Large Scale Central

Aristo/Polk's switch

Today I finally got around to installing my new Aristo/Polk’s, wide radius, stainless steel switch. It differs from the ones I already have in service.

The stock rails are ground away, and the points are ground in a way that the point rail nests against the stock rail, under the stock rail rail-head.

Hopefully this design will help prevent wheels from picking the points. In my case it won’t matter much, because the switch is in a reverse loop where all mainline traffic will be traveling across the switch trailing point. But when I do switching operations, it may help.

The frog is even with the tops of the rail-heads, so I do not need to sand the frog down, like I had to on the original Aristocarft switches.

I did not measure the frog flange-way depth, but my LGB engine that I ran through it didn’t bounce nor jump, so its probably deep enough. Time will tell.

The manual switch machine is unchanged from the original design.

I found that installing the Bachmann switch-stand was pretty easy. I did have to adjust the position of the cam gear inside the unit, so that the point rails would seat properly against both stock rails. That was easy to do. But the throw rod kept popping out of the slot in the Aristo throw-bar. So I took some plated steel rod and fabricated a retainer for the throw-rod.

Now the switch throws properly and the throw rod no longer pops out of the throw-bar slot.

What? Yea, you guessed it. The plated steel rod is a paperclip. I have 2 boxes of paperclips, 2 different sizes, on my workbench. They are cheap, and they have so darn many uses. Well, they do in the hands of someone like me.

You don’t show it, but is the other stock rail cut out like the curved one you show?

That should make a smoother switch, I believe that is called a “simpson” joint where the stock rail is notched.

Greg

Looks like there is a reverse bevel on the points to compensate for an non-relieved rail head. So the point can tuck under.

Still not quite right, but something we can work with.

David; had you put an S bend at the end of the wire you wouldn’t need the clip.

John

Then it’s not a simpson joint, sorry, I think the simpson notches all the way up.

Greg

What are those ties? Are those the American? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)Tie plates go under the rail! A new fangled Clip? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)Spikes through the rail foot be a trick! I’d hate to be on the maul; Ka-Wanga!!!(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

The look is one reason I just laid track over bridges. Doing it right there will make the track more toy like in comparison.

G $cale is all about compromise! I must let it go…

John

Greg Elmassian said:

You don’t show it, but is the other stock rail cut out like the curved one you show?

That should make a smoother switch, I believe that is called a “simpson” joint where the stock rail is notched.

Greg

Yes Greg, both stock rails, and both points, are machined the same.

John Caughey said:

Looks like there is a reverse bevel on the points to compensate for an non-relieved rail head. So the point can tuck under.

Still not quite right, but something we can work with.

David; had you put an S bend at the end of the wire you wouldn’t need the clip.

John

Yes, I thought about that. But the end of the Aristo throw bar is rather thin, and I didn’t want to risk damaging it. Besides, paperclips are my go to fix, for trains, tractor trailer headlight switches and Xerox machines. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

John Caughey said:

What are those ties? Are those the American? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)Tie plates go under the rail! A new fangled Clip? (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)Spikes through the rail foot be a trick! I’d hate to be on the maul; Ka-Wanga!!!(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

The look is one reason I just laid track over bridges. Doing it right there will make the track more toy like in comparison.

G $cale is all about compromise! I must let it go…

John

John, yes its the Aristo interpretation of American ties. But at 10 feet away, I can live with it. And yes, any modeling is a compromnise to some degre or another. “Let it go”? Why?

John, those are how they always were, and like the other Aristo track.

Weird looking to be sure.

This is not new though, been this way for years.

Greg

I’ve only seen this kind. I was hoping it was Euro!

I know it’s not new … I’ve got to let go things I can’t change. sigh

Ramblings of a mad man, eh?

John

Are Guard Rails in gauge…or too far from the stock rails ? How is the actual track gauge all through the switch…this was a major goof-up on all the Aristo switches. The review should have included the gauge check, to be worth presenting.

It might be worthwhile to replace the throwbar with one of the new aftermarket offerings. The end holes soon become brittle, and the switch has to be removed and worked on upside down, to replace it, sooner or later. They only cost a dollar or so each.

Fred, I didn’t check the thing for gauge. I put it in service and have been running trains through it with no problems. My original Aristo switches still have their original throw-bars. I will be ordering replacements from GLX, just to have them in my spare parts inventory.

I will have the replacement throw bars here, if you make arrangements with Ric Golding to get them to you, thus saving shipping…

Thanks Fred. Is shipping that much from Canada?

Brass bar doesn’t cost all that much. I can get three throw bars out of a single 1/32 X 1/4 X 12 inch brass bar. A little black paint and I’m in bidness.

Steve, ah, but that will not work with track power.

David Maynard said:

Steve, ah, but that will not work with track power.

And that’s a problem because???

Oh sure, we get a thread going talking about turnouts, and somebody has to derail it by bringing up track power. With a hat tip to Greg. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)

Steve that’s a problem because I am olde school. My track is analog DC, and my reverse loop controller is 2 5 volt relays and 2 12 volt relays. I don’t need any of that newfangled, wiz bang, lectronic stuff. That stuff that starts smoking right at the worst possible time.

John Caughey said: David; had you put an S bend at the end of the wire you wouldn’t need the clip.

John

John,

I tried bending the wire when I first got my Bachmann switch throws. I could not bend it. Tough stuff they are using. I like David’s idea. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

If I had track set up that could run track power, even if I was battery, I would not add anything that would negate the ability. But if I was Steve, who will never (shudder) allow ot use track power, heck you can use metal ties and metal throwbars.

Of course anyone who brings an old Aristo loco that puts the battery power to the rails, will discover a new smoke unit ha ha!

Greg

Joe Zullo said:

John Caughey said: David; had you put an S bend at the end of the wire you wouldn’t need the clip.

John

John,

I tried bending the wire when I first got my Bachmann switch throws. I could not bend it. Tough stuff they are using. I like David’s idea. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

My fix is quick and simple. Cheap as heck too. All the things l like in a fix.

Greg Elmassian said:

If I had track set up that could run track power, even if I was battery, I would not add anything that would negate the ability. But if I was Steve, who will never (shudder) allow ot use track power, heck you can use metal ties and metal throwbars.

Of course anyone who brings an old Aristo loco that puts the battery power to the rails, will discover a new smoke unit ha ha!

Greg

Greg, I just made a choice not to have to worry about plastic throwbars, isolating wheels, and the like. And, when I modify an older Aristo, or even newer Aristo loco, or any other manufacturer’s loco for battery power for that matter, I make sure that the wheels are electrically isolated, as I am sure that you do. You do do that, don’t you? haha