Large Scale Central

Aristo-Craft 27 mhz Train Engineer receiver (CRE-55471) problem

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

Posted on the Aristo forum but not hopeful of a reply, so posting here -

Several days ago, I used my 27 mhz Train Engineer with no problems. While approximately five years old, the Train Engineer has only about four hours usage, always with a cooling fan and maximum current draw less than 2 amps (and never in inclement weather). Today, I had a problem with linking to it. I tried several times, including switching off and on the power switch on the receiver, to try to reset it.

My efforts were totally unsuccessful. I took out a spare receiver and had no problem linking it. The original receiver, when switched on, the the relay clicking sound is not heard. I believe that this is the problem. Returning to Navin is out of the question as international shipping is worth more than a new receiver would cost. With less than four hours use and no abuse to the receiver, I am a little disillusioned as I intended to run my railroad with three receivers in total. To date, only one receiver has ever been connected to my railroad, so polarity reversal is not an issue.

I was hoping for better reliability. In essence the receiver is dead, even though the red power indicator is illuminated and the fan runs. I am now questioning my decision to implement the TE system. Fortunately, I had a spare on hand.

#2

Be certain your source voltage is at least 12 volts. They don’t do well on less and would exhibit this symptom. Since the second Rx works fine, I’ll assume the power supply is good. Check wiring between the supply and Rx - pull the 10A fuse on the Rx and be sure the blades are clean. I had a system on my car fail to work because of corrosion on the fuse blades.

#3

Jon,
when turning on the receiver unit, one should hear an audible click as a relay energises (same click as heard when linking to the unit). As stated, my defective unit does not make the relay clicking sound. The power wires were directly changed from the older receiver to the new receiver, so power supply is not the problem (Ultima 18 volt, 10 amp Crest power unit and original heavy power leads as supplied by the manufacturer). These things are great ‘when they work’, but with no access to a repair facility, then they are basically non-repairable to a consumer outside the States. Fuse contacts were checked clean. My enthusiasm for this system has certainly nose-dived.

#4

Sorry you are having problems Tim. The wire I suggest checking for and open, or weak circuit, is the Red/Black wire that feeds the unit from the supply. If it is broken and only a strand or two is making contact, the Rx may not be receiving enough current to pull in the relay. Probably not the trouble, but worth a look along the wire for cuts or sharp bends.

You could also open up the case, take the board out of the plastic and look for cold solder joints - especially on the traces near where the red/black wires are soldered to the board.

I kind of doubt the unit fried with how you describe it being used. Probably just a manufacturing flaw, like a cold joint, showing up. If you are handy with an iron, hit all the joints.

Good luck.

#5

Also - If you are careful, you can operate the Rx board without the case. Fan is only needed in high current draw situations. Try tapping on the relays (large black components) while powered up. It might be a sticky relay.

#6

Tim,
Just a thought …I had an issue with mine linking on and off on occasion, finally figured out the problem when my fan went up in smoke. Have you tried linking it with the fan unplugged?

#7
David Russell said:
Tim, Just a thought ...I had an issue with mine linking on and off on occasion, finally figured out the problem when my fan went up in smoke. Have you tried linking it with the fan unplugged?
Good thought Dave - A bad fan would pull lots of current causing a voltage drop in the circuit. Tim's symptoms sound like low voltage.
#8

Defective receiver circuit board was removed and power checked. It would seem, as suspected, that one or both relays are shot. With the board held upside down and the relays ‘technically tapped’, occasionally, the relay will energise and illuminate the ‘code set’ light. This one is dead!

OK, I decide to test my other two receivers, both new, never used. Connect the first one to power and no joy - the unit was dead. I remembered reading some years ago that the power on/off switch can be a problem, so I exercised the switch full throw in both on/off directions, several times. Viola, power on light illuminated and the receiver linked with no problem.

The other new, never used spare receiver was then powered up with no problem and linked immediately.

With four receivers, two transmitters and an Ultima power supply, I have invested many hundreds of dollars. The money, in hindsight, could have been spent on a reliable European system. I am yet to be convinced that this system is as reliable as many say it is.

#9
Tim Brien said:
SNIP With four receivers, two transmitters and an Ultima power supply, I have invested many hundreds of dollars. The money, in hindsight, could have been spent on a reliable European system. I am yet to be convinced that this system is as reliable as many say it is.
.......Or a reliable Australian made fully filtered DC output trackside R/C system that I have been making and selling for over 20 years now. Less expensive here in OZ than the Chinese made stuff too.
#10

Tony,
unfortunately, I had already spent the money on the other system, before hearing of your trackside unit. Now I am at a precipice - do I keep spending on the other system, to ensure spares into the future, or do I bite the bullet and buy another system? (rhetorical question, just musing aloud!!!)

#11

Research, research, research before buying, is the order of the day.
Or did you fall for the honeyed tongue of Mr Abel? :wink:

#12

If you are sold on your TE system, use what you have that works power up your track with it for track power, go QSI/G-wire and either the T-9000 from Airwire, and or the newer NCE Procab. The throttle’s whichever you choose will take over after powering up from TE then you can have full control of your engines equipped with QSI/G-wire, and or just use your TE’s!! I used mine that way at first until I went to battery! So you can have the best of both worlds, track power, and or battery!! Regal

#13

Jerry.

Just so that you and anyone else who might be interested will know for future reference, the 900 Mhz band used by the NCE and QSI brand products is, to the best of my knowledge, reserved for telecommunications and thus is not approved to use for controlling model trains here in Australia.
The REVOLUTION is 2.4 GHz and is legal worldwide.
Be warned, if anyone is caught using non approved frequencies the Radio Police will jump on you big time.

#14

900mhz rules

#15

Full kudos to Lewis Polk, who contacted me by personal email with an offer too good to refuse to get the defective receiver back for repairs. Just may take him up on it.

#16

Man I’d jump on that in a heart beat before he realizes what he said. HeHe. Later RJD

#17

The response I have always received from Aristo and many other RC manufactures has always been excellant. Give them a chance to repair their product and they almost always treat you fairly.