well I took mine apart and now way are you going to get by with the number of screw Sean as you have to remove two screws each from the two bulk heads. One on each end so that you can disconnect the wire plugs to lift the shell off. It’s a pain and 3 steps back wards for AC on this one. Later RJD