Hello
What is the deal with aristocraft hook and loop couplers. Yes I use them because they are easy and cheap.
I recently got a aristo 20’ boxcar removed the details, painted it then replaced the couplers with the aristo hook and loops, put it on the track and the “tongue” hit everything that crossed th track such as a switch. In the past I have shaved off the tongue being careful not to interfere with the spring. Question is why does Aristocraft supply hook and loop couplers as a replacement when put on they don’t clear even their own switches? The loops match up to my other rolling stock but that hook sure hangs low. Do that many guys use the uncouplers that I assume this long tongue is for? Aristo should think about trimming them.
What do you guys do?
I agree with you 100%.
I use H&L’s myself, because they work best for kids and novice operators.
I feel they have other advantages too…but that’s another topic.
I put hook and loops on one end, loops only on the other.
I use Bachmann’s or LGB’s because they don’t have this problem you refer to.
I find that Aristo H&L’s have additional problems. The teeth underneath their loop limit the lateral travel of the hook, so the couplers will twist a car off the track if you use two turnouts for a crossover.
I slice off those teeth.
I only use Aristos for the loop ends, not their hooks at all.
In the past I have cut off the gladhand because it fouls as you say.
But nowadays I stick to B’manns and LGB’s as much as possible.
Putting B’mann’s on an Aristo craft car can be a PITA.
But I don’t have a lot of Aristo gear anyway.
My 2c. Hope it helps.
Hello Todd,
I also cut down the offending part of the couplers. I found the easiest way was to remove the hook & loop, then touch it on a bench grinder to remove what you want, then replace the coupler.
I also had trouble with the Aristo rerailer that sits in the track as part of the track.
I found that some engine blocks (USA Trains) when running at slow speed would actually lift of the track and just sit there becuase it lost contact with the track power via the loco wheels. I had to file down the bottom of the engine block about 1 mm.
I think quality control is non existant now, as items are made in bulk in China at a low price.
Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
I don’t think it is a matter of quality control but bad engineering from the getgo.
Imagine a begineer who has a few pieces with the hook and loops on other cars and finds out he can’t use the supplied couplers that came with the new aristo car without getting stuck or derailing on every switch Not good.
Most of my pieces are USAT, LGB and Bachmann so I don’t have alot of experience with Aristo.
Looks like I will be grinding and cutting the hooks again.
I’m thinking that the manufacturer probably figures if your gonna add switches your gonna want to change up to the AAR couplers and not run the hook and loops anyway?
If I was a manufacturer I know I would have that school of thought?
Just a thought
A legitimate complaint to be sure. I never understood why one end hangs so low. I thought it was just me because I have never heard it mentioned until now. I just grind them off.
Todd,
this is an old complaint dealt with many times on the old manufacturer’s site. It seems that the hook and loop coupler was supplied to comply with the requirement for a ‘standardised’ coupler in the hobby. I do not think that Aristo actually intended us to use them. Actually fitting them can be an issue as the coupler mount is not specifically designed for this coupler and may require modification on many models.
My advice is do not use them. Use a well proven brand such as the German company model. The low slung tang is not really necessary as few would actually use uncoupling ramps.Instead of modifying my engines, I modified my Aristo rerailer by adding washers under the rail and trimming the plastic to make the rails fit properly.
Now the plastic center of the rerailer is below the rail head. No more issues.
I use double hooks and have never had unwanted uncoupling problems.
I also found Bachmann plastic on the H&L loops to be brittle and will break in the winter, plus the spring is very thin plastic whereas USA and LGB plastic springs are much more robust.
I agree Dan by using the double hooks it is a very secure connection and rare to come apart even if one of the sides has a bachmann spring that has seen better days. I do like the Aristo ones since they have the metal springs and are very robust.
I don’t like to remodel any of my equipment but will hack up a hook and loop to get it to work right.
To the Grinder!!!
Another trick that I use is to place a drop of glue on the end of the spring on my hook & loops, as mine always seemed to be lost. No troubles now with lost springs. Also old biro pens have a spring that is about the right replacement sizeeif you need one.
Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway