Large Scale Central

Aristo FA Motor Block issue

Problem Solving
#1

I’ve got an older (REA New York Central) FA. While packing everything up for the season, I happened to notice that one of the axels on one of the motor blocks is free wheeling- If I turn it by hand it will spin. The other axel on that same motor block is fine (does not turn). I’m thinkin’ that this is probably not good. I know I’m gonna have to open up the block and look. Any words of wisdom before I open it? When I remove the screws and lift off the cover is it going to go, “BOING!!!” And spray out a plethora of springs, gears, grease, levers, and assorted mechanical chaos? Should I put on my safely gear? HASMAT suit? Thinking cap? Condom? Coincidently, Aristocraft just happens to be going out of business. So, I’d better get some replacement parts soon. I’m sure that you guys will have some expert advice, as always. Thanks in advance for your help.

-Kevin.

#2

You can try here http://www.girr.org/girr/ or you can go to Greg Elmassian’s pages. They will have info on all phases of the FAs. Watch you don’t lose the bearings at the ends of the motor shaft when you open them up.

#3

Refining it down a bit for you Kevin …http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/brick_fix.html

#4

I have the utmost respect for George, my site of over 500 pages was inspired by him.

But the link supplied by rooster describes everything but his problem.

When the axles split, like USAT ones, then the wheels won’t turn with the gear, they will slip.

Unfortunately, unlike USAT, there is very little to no clearance to apply a sleeve over the cracked part to re-secure the wheel to the “axle casting” which has the gear.

Better try to find some replacement parts real soon. I’ve been contacted by a few people if I have any spares. I only have enough spares for myself. I’ve had a “spinning axle” on my RS-3 several times, and I have 4 locos that use these axles…

You might be able to buy an old brick that has one failed axle and use that for parts.

Greg

#5

Everyone- Thanks for the information. I really appreciate your help. So, it sounds like a split axel is the problem. Is there a recommended “safe” way to open up the brick so that I don’t lose the motor bearings? I’m guessing that this split axel thing is fairly common. I wonder if Aristo has replacement parts (keep your laughter to a low roar).

-Kevin.

#6

Open mouth insert foot!!! Of course theres a safe way to open the brick! And if I read George’s tips before I entered my last post, I wouldn’t look quite so stupid right now!

-Kevin.

#7

Does NWSL make replacement gears for the Aristo power blocks? I know they make USAT replacement gears.

A question for Greg, is the Aristo part a “standard” part that one might be able to find via the net? I’m wondering just how custom the Aristo axle is, or if Aristo simply used off the shelf parts?

#8

As Kevin mentioned the entire axle is spinning not just a wheel, it may be that one of the screws in the universal joint between the motor and gear box has come loose.

#9

I thank Paul may be on to some thing doesn’t George talk about a pin in the first ones

that can fall out of the u-joint?

Richard

#10

Whoops I read wrong, Paul has the most likely answer, I read it that one wheel was loose on one axle.

Greg

#11

I think Clem at Warrior Run has a box of used FA motor trucks. I bought one for a few $$ last time I saw him.

#12

More great information from you guys. Thanks a million!!! Actually, if I had a million I could bail out Polk’s!!! I haven’t made an attempt at opening things up yet, but it sounds like maybe I’ve just got a screw loose (yes, I know, I’ve had a screw loose for a long time. That’s how I got into trains in the first place). As soon as life slows down a bit, I’ll have to check things out. Just in case it’s more than just a screw, does anyone know hoe to get in touch with Clem? Thanks again for the much needed help.

-Kevin.

#13

Kevin,

Why not just replace them with two new motor blocks, last I checked they were 50 bucks each.
If not let me know what parts you need, I know a few people who have parts, I also may have what you need. I also frequent Aristo quite a bit and I can check with Navin.

#14

Kevin here you go http://www.warriorrunlocoworks.com/

Richard

#15

Nico- I thought about replacing the motors, but if it’s only a lose screw, I might just try that first. I should probably give some thought to stocking up on a few replacement motors anyway. I’ve got another FA and an FB, plus 2 older U25B’s and 3 RS3’s. I think they all use the same motor block. Unfortunately, Aristo doesn’t show any on their site. Life’s gotten crazy lately, so I probably won’t have time to open up the block 'til next week (I hope). If the problem is more than just the screw, I’ll give you a call for some parts and advice. Thanks for your generous offer.

Richard- thanks!

-Kevin.

#16

Kevin, the fix Paul referred to was on my early REA FA and FB units. The connection is a brass sleeve with 2 very small allen screws. Its an extremely easy fix once you get the trucks apart and find the correct allen key.

#17

Stuart- Thanks for the info. Sounds like an easy fix. Are there any difficulties in getting the trucks apart? Can I just turn the engine upside down in a cradle and open the block up?

-Kevin.

#18

dieseldude . said:

Stuart- Thanks for the info. Sounds like an easy fix. Are there any difficulties in getting the trucks apart? Can I just turn the engine upside down in a cradle and open the block up?

-Kevin.

Kevin hope this was a gen. ? not just to Stuart. This is a "

  • Brick Removal
    • Remove ONE brick from the engine. Depending on the model and the vintage, you may have to remove the shell to unplug the wires. If you can pull enough wire out of the body so that you can work with the brick, then you don’t have to remove the shell either.
    • Remove the side frames by removing three screws from each side frame. If the engine is a 1997 model, be careful when removing the side frames as there is a spring and contact in each axle bushing. Note the power pickup wire that fits under one of the top screws. You’ll have to get this wire back in the right place when you reinstall the brick.
    • Remove only one brick at a time. You’ll want the other one in place to give you a clue as to how to reinstall the brick. Note that the bricks are apparently reversed from each other (the motors and gearboxes are on different ends) AND that the wires leading to the lugs which contact the brass contract strip on the back of the side frames are apparently reversed as well. This is the way it is supposed to be.
    • Pull the brick out a little ways. If a set of connectors comes out of the hole in the body or more than 6" of wire comes out, you’re in luck, you don’t have to remove the shell. If not, take off the shell so that you can disconnect the brick from the loco.
  • Brick Disassembly
    • On each brick case, there should be six screws and two more holes for two screws that are not used. Remove the screws. Carefully separate the case halves. The motor and the axle in the rocking gearbox should remain in the piece that has the wires coming out from it. The axle nearest the motor should remain with the other case half" Fromhttp://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/brick_fix.html

. The allen wrench I found
was only in a set.

Richard

#19

Richard- Thanks!!!

-Kevin.

#20

Richard I don’t know when Aristocraft/REA first manufactured the FA units but I think mine are from the first run. They were purchased in 1992 at the National Garden Railway Convention in Washington ( Reston VA) . I also purchased one of the first Pacific’s at the show.