Has anyone in this forum have experience using the Archer raised decals? I ordered a sample size of both rivets and welds, but the rivet heads look pretty small. I think I can manage to use to weld decals fine, but I’m thinking I should have ordered the “G” scale 5/8" rivets instead of the sample pack.
I’m wondering what size people have used? And thoughts about them?
Craig
I tried the G scale rivets when Archer first introduced them. They are not very prominent, but certainly better than nothing. In this photo, the top rivets above the window are Tichy plastic rivets set into holes. The rivets on the strip at the side of the window are Archer with a coat of paint. Below the window are the rivets in black as they come off the paper. (The window is on a 1"20.3 F scale railcar.)
I bought a sheet of the Archer rivets, but once I’d put two coats of paint over them, they were barely visible. I’ve bought some of the plastic “drill and press” rivets (you can get piles of them from overseas for cheap) which are much better. But they’re about 100 times more work.
Dan
Would it be possible to include a link for a source of the ‘drill and press’ rivets you mentioned? Also, can you recommend an appropriate size for 1:20.3?
Thanks,
Ken
Pete,
Thanks for the info. Archer say you can stack the decals for a deeper, thicker look. I’m going to experiment a bit and see if they are worth the trouble.
I’m was thinking of applying them after primer, and right before a light top color. I have already have had a few NBW sets that have turned into “blobs” because I keep covering other parts of the model with primer.
Dan Hall said:
I bought a sheet of the Archer rivets, but once I’d put two coats of paint over them, they were barely visible. I’ve bought some of the plastic “drill and press” rivets (you can get piles of them from overseas for cheap) which are much better. But they’re about 100 times more work.
Link? I’m thinking this process sounds like the drill and fill method. If I was thinking and had known the prototype had rivets, I would have used my NWSL riveter on a .005" sheet and covered the whole side of the model, but too late now.
Kenneth Matzick said:
Dan
Would it be possible to include a link for a source of the ‘drill and press’ rivets you mentioned? Also, can you recommend an appropriate size for 1:20.3?
Thanks,
Ken
Not sure you need to go abroad. Tichy O scale riverts are $3 for 200. Those are the ones in my photo above. Not sure what size we used!
THESE ARE .035 DIAMETER RIVET HEADS. THEY ARE MOLDED IN RUST COLORED STYRENE WITH .015 MOUNTING POSTS. 200 PCS
https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/o_nbw-rivets/p/8020/Default.aspx
Incidentally, I’ve had some success printing rivet position dots on a piece of paper, taping it to the side of the model, and drilling where the dot says to drill. Any decent graphic program can do that - I used Powerpoint for the pic below.
Pete,
That solution of printing and taping seems almost to simple to use. 
I might just have to go that route…
Straight sewing pins make great rivets, ya just gotta have the patience to put them all in…
Make sure you spray over the rivets with something right after you apply them. When I was masking off my SD70ACe for paint, it took some of the newly applied louvers off. I should have cleared over them at the least, to protect them.
I am using straight sewing pins to replace missing rivets on a hopper cart project I am working on. HO track nails can also be used for rivets. I found the HO track nails in 2 head size, and the larger ones almost match the rivets on the Bachmann 10 wheeler.
the larger ones almost match the rivets on the Bachmann 10 wheeler.
Well, maybe, but those on the ten-wheeler are a bit overscale, doncha think?
Update
Archer says I can exchange the sample pack for the larger G scale ones. Once I get those I will see how they work. Archer suggests stacking them to make a more pronounced surface.
Craig
Craig,
I used some Archer G rivets in places on the tender for my GS1. I think you saw it when you were here. They are a little fine but probably more to scale than not. The rivets on the side of the bunker are Archer.
These are also Archer
Paul,
Are those the 5/8" rivets?
Craig,
The ones on the bunker are AR88083, 5/8". Front of tender are AR88085.
I also have some AR88082 7/8" that I also used.
Pete Thornton said:
the larger ones almost match the rivets on the Bachmann 10 wheeler.
Well, maybe, but those on the ten-wheeler are a bit overscale, doncha think?
Well yea, more then just a bit.