Large Scale Central

Aristocraft Heavyweight issue

I recently received a 3 axle heavyweight parlor car. It is derailing throught my Aristocraft “wide radius” turnouts. No problems with the two axle cars I already have. The 3 axle cars are new to me, so I have never seen this. Is there a way to stop this without replacing the truck to make them 2 axle truck, or replacing all my turnouts?

Also my club modules are at the point where they will need track soon. What size turnouts do the three axle heavyweights LOVE? I want the turnouts on my modules to work flawlessly. Thanks for help…Todd

Todd,
Check the gauge on the wheel.
Early 3 axle cars were notorious for this.

Todd,

I had the same problem. I ground off the flanges on the center wheels of each truck. It solved the problem and it still looks like three axles.

John Bouck said:
Todd, Check the gauge on the wheel. Early 3 axle cars were notorious for this.
:)............also check the throw and tightness of the truck mount too the body itself ?

Thanks guys, keep it coming. Any thoughts on what size switch is ideal???

Email Noel Wilson he did a segment on our live shows, don’t know if he saved it or if I have it. I think Noel will though email him through this site or at [email protected]. He likes the 3 axel heavweights and knows how to make em work. Regal

Check his videos on livestream

http://livestream.com/noelw

http://www.youtube.com/user/noelw71

You can make them reliable by lubrication, and checking truck pivoting and setting the wheels.

Back to back Aristo WR turnouts, like on a crossover, are too sharp for these cars.

See my web pages on the heavyweights:

http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/rolling-stock-mods-aamp-tips-mainmenu-33/aristo-rolling-stock-mainmenu-85/heavyweights-mainmenu-90

Please note that there are SEVEN sub pages from this main page, so pick the ones you want to read, look at the left margin which is the menu, and you will see the names of the 7 sub-pages.

Greg

ok
Tried some of the suggestions. I think this is a older version car. It has black plastic spacers between the metal wheels. I have checked some of the wheels for correct gauging, not even close on a few. I think I am going to replace the wheels with solid metal. I will be retrifitting the cars lighting to use a 9v battery and switch. I run rc battery so track powered lighting is useless to me.

Read up on Greg. E’s link… Only thing that i suggest is like he said and i did a how to on them on our internet broadcast months ago was to clean up.
Quote.
Tips:

Lubrication:

I cannot stress enough that you MUST lubricate these cars out of the box. They WILL derail otherwise, trust me, save yourself the aggravation!

Be sure to oil all the journals, these cars can have a lot of drag if unlubricated. Most of mine came dry. With the metal journal bearings, I use a heavy oil.

Greasing the truck pivot areas, the main pivot and the curved slot. Make sure there is no hangups or rough spots, I use Hob-E-Lube moly grease.

Very important: If you have the new style trucks, they have a rib on the top of the truck that goes from one side to another. You need to grease where it rubs on the underbody, this is the main reason for derailments.

Mine derailed right out of the box. Many of the journals appeared dry. After lubricating the journals and the underside of the body where the side bearing rubs, all derailments ceased immediately.
I cannot tell you how many people complain about these cars, and if they would just lubricate them properly 99% of their problems would go away.
“Also, make sure the Journals box move easy up and down… May have to trim out the slots very carefully.”
I use on the axle bushing a drop of Penn oil, 40 or 50 wt.
Hope this helps… Mine can back thru 10 Dim. switches with no problem now.

Greg, noel and others
Thanks for the help. Today regauged the original wheels. Lubricated with moly lube and truck side frames. After reinstalling the trucks what a 100% difference. Still using your site Greg to help with disassembly of coach to retro the lighting. Thanks…Todd