Is there a difference between the Krylon clear gloss and matt for overspraying decals? I usually paint in matt.
All the decal manufacturers I have ever seen suggest you paint the base color in at least semi-gloss for better decal adhesion. Then over-coat with flat.
This applies even to dry-transfers…All suggest applying to a shiny smooth surface and over-coat with flat if desired.
Having applied both systems I would have to agree. Transfers are very difficult to “seat” on a flat painted surface and decals require a lot of “sol” to bond on flat paint as well. At least with dry-transfers I have found gentle heating of the surface helps considerably.
I have never had an issue decaling matte surfaces but I always use Micro Set and Micro Sol -
Doug Arnold said:
Is there a difference between the Krylon clear gloss and matt for overspraying decals? I usually paint in matt.
You asked about overspraying, after the decal is applied.
Not much. One is gloss and the other is semi-gloss. (not dead flat, like Testors dull coat.)
Just remember to light coat it at first to see what happens.
As my most recent experience states, I will probably only use the Krylon Crystal Clear that Stan Ceaderleaf suggests. Then I overspray with one light layer of the Crystal Clear and then I spray with dull coat. I’ve done that in the past and never had a problem.
Especially since I’ll be using Stan’s decals I will be using that technique! I emailed with him this afternoon.
I also use Micro-sol and Micro-set when applying the decals.
I overspray all of mine with Krylon UV Resistant clear matte.
I will also use micro-sol for areas where I need the decal to conform around things like rivets or other details.
Doug Arnold said:
Is there a difference between the Krylon clear gloss and matt for overspraying decals? I usually paint in matt.
Unfortunately it isn’t that easy to sort out. Take a look at this list of Krylon clear sprays.
Krylon – Acrylic “Crystal Clear” top coat “Gloss” #51301
Krylon – Acrylic “Crystal Clear” Top Coat “Satin” #51313
Krylon – Matte Finish # 1311 (for art work)
Krylon – Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating # 1303 (high gloss)
Krylon – Low Oder clear finish “clear Latex” # ??
Krylon – Triple Thick Clear Glaze #0500 (very High Gloss)
Krylon – Satin Finish Crystal Clear Coating # 1323
Krylon – Crystal Clear Acrylic Flat # 53530
Krylon – Lacquer Spray Clear Gloss # ??
So when some one says they use “Krylon Crystal Clear” as an over spray A person needs to find out which one and how it was applied.
Add to this the fact that Krylon changed all their formulas a few years back from Enamel to Acrylic (EPA rules) and old stock was still in use for several years and new was being applied with/over and they were not really compatible. This change caused a lot of confusion and application problems for model builders. Now most of that is gone (I do have a few old cans) but now we have things like Fusion for Plastic and paint/primer mixes that raise a whole new set of issues.
I have developed a system that works for me on plastic, wood, or metal for painting and decal application. The most important ingredient of that system is patience, and that one took a long time to learn.
Unless it is Summer hot ( above 90 degrees) I always soak the spray can in tap hot water for 10 minutes before using
Shake really well and keep shaking while in use.
Drying time. For paint at least 24 hours between coats or until there is no paint odor on the model.
I also allow 24 hours for decal drying.
Most railroad finishes are flat but some times a color can only be found in gloss or satin that works fine because you can over spray the model with flat or matte. On a flat finish like box car red (Krylon ruddy brown primer) I over spray the entire car with satin or even gloss to give a finish surface for the decals. I over spray the entire car so that all surfaces will finish with the same texture and sheen.
After applying the decals, I always use Micro-Sol and Micro-Set no matter what the surface, I allow the 24 hours then overcoat the entire car with a one or two very light coats of satin. This will help hide the film better than direct application of flat or Matte. Wait 24 hours before finishing!
For finish; I use Krylon flat finish if the car is not going to be weathered or Matte finish for a car that is to be weathered. The Matte is a little rougher surface with more “tooth” for weathering pin washes and pigments to adhere too.
The Krylon sprays I use are
Gloss-- #51301
Satin-- # 51313
Flat-- # 53530
Matte – # 1311
Just what works for me
Good luck
Rick