Large Scale Central

Aristo Aluminum or Brass, I have a mix of both

Track and Trestles
#1

I have a mix of both right now and need to pick one and go with it. I originally was going to use battery power, which is why I have both but I’ve changed my mind. I’m going to use track power.
That being said, should I sell the aluminum or the brass track I have? It’d be a whole lot cheaper to go aluminum, but I just want to make sure everything will run right. I’ve only seen people using brass or ss, so I wasn’t sure.

My railroad will be in a raised bed, floating on ladder based sub roadbed. I have approximatley 120-150ft of track…i probably should measure it. Anyway, I will be starting construction in the next 2 weeks…weather permitting. :smiley:

Thanks,
Matt

#2

Hi Matt,

If you’ve already used the aluminum track outside, I’d go ahead and keep it for awhile to try out. Used track in good condition seems to hold value regardless of how long it has been used. If it’s new, you may consider selling it now. You will likely have better luck with brass for track power.

#3

I was running track power with Aluminum rail for a couple of years.
Aluminum expands and contracts a lot more than brass with temperature change.
During the hot part of the day I had very few electrical issues.
As the temperature cooled off, problems would start popping up.

If at all possible, use brass with track power.
Ralph

#4

Hello

I like brass track due to it being rugged and workable. Since you are building in a raised planter you probably won’t have to worry about people or animals stepping on and wrecking your track. I’m not that familiar with aluminum track but I know it would be pretty hard to solder to it for jumper wires etc… There are many more options in sectional brass track than aluminum and brass is always for sale on Ebay and other sites.

A 150’ RR is a good start some guys have less how much bigger do you plan to go? I say sell the aluminum and go brass.

#5

I sure do appreciate all the info!

Rockwall Canyon Jeff, the track has only been outside for a couple months. The brass I had been buying used, but the aluminum I purchased new.

Ralph Berg, I hadn’t thought of the temperature change. It fluctuates here daily. For example, today was 71. Tomorrow they are calling for snow. ugh. In the summers it get’s pretty hot too.

Todd Haskins, your right about the options. Aluminum is limited to a 10’ curve. Which I think will be fine for anything I plan on running. I talked with Mike Dorsch this past weekend and he highly recommended me running 20ft. curves though. That got me thinking that I should get rid of my aluminum and switch to all brass. But dang 20ft diameter brass curves are not cheap. Hmmmm…I hadn’t considered jumper wires. I was going to do feeder wires using some low voltage landscaping wire. Also, that aristo aluminum track is pretty stout. It doesn’t have the weight of the brass of course, but it’s much stronger than I thought it would be.

Oh, this is just the start. I have enough yard to build an empire, if money was no object. lol. I would imagine the railroad will get bigger, but for now I want to finish what I have planned. Which is just a single track mainline with a siding for a business or grain elevator. I just hope to be running trains by this summer.

Thanks!
Matt

#6

Matt,

Have you considered the AML 20ft dia curves? They are code 332 like Aristo, but they happen to be somewhat cheaper. Perhaps they are just on sale for a limited time. I’m also in the market for 20ft curves as well, but I may end up bending 5ft straights instead. I run only battery and steam, so I may end up using aluminum where I will have the track raised up and well anchored.

#7

Matt, have you considered re-bending the rail you’ve got to the curves you’d like? I run Al code 250 because it was the only thing I could afford at the the time, and it does look better than oversized rail – regardless of its composition.

I also use DC rail power. The only problem I have with it is that the only joiners available at the time were brass. Brass in contact with AL electrolyzes, and the resulting corrosion causes conductivity problems. I’ve solved that problem by wrapping the aluminum rail with aluminum foil and clamping the joint tight.

Here in Sacramento we have temperature extremes, but not in one day. Might be as cold as 50 at night, then 110 in the day, or 32 at night, but only 50 in the day.

If you put large bends in the rail, the expansion will simply push the rail to the side, and not cause serious problems.

I’d say keep it all, perhaps using the AL for sidings etc.

#8

You might also try using stainless steel rail clamps. That would fix the conductivity issue due to expansion, and I think it would avoid the electrolysis concern.

#9

Jeff, I looked at aml track and while it is cheaper it is still right at $370 a box(16pcs) from my local dealer. He actually has several different sizes in stock. I was looking hard at the 16.5 ft, because it’s only $299 a box(16pcs). If I replace that then I will still need to get a box of 5ft straights too.

I think I could replace all the brass track I have with aluminum cheaper than I could replace the aluminum with brass. I seem to have more aluminum track than I thought I did. I have about 2 box’s of 1 ft aluminum straights too on top of all the 10ft curves and 5ft straights.

Dick, how does your aluminum hold up outside? Does it require more cleaning? Do you clean it the same way as brass? Unfortunatley I don’t have a rail bender and I’ve never used one. :frowning:

Thanks,
Matt

#10

Just out of curiosity…not trying to start anything…

Why have you decided to avoid R/C battery…?

#11

Fred Mills, BSc, BS, SD said:

Just out of curiosity…not trying to start anything…

Why have you decided to avoid R/C battery…?

I had a few reasons. Cost being the main one. Batteries don’t last that long, at least in my experience, and are expensive. I use to be into r/c cars and trucks. I preferred the nitro powered vehicles over battery for convenience. I could run as long or as little as I wanted to without stopping. That’s kind of what I’m thinking with track power. It will be ready to go, minus a quick rail cleaning. I’ve actually never had good luck with batteries lasting in anything I own. IE: r/c cars, cordless drills, remotes, etc. It could just be me. lol.

