Large Scale Central

Are you hungry (for some tender boards)?

Modeling
#1

As I mentioned elsewhere in “Modeling,” I’m thinking of adding some “hungry boards” to my Bug Mauler tender, just to set it apart from the others. I’ve got most of the Robert Grandt books (“Locomotives of the D&RGW, RGW, C&S,” etc) and have been poring over dozens of photos to find a setup that looks right for my application (small, old loco, struggling railroad). As you can see from these photos, there are a gazillion ways to do hungry boards (solid, perforated, steel, wood). And you can always add a tender-mounted air tank, which is another story (I’ve kinda given up on that because there’s not much room between the water fill hatch and the back of the tender load.

Bottom line: any opinions on what looks good? Or what you like? Not that I’ll take your advice. Just looking for inspiration or affirmation or just something to do until dinner.

BTW, in order to practice copywrite etiquette, although I think this book’s has expired, these photos are by Maxwell and Jackson.

You’re welcome.

#2

I’ve added “hungry boards” to most of my locos, Some are wood, and some are styrene. I like the wooden ones better since they look …like wooden boards.

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/Operating%20session02/ops0027.jpg)

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/expansion/expand0054.jpg)

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/August%20Ops%202013/AugOps27_zpscd075c6c.jpg)

#3

Ken, too cool! That’s exactly the look I am hoping for, especially the top photo of what appears to be a Bug Mauler tender. Question(s): how’d you squeeze that air tank in there? I have an Trackside Details tank and just gave it a test fit, but with my newly installed hatch, it don’t look good. Or did you move what appears to be the stock B-Mann hatch rearward? Or maybe shorten the existing side boards (the ones that are molded in place) to widen the rear platform? I was thinking of doing that (I’m a demon with a Dremel!) but that would mean cutting into/through the existing coal load, which don’t want to come off because the gen-you-wine Colorado coal from the Durango and Silverton, done got stuck to the tender shell.

I’m still debating over “wood” or steel look (all replicated in styrene, of course). I’ve pored over the D&RGW, RGW, and C&S books and can’t decide. I probably won’t do C&S, as I don’t particularly like the looks of most of their tenders.

Here’s what I’m talkin’ about…

BTW, the hole is for the battery charging jack.

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/Shell1.jpg)

And the test fit…

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/Shell2.jpg)

OK, gang. Ken put in his 2 cents. Anyone else? I got plenty of tender shells. :slight_smile:

#4

Here’s one I did on a Bachmann 2-8-0.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/drg350/drgw35015.jpg)

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/drg350/drgw35011.jpg)

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/drg350/drgw35012.jpg)

I’m doing a similar extension on a 4-6-0 tender, but no pics as yet…

Later,

K

#5

Beautiful work, Kevin. I printed out the original post when it first appeared. I like the way you made the “boards” look. Only thing is, as far as room is concerned, that’s the Connie tender, which is bigger and has room for an air tank. Still, a spiffy looking piece.

BTW, didn’t you add material to the bottom edges of the tender floor–along the sides? One thing I always hated about the stock tender is the thing looks like it’s standing on tippy-toes. Also, I see you retained the little dog house tool boxes. Some of the proto pix on the C&S, I think, show them as either removed or enlarged/extended vertically.

I guess there is no right or wrong way.

#6

On both tenders I just moved the back boards forward about a 1’4 '" and glued a piece of styrene over the hole. Placed the air tank over that so it’s hardly noticeable, and made a new coal load. In the first pic, That’s just a piece of blue Styrofoam cut to shape and a real coal load glued to it. It lifts off the get to the battery and electronics in the tender. The Big Hauler is just the cut down plastic coal load with real coal glued to it.

BTW, the “Bug Mauler” as you call it, is actually the second pic. It’s a 1st or 2nd generation B’mann 2-6-0 with a BBT 460 drive in it. I bought it in 1988, my introduction to Large Scale. The first pic is an “Annie”.

The K-27 is the only engine I haven’t added hungry boards to as I don’t have the heart to mess with it yet.

#7

The 4-6-0 tender is actually a touch longer than the 2-8-0 tender, so you’ve got a bit more room for an air tank on that one. I was very close to putting an air tank on the back of the 4-6-0 tender I’m working on, but the tank I had available (from my C-19 rebuild) was a touch too big for my tastes.

On the 2-8-0 frame, I did beef it up a bit. It looks too spindly otherwise. You can kinda-sorta see the seam where I added some strip styrene to the bottom.

Later,

K

#8

Ken, I think I may do what you did–lop an inch or so off the coal load. It’ll be messy, 'cause the genuine coal has had years to set. But, so what? Kevin, yeah, tank size is an issue if you’re anal, and I think way too much about such details. In fact today in SoCal, where summer has finally caught up with us and it’s bumping up against 100 degrees in some parts of the country, I went all over the inland part of our county in search of Bondo brand black primer in a rattle can (recommended by one of “us”), only to strike out. In fact, the minute you mention Bondo, they wanta sell you–Bondo! Ya gotta 'splain you want paint. Anyway, I came home hungry and cranky because even in our seaside town it was in the high 80s (poor baby!), so I sent one of “us” a nastygram complaining about the lack of availibility of Bondo products. At this point, I looked at the tender shell, which needs only a coat of paint to be complete and thought, “Just go with what ya got.”

On another tangental topic, I investigated all of the stuff to use for track underlayer and learned Home Depot handles Trex only on request. The lady recommended pressure treated 2 x 4s, which I examined only to discover that they already had termite holes in them–in the store!!! So, despite Kevin’s advice about Hardibacker Board, I decided I would use some generic, concrete-looking board that comes in 3 x 5-foot sheets, which will fit in my car. Unfortunately, ya can’t cut it without destroying your saw blade, but I figure can scribe and snap my way around the yard.

BTW, one of “us” person: if you are reading this, sorry to be a poop. I was hot and hungry but I’m much better now because there’s ice cream. :slight_smile:

#9

Thanks for the pics Kevin. I’ve been following your example in the rebuild of my Connie’s tender.

Joe, I used Strip Styrene and then distressed it to look like wood.

#10

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/No2018.jpg)

No2 has hungry boards and real coal too…

#11

I don’t see any rivets …

#12

Here’s a wood set I put on a Bachmann indy

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/photobucket-538-1322943563394.jpg)

#13

I’ve avoided doing actual work–short of sticking a few pieces of styrene together–researching them dang hungry boards. I not only have several Grandt books showing locos and tenders of the D&RGW, RGW, and C&S, but I also have four fat files of Bachmann bashes and Fletcher’s stuff, much of it showing hungry boards. My conclusion: there ain’t just one kind. Nor is there just one way of making 'em. For example, some are wood, some are steel. They use slat construction (my guess this was to let a lot of the coal yuck filter through), boards, or steel sheets welded together. Some have bracing on the outside, others on the inside. The braces are attached with bolts and in the case of steel, maybe rivets. Some bunkers are short, others tall. So which one to choose? Well, ya could just flip a coin. And still be correct. Somewhere.

Hey, it’s all make believe anyway. :slight_smile:

#14

Make believe? Are you kidding? This is REAL model railroading you know. :wink:

#15

David Russell said:

I don’t see any rivets …

They’re in the other thread…