Large Scale Central

AMS Gondola - Uncoupling & other proglems

Modeling Rolling stock
#1

I found a good deal on the AMS F Scale Gondola and Caboose at ECLSTS. The caboose had been re-worked by AMS with new wheels and changes to cure cut lever problems, but not the gondola.

For starters, the coupler sits too high compared to the caboose and all of my Bachman F scale stock that I just finished converting to Accucraft couplers. I tried taking the pocket apart, but I couldn’t find an easy way to shim it. I did trim the coupler ears to give a little more swing and, as John Bouck suggested to me, changed to Kadee springs.

The next best way I could think of to lower the coupler was to change the wheels. I whipped out my trusty digital caliper and started measuring the diameter of all the metal wheels in my spares box. The USA Trains wheels were the smallest, nearly 4MM in diameter smaller than the AMS wheels. Installing them required shortening the axles on the wheels by about 8MM and drilling out the truck journals, and heat bending the brake shoe mounts to re-center the shoes. When done, the car was lowered by about 2MM. The coupler is still a bit high, but now it will reliably couple.

The big problem now is keeping it coupled. The coupler lift bar is connected with an S-loop of brass wire in the coupler and a single loop of brass wire ties it to the cut lever. It works fine on straights, but in curves, the parts bind and lift the pin, uncoupling the car. I messed around trying to bend things so they don’t conflict, but no luck so far.

Has anyone solved this problem using Accucraft couplers and keeping the working cut lever?

I notice on the Bachman cars the brass cut lever is bent nearly straight out when at rest, and several loops of fine chain tie it to the Accucraft S-loop on the coupler, I have no problems with these cars uncoupling. I’m thinking that bending the lever and adding some chain might be a solution.

Note to those who don’t like the Accucraft couplers: I found that by trimming the ears (spring mounts) to allow the coupler to swing further and changing to the weaker Kadee spring, I can get close coupled body mount cars though an S-Curve created by two Aristo Wide switches placed together. This is the worst situation I have on my railroad where I would expect F Scale stock to run. I much prefer the look over Kadee and the operating cut levers are a nice addition. Fortunately, John Bouck doesn’t agree and was willing to trade me a boat load of Accucraft couplers and Kadee parts for a spare caboose I had :smiley:

#2

Jon,
And now you know why I traded them. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
KD’s-----thumbs up.
Accu-----thumbs down.

The Accu’s gave me nothing but prollems on my layout.
Keeping my cars together was more important to me than cut levers, air hoses and lift bars. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

#3

Well - It’s only that one AMS car. All the Bachman F Scale stuff and my new AMS caboose couple just fine, and stay coupled.

I’m happy you don’t like them, otherwise I’d never gotten them :smiley: They work SO much better than the metal Bachman couplers. With the metal Bachman couplers I’d have to smash the cars together at 20 SMPH and the pins still wouldn’t drop half the time. Uncoupling was a pain too. The Accus couple and uncouple easily and they track well even through my S-curve with my ‘ear mod’ and your Kadee springs. I lubed them all up with graphite so the action is smooth.

Besides - Where could I get enough Kadee couplers and draft boxes for the value of an old caboose :smiley: :smiley:

I never could master that Kadee screwdriver trick. Ric and the guys up at Fred’s make it look easy, but I fumble around and have a heck of a time. They might work good for you, but not me.

If I hadn’t got the Accus from you I probably would have converted all the Bachman stock to Aristo/Delton couplers. They work really well for me too.

#4

Jon, I have fixed height on accu couplers by putting small washer on top of coupler and or sanding shank of coupler thinnner to fit both in draft gear box. Gon is actually too tall. I replaced truck bolster, a friend milled down pad on top of truck. Either method needed couplerbox to be raised to correct height.Accus have hard time on tight radius. I used to run on 2.5’dia loop when I lived in apt. I disconnected lift bars and would seperate cars by reaching under knuckle and pushing up trip pin. Flats uncouple on 8’ dia curves as stock linkage binds up. Chain would fix problems. Caboose can be fixed by enlarging hole on pin on coupler. Bachmann cars can be fit with accu couplers by removing Bmann head and using brass channel to join cut down accu coupler to bmann draft gear. I pin coupler to brass channel and crazy glue as well. Height may need minor adjusting as well.
If you have any extra couplers can I buy some so I can convert bmanns without buying whole set from accu.
Hope this helps, Dave

#5

Dave -

Dave -

Thanks for the comment on the Gondola and the washer idea. Changing out the wheels got me most of the drop I needed. I’ll look at doing your mod to gain some more. I have left-overs, but not interested in selling any. I want to have them in stock for future scratch builds and non AMS purchases.

My curves are quite wide. The sharpest being my balloon track on the indoor division. It’s made from mostly 8Ft Diameter sectional track. That’s why I am suspect of thier lift bar connection method. I am going to try the chain.

The caboose I bought is the “new & improved version” - it doesn’t have a problem with the lift bar.

Most of my Bachman conversions were made using two modified Kadee draft gear boxes and attach in the original holes for the Bachman couplers. The height comes out perfect. I documented my method here: http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=10640

#6

Jon–my couplers work fine. However, one on an AMS tank car was seriously stiff and I had to basically drill out the hole in the coupler so it could rotate more easily–might want to try that.

No problems ever with the cut levers, and all I have is 8’ diameter, not even 10’ Aristo WR switches.