I could also see myself getting into dcc. I like a lot of the different things you can do with it. I did read that you can possibly run battery and dcc, but it was a challenge.

There was one specific website I ran across that addressed several concerns of mine. Of course, I can’t remember where it was. Also, I talked on the phone with Mike Dorsch, a fellow member here, and found out his layout was track powered. He also didn’t have good luck with batteries.

Thanks,
Matt

#12

Matt Russell said:

Fred Mills, BSc, BS, SD said:

Just out of curiosity…not trying to start anything…

Why have you decided to avoid R/C battery…?

I had a few reasons. Cost being the main one. Batteries don’t last that long, at least in my experience, and are expensive. I use to be into r/c cars and trucks. I preferred the nitro powered vehicles over battery for convenience. I could run as long or as little as I wanted to without stopping. That’s kind of what I’m thinking with track power. It will be ready to go, minus a quick rail cleaning. I’ve actually never had good luck with batteries lasting in anything I own. IE: r/c cars, cordless drills, remotes, etc. It could just be me. lol.

I could also see myself getting into dcc. I like a lot of the different things you can do with it. I did read that you can possibly run battery and dcc, but it was a challenge.

There was one specific website I ran across that addressed several concerns of mine. Of course, I can’t remember where it was. Also, I talked on the phone with Mike Dorsch, a fellow member here, and found out his layout was track powered. He also didn’t have good luck with batteries.

Thanks,
Matt

Matt, talk to Kevin, if you dare! You may never look back!

#13

John Passaro said:

Matt, talk to Kevin, if you dare! You may never look back!

I’m new. I don’t know Kevin. Sorry.

#14

I think John is referring to Kevin Strong. If you have Garden Railways magazines you have probably read his excellent articles. Kevin is a WIZ with the electronics.

If you plan on having just one or 2 engines going battery, fancy sound system and all the other bells and whistles might be a good idea but if you are like me who buys everything that looks cool then track power can’t be beat. I wouldn’t mind having battery RC in a few rigs but when I looked into it the cost was inhibitive. I’d rather have trains ready to run then sitting on the shelf waiting to save up to buy the electronics. Since you are just starting out I would say stick with the track power. You can always convert later.

#15

I would consider bending the aluminum track. I had several pieces in curves that worked quite well even with DCC. Later RJD

#16

For me track power is the cheapest way to go. Get brass track and rail clamps on every joint and your good to go. Before operations I take out my old trusty dry wall sander with 600 grit and walk the line. Get a good transformer. Bridgewerks is what I use .I haven’t had any problems doing it that way since 2004 when I first got it up and running. I haven’t had good luck with battery powered trains. It could very well be something I did wrong when charging it or whatever. I can totally see the benifits of it however ,I do have a dash 9 with a battery, you’ll get no arguement from me. Don’t have to clean track so even on the crappiest winter day you can still go out and run trains. I have a lot of loco’s so I can’t afford to go to battery even if I wanted to. I know I could get a trailing car to save on the battery costs , but I don’t wan’t to get stuck using the same car or two every time behind the motive power. DCC in another option as Matt mentioned. I have a few MTH trains and they are alot of fun to run so there are options with track power. I agree with Todd. I also like to run multiple units facing every wich way and with track power that works for me.

#17

Hi Matt,

I’d just like to point out that some people have said oxidation on aluminum track can make track power and dcc an issues. I have heard some have gotten away with it but I think most would agree aluminum is the worst for dcc and track power due to oxidation problems. I am not an expert so I am only repeating what I have read on this and other large scale forums. I myself have SS but only due to a going out of business sale from a major dealer a few years ago. Before that I spent quite a few years buying one or two boxes of brass track a year. From what I have read, aluminum will oxidize almost immediately. You should get more run time between cleaning with brass. A common saying around here is its your railroad run what you want, but I thought I should mention it. Since you have both, run both as your own experiment then base your purchases from your results.

Steve

#18

Oxidation wasn’t a problem when I ran track power/aluminum track. I rarely cleaned my track.
As I stated earlier, my problem was the joints separating with temperature change.
There is a huge amount of expansion with aluminum track. My track literally “grows” several inches from one end to the other.
I think locking the joints down with stainless steel clamps as mentioned, might work.
But, you would need “expansion” tracks strategically placed to avoid buckling.
Ralph

#19

Thanks Todd. I’m still new. lol.

R.J., I don’t own a rail bender and I’ve never used one either. Not sure where I’d begin.

Mike, I remember everything you told me. I even took some notes so I wouldn’t forget!

Steve, I’d read that too about oxidation. But I’ve also read it’s fine.

Ralph, thanks for the input. The expansion does concern me. It can get quite hot during the day and be cool at night. Just yesterday it was 71 and today it was 30. Tomorrow it’s supposed to be 60. go figure. lol.

I appreciate all the help!!!

I think I will just sell the aluminum and go up to my local train shop and pick up what I need in brass. I think he may be going to the eclsts though. I’ll give him a holler tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help. Can’t tell you how much I appreciate it all! :smiley:

-Matt

#20

I just wanted to give an update to those who helped. I’ve sold, or I am in the process of selling all the aluminum track. I also have purchased, what I hope to be, enough brass straights to start the railroad. The only thing I need now, track wise, is curves.