Large Scale Central

Anyone use these rail joiners?

I am curious about these…Seems like the best possible way to join track, so why doesn’t everybody use them? I need to make some additions this year and I am out of the AML clamps I’ve been using. Granted these would be a bit more work but I like the “scale” look and the idea of aligning the rail head instead of the foot!

Any thoughts or experiences?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-SETS-STAINLESS-STEEL-RAIL-JOINERS-W-CODE-332-RAIL-JOINER-DRILL-JIG-/221197233528?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item338061ed78

Pic looks like a drilling jig!

Use this to drill your hole so you could tap it.

Unless I’m missing something?

Sean

Sorry Sean, they do not make it very clear, the website is even worse…They come with a plate and 4 SS screws/lock washers/nuts as ‘shown’ here…No tapping…

http://choochoostuff.homestead.com/NMSJOIN.html

So you have to drill 4 holes , thread 4 bolts , with two plates, 4 washers ,then 4 nuts for every joint. You need two wrenches.Drill, drill bits.

(http://choochoostuff.homestead.com/files/DSCF1909.jpg)

How much are they?

I use Train-li

(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/smcgill_pics/railclamps008.jpg)

(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/smcgill_pics/railclamps012.jpg)

One screw driver!

http://www.train-li-usa.com/store/rail-clamps-c-54_61.html

Working great so far 5yrs+

I use split Jaw and they hide in the ballast well. The split jaw design also helps control “twist” and gives you some “tweak” for connecting rails of slightly different dimension.

(Like the run to run variation in Aristo SS rail!)

Norm’s are prototype in design, and huge and ugly to me.

Maybe if they used closer to proto size, but a lot of work, and if you add up the costs of the parts, not cheap.

Greg

Yep, like I said, a lot more work.

At reasonable quantities they are $2.50 per connection ($5.00/pair) A good bit more than the $1.50/piece I’ve been paying for brass clamps.

I’ve been using AML without complaint, and may continue to do so…These just have a look of permanence about them I like. Just don’t know if they are worth the effort.

Nice idea but I agree with Greg - Too big and too much work. The few split-jaws I can see on my RR don’t bother me anywhere near as much as the ties missing at every joint.

Yea. I think I like those Train-li ones.

I’ve seen them from time to time advertised on Ebay. They are pricey. The other con is all of the loose small parts would be real fun on a ballasted layout, let alone a garden layout.

If you want to make them on your own, buy the kadee 2/56 tap and drill set. Then use a piece of 1/8 flat stock cut to length and put in place on the rails, drill it and the rail with the tap bit then drill only the track with the clearance drill. Tap the track and use 2/56 bolts. This is a pic of it mating 250 to 332 rail. The plate can be used on the outside for similar rail.

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/014.jpg)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/015.jpg)

(http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i231/paintjockey/016.jpg)

Another reason to have fully welded rail…Less unoticed detail

Split-Jaw for me, please. I’ve only got a tiny layout by your standards - two concentric circles 28 feet and 27 feet in diameter made with 5 and 8 foot sections.

'sides, they are made in Oregon, and that pleases me.

tac, ig, ken the GFT & The Astoria/Megler Bridge Boys

I have a different question about these. I have them, I really like the looks of them, but I haven’t installed them yet (I intend to when the weather warms up some).

My question is this: using these, how do you, or can you, allow for the expansion and contraction of the rail in heat and cold? Is it even an issue at all?

John

IMO many factors come into play with that question …if the track floats in the ties and on the roadbed with nothing fastened down then I personally say, NO expansion and contraction will not be an issue and you can secure the rails tight together if you wish unless you want some wheel noise at the joints then open them up a bit .

However this is just my opinion.

On our 7.25" gauge track here in yUK, where we are actually about 6 feet below sea level, we grease the fishplates - located by bolts in elongated bolt-holes - never had any trouble from -10 to +33.

Of course, there ARE places in the US where either extreme could be considered pretty mild…

tac,ig, ken the GFT & The Elongated Bolt-hole Boys