Large Scale Central

Aristo Casey

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

Yup, two Aristo TE 27Mhz track-power receivers that I have used for years to power my Thomas layout at shows appear to be as dead as the late, great Mr Jones.
One was unresponsive last August; the red power light lit OK, and the green signal light would flash when the transmitter buttons were pushed, but no power was being put out. I never got around to checking it further.
The other worked OK back then.
Took them out to this weekend’s show across the river, and neither functioned; red power lights on, but no green at all, even when the code button was pushed, and, of course, no power out. Checked the transmitters; they seem to be OK, and their batteries test OK.
So I removed the TE receivers and hooked in a pair of Lionel trainset power packs, which ran everything quite satisfactorily today.
The TEs spent their non-show life in my trailer with the layout modules, so the heat/cold and humidity changes may have finally got to them.
Right now, the TEs are on our dining room table; I shall check them again in a couple of days when they’ve warmed up and dried out, but I’m not holding out much hope. The receivers are years out of warranty; I’m not sure that it’s worth the hassle of returning them to Aristo for check/repair, or buying new ones. And no, I cannot afford to replace them with Revolutions.

I am thinking of abandoning radio control for the show layout and getting a pair of LGB “signal cabin” throttles, about the same price as new TE27 receivers. Anyone have experience with the LGB throttles?

#2

Simple Critter Control: $25
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/gscalegraphics_1_020.htm

Sorry, just realized you are track powered.

#3
Del Tapparo said:
Simple Critter Control: $25 http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/gscalegraphics_1_020.htm

Sorry, just realized you are track powered.


Not to worry, I have one or two battery-powered projects in mind – but the show layout will remain track-power in the main.

#4

For years we found the 27 MHz trackside TEs were bullet proof. But as the voltage and power of our battery packs increased, we began having trouble with the on/off switch. At first the green LED would flicker and the unit would become hard to link. Then the red LED would go out, and the unit would not function at all.

We noticed when using the 22.2 volt lithium-ion battery packs the switch would appear to arc. I never did find out whether the switch terminals were becoming carbon coated or just burning out. We suggested that our members install a standard toggle switch and leave the TE’s on/off slide switch in the on position.

#5

I replaced the on-off switch with wire. Really do not need this switch as I can just turn off my power pack.

#6

I started out with the LGB throttle cabin and had it outdoors for over a year. Worked great and ran my trans just fine. When my TE dies I will prob go back to using it especially since I use battery and live steam more these days.

#7
Dan Pierce said:
I replaced the on-off switch with wire. Really do not need this switch as I can just turn off my power pack.
That is true. I've been using a Crest switching power supply for my TEs, and quite often just used its switch to cut the supply current.
#8
Paul Norton said:
We noticed when using the 22.2 volt lithium-ion battery packs the switch would appear to arc.
I've been using a Crest switching power supply for the TEs. For a long time, I had it set for 13.8 volts output, which seemed to be a little low for some locos, so I switched it up to 22 volts; this is the top end of the TE's range, according to the label. Could this have something to do with the problem?

Then I bought a second Crest switching power supply (so I could keep the original in the garden shed for the backyard layout); the new one has three output voltage settings, and I decided 18 volts would be a good compromise – not at the TE’s top end, but still giving the locos enough oomph.

I do note the TEs failed some time after I started with the new supply, although this could be coincidence. After all, it worked fine for a number of shows.

Also, I put my digital VOM on the power supply output after the TE debacle Friday evening, and it indicated the output at no load was roughly half the official voltage at each switch setting, i.e., about 7 volts at the 13.8v setting, about 9 volts at the 18v setting, and 11 volts at the 22v setting. The meter is accurate.

I repeat my earlier observation that the red power lights were working on the TEs, so power appears to be getting in and the power on/off switches seem to be working, but the green signal indication remains dark.

I shall try them again Monday, by which time they will have had 48 hours in a nice warm house.

I have little knowledge of things electronic – just enough to know that I don’t know much :slight_smile: and that I’m better off not taking things apart.

#9
Shawn said:
I started out with the LGB throttle cabin and had it outdoors for over a year. Worked great and ran my trans just fine. ...
Nice to know.
#10

Chris - Check the voltage under load. The switching supply may not develop full voltage at idle. If it still shows only 9V at the 18V setting that would be your problem. The TE needs at least 12V to get started.

#11

There is an adjustment pot in the Crest unit I have (older 2 voltage unit).
I tweaked mine to 24 volts output, but you could lower it to 20 volts.

#12
Jon Radder said:
Chris - Check the voltage under load. The switching supply may not develop full voltage at idle. If it still shows only 9V at the 18V setting that would be your problem. The TE needs at least 12V to get started.
OK, I'm going down to the basement and throwing myself out the window: These electronic gremlins are too much for me. I'd go back to clockwork, but I'd probably overwind the spring, or wooden pulltoys, but I'd likely trip over my own feet.

Checked the triple output voltage power supply again this morning: about 6-7 volts output, no load, at any switch setting.

Then I went out to the garden shed and fetched in my older, dual output supply from its -20C hibernation. Switched it on briefly: 22v output, no load. I let it defrost for an hour, then hooked it up to the TEs: BINGO! Both worked fine; leastways, the reversing relays clicked nicely. I don’t have any track available to test the throttle/brake with a loco. Have to do something about that (you know, roundtuit).

So then I attached the triple supply, and behold, this time it too worked fine with both TEs – the one that failed last August and again Friday, and its mate that worked in August but also failed on Friday. (You are correct – this power supply does need a load to register a proper output. Its older cousin doesn’t need a load. Go figure.)

Conclusion #1: No more outdoor storage for these TEs. It appears they can no longer take August heat or January cold (although they didn’t seem to object in earlier years).
Conclusion #2: The triple output supply cannot be left in a cold car even for an hour, as it was Friday afternoon.
Conclusion #3: I’m hanging on to those old Lionel trainset controllers, though the LGB ‘signal boxes’ are still in my mind.

#13

Great! Glad everything worked out for the best.

#14
Jon Radder said:
Great! Glad everything worked out for the best.
Fingers crossed and touch wood :)
#15

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/Bomba_atomowa.gif)

#16

David Russell said:

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/89/Bomba_atomowa.gif)

Da Rooster dun blown his top agin.

#17

Uhh… didn’t you just prove the TE’s were fine all along, and your triple output power supply went Tango Uniform?

The newer Crest stuff is not as bulletproof as your old TE’s.

I got one of the 15 amp ones… it turned itself into a door stop with very little provocation.

Greg