Large Scale Central

AML ties strips and Switchcrafters rail

Does anyone know if you can use Switchcrafters code aluminum 332 rail with AML tie strips for thier code 332 rail? I know that there is a difference in the width of the base of the rail between Switchraters and LLagas .

Thanks

Dan

The Switchcrafters code 250 aluminum fits the AML narrow gauge tie strips pretty good. I used that when I redid the layout around Mancos. I don’t know about the 332.

I don’t know about the AML ties, but I know the SwitchCrafters code 332 aluminum rail will fit the Aristo-Craft ties because I’ve done it.

Chuck

Yes it will fit I have about 200’ of it down. I think switchcrafters rail is from micro engineering.

Be careful as the Accucraft ties are NOT UV protected. Be sure to paint them and clearcoat with a UV clear. Unless of course you want to do it all over again in 2-3 years. We have had cupping, out of gauge, and crumbling ties in a short time with the NJ weather. I just pulled up some Llagas creek after 10 years onthe ground and they are just showing the same signs of wear. Though I never knew to UV protect them at the time as they are supposed to be safe. Though it seems that there is a life limit with the ties . Unless you use Aristo or LGB, they are the only ties/track I seen last 10-15 years no problems.

Thanks guys for the input. I was thinking about using some tie strips on some of my Switch Crafters rail as I had the chance to buy some, but after doing some research on the pricing, I decided just to continue using my cedar ties. The person that had them wanted $2.00 a piece for the tie strips and all told it was more than I could by the new in the box. So I will just stick with wood ties as I cut them myself and don’t have to worry about UV protection.

Jason Kovac said:
Be careful as the Accucraft ties are NOT UV protected. Be sure to paint them and clearcoat with a UV clear. Unless of course you want to do it all over again in 2-3 years. We have had cupping, out of gauge, and crumbling ties in a short time with the NJ weather. I just pulled up some Llagas creek after 10 years onthe ground and they are just showing the same signs of wear. Though I never knew to UV protect them at the time as they are supposed to be safe. Though it seems that there is a life limit with the ties . Unless you use Aristo or LGB, they are the only ties/track I seen last 10-15 years no problems.
Who told you the AML ties wernt uv protected? I called them today and they said they were ?

Nick

I have some AML tie strips on my Sunset Valley code 250 and they are doing fine.

Says they are protected but we have many failures here and many replaced and damaged ties as evidence. One friend replaced over 200’ of track as they distorted and curled upwards creating a rocking horse motion. Another friend has abotu 130’ of track plus the steaming bay that is all chalky and brittle. Its due to be replaced with something else as they only have been installed for 4 years now. Anothe friend has the NG ties and they were cuppped also,. those ties were replaced by Accucraft as they were only a few months old.

I’m using AMS code 250 ties (very early production) that have been out since summer 2005. I’ve got some tie strips that are a bit “chalky” on the top, but when compared to plastic kids’ toys, lawn furniture, etc. which are known to be UV stable, the ties are faring no worse. Our sun is pretty harsh out here–a newspaper left on the driveway in the morning is yellow by noon. Some tie strips are worse than others, often right next to each other. In terms of being brittle, I’ve not noticed any difference between old and new ties. They seem to handle my kids’ routine torture tests fairly well.

Later,

K

Armor All, 303, or paint all work well to protect the ties from the sun.

Personally, I prefer cheap spray paint to weather the rails and protect the ties. This uses the barrier method.

Aristo recommends using 303 Protectant on all of their plastic products as additional UV protection.

Greg E. says that Armor All provides similar UV protection as 303, but also has something that maintains flexibility in plastic. He says that the stuff that Turtle Wax sells is the same thing, just less expensive.

Your mileage may vary.

Hey Dan,

Sounds like you’re hand spiking your rails to the cedar ties. How about some pictures of what you are doing?

Chuck

Been using this for a few years to clearcoart all the rollingstock and coaches Ive built. Though we also use it to seal the weathering on the cars too. those cleared cars are in much better shape then cars that were not.

My only concern was to be sure to clear the ties if you planned to use them. It makes a world of difference.

http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant_clear/

I spoke with Fred Devine yesterday from AML, He said that the ties are fully warrantied and that they were having a production meeting early next week and would ask them to up the amount of UV product in the ties for the next run. Nick

(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/nicholas_savatgy/_forumfiles/HVLSRRCLOGO.png)

I have used both the Turtle Wax product and Armor All with good results. I think all track should be treated every so often. Later RJD

Chuck: yes I am hand spiking my own rail to cedar ties. The rail I am currently using is solid Steel Rail that I purchased from a guy up in Michigan. This is the same guy that sells old Delton C-16 parts now and then. I suspect that this rail is something that Delton had made years ago. In any case I bought 1000 ft of rail and working my way through it before I start using the Aluminum rail I bought from Switch Crafters. I cut my own ties from Cedar boards that I salvaged our of a Museum display that had been indoors for 14 years, so the Cedar boards that are 10" wide and 8 feet long are well seasoned.

I have not actually started installing track in my backyard yet as I am still working on building a storage shed as well as some of the garden work that the wife wants and trying to decide on what plants I want to use. I also have to dig out the Yucka plants that I planted 6 years ago. If anyone had told me how big those things would get I would never had planted them. I have had to cut them down twice now with a chain saw just to get them down to ground level, and the still grow back with no tending to them and almost no water.

What I have been doing is building track modules that will eventually be installed in the back yard hopefully this fall when the weather is a bit cooler. The modules are made out of Sintra ( PVC foam board). These are 4" wide and 1 1/2" tall. I used 1/4" sintra and then cut some PVC 1" x 6" into strips 1 1/4" wide and then cut them into pieces 4" long. These are glued to the bottom of the Sintra in equal locations the length of the modules which are 6 feet long as that is the length of the steel rail. Lastly I glue with Plumbers cement a 1/4" thick by 1 1/2" wide strip 6 feet long to each side the the top section. This forms a very strong C-Channel 4" wide x 1 1/2" tall and 6 feet long.

I paint these modules with Krylon Ruddy Brown primer and after it has dried for several days I then use Titbond III glue to glue the cedar ties to the modules. I let the ties dry for a couple of days before I spike the rail to them. I use Switch Crafters 1/2" spikes as the extra length sinks the spikes into the Sintra after going all the way through the ties. I pre drill holes for the spikes before using a pair of pliers to hand spike every other tie with two spikes for rail rail.

The straight module go the quickest to make as I have made a track jug that I use to keep the rail in alignment and correctly spaced on the ties and keep the correct alignment at each end of the module, so that it will line up properly with the next module. The curved modules are a bit harder to do, because of having to bend the Steel rail. I bend the rail by hand as I don’t have a rail bender. It takes a bit or trial and error to get it the right radius, but in the end it works out. I also make Switch modules using the same method and have made four #5 turnouts so far using the steel rail. however I think all furture turnouts will be made using the Aluminum rail.

You can see a few photos of these modules on my web site. http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html Click on the projects link and you can see them.

Dan S.
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern.