I recently received the “never run” Aristo Pacific that I have been looking for for over a year.
But its been totally smashed up in transit. All four of the mounting posts where the screws attach the motor block to the chassis and one where the chassis attaches to boiler are broken off.
Navin doesn’t have any chassis.
Is there any alternative to attempting to glue them? What’s the best approach please?
mike
I would try and locate some polystyrene rod a little bit bigger than the broken posts. Drill the spot where the posts broke off to be a tight fit for the rod. cut the rod to length and drill out the center pilot hole for the screws. Cement them in place with a good styrene welder and wait for a good cure before re-assembly.
Good luck with it. I would be very annoyed with the shipper for a poor packing job.
I’ve always been a big fan of MEK. It welds most plastics (melts them together, unlike glueing).
-Kevin.
Yes sorry I meant Weld not Glue. Thank you both very much.
As they look like clean breaks I had considered matching them up right, then lining them up with an undersized screw to get the alignment right and then welding them back on. Then when the weld really has gone off, glue (e.g. epoxy) a reinforcing ring (e.g. brass bushing) around the repair.
How would that compare with Daktah John’s solution? Has anyone actually done either?
If there is a nub for the brass tube to go around, as well as the part you glue back on, that should work. As long as it doesn’t interfere with how things fit together.
Michael Turner said:
Yes sorry I meant Weld not Glue. Thank you both very much.
As they look like clean breaks I had considered matching them up right, then lining them up with an undersized screw to get the alignment right and then welding them back on. Then when the weld really has gone off, glue (e.g. epoxy) a reinforcing ring (e.g. brass bushing) around the repair.
How would that compare with Daktah John’s solution? Has anyone actually done either?
Michael- I have never attempted this exact repair. However, I have used MEK to weld many other plastics (repairs, new builds, etc.) and, once welded together, have never seen them fail at the weld. I’m no expert and your mileage may vary. Jon’s idea sounds good, as well, but involves making new parts (not my best skill). In my opinion, I would try and use the original parts first and see what happens. Worst case scenario, you have to fix it again using another method. Best of luck to you.
-Kevin.
Might check around, someone may have an old type that the motor is shot on and would sell it for parts, since the new drives are getting hard to find… I’d check with Rex Ammerman, he may have one from some of the bashes he’s done, or have a line on one.
I believe you’ll find that MEK or similar ilk will not work satisfactorily on the engineers plastic our model trains are comprised thereof. I’d give it a try before discounting it as viable solution (I’ve been here with no joy in the past). A simple test could be effected on the inside of the boiler shell.
I’d suggest gluing the broken pieces back into place with CA or Super glue, and subsequently roughing up the surrounding area, since the mounting pads/posts are raised above the boiler radius there is room to build-up around the post/pad with something that will bond. I’d suggest 5 minute JB Weld. The key herein IMO is to provide roughed up plastic and imperfections which the bonding agent can bite or key into. I’ve done similar repairs and drilled small holes at various angles in addition to roughing up the plastic. After you build-up and surround the post/pads, drill through the boiler shell and again rough up the inside of the boiler shell and push JB Weld through the pad/post and build up some material on the inside three times larger in diameter than the tab/post similar to rivet head… Later drill back through the tab/post with the appropriate size drill.
As an alternative and or in addition plastic-brass-aluminum tubing could be cut to length, bored to size and slid down over the repaired tab/posts and then using the JB Weld as described above surround same.
Michael
Rex would know what adhesives bond well to Aristo plastic…
Michael
Zap-A-Gap with spray quick curing spray !
Rex Ammerman said:
Zap-A-Gap with spray quick curing spray !
I agree but you must use the spray.
I love using the accelerator. I used to spray some in a cup and using a steel probe (ask your dentist for used instruments) I could apply drops where needed. This avoided over spray and losing the positioning time.
John
CA and MEK don’t work well on the engineering plastic.
JB Weld makes a specific compound for “welding” plastic, it’s different from their other epoxy compounds… auto parts stores have them. Has worked in several difficult situations for me.
Greg
Try using a straw around the existing post and add the jb weld
Sean, a piece of brass tubing could be good also. May have to cut a notch out of it to fit around something. I used that faster J&B weld, but that was on metal, it worked good.
J&B Weld is great for this kind of repair.
Again, I want to stress the difference between “traditional” JB weld, and the JB Weld plastic welder, one is good and the other great on plastic.
Greg