Large Scale Central

Alternative for LGB Coach Light Connectors

Electronics
#1

Aloha,

I am about to order a bunch of stuff to continue lighting our passenger coaches. LGB used to sell small, cylindrical connectors with a male and female ends. Littyle screws made them fast to the the bitter ends of their coach lights. This let you string a bunch of cars together from a power source. What is the commercial name for these connectors? Or is their an equally easy to wire and easy to use unobtrusive alternative? We need to uncouple our coaches to store them, so quick disconnect is a priority.

Thanks,

Eric

#2

I did mine this way with 9v battery pack, has on and off switch, pigtails to run up into the car. I switched all my lights to LED’s, but you can still use the incandescent lights if you wish. This way each car as there own light system and you just reach under the car and slide the switch on or off. Plus the battery is serviced from under the car and no need to remove the roof, etc.

trainman

#3

Eric Mueller said:

Aloha,

I am about to order a bunch of stuff to continue lighting our passenger coaches. LGB used to sell small, cylindrical connectors with a male and female ends. Littyle screws made them fast to the the bitter ends of their coach lights. This let you string a bunch of cars together from a power source. What is the commercial name for these connectors? Or is their an equally easy to wire and easy to use unobtrusive alternative? We need to uncouple our coaches to store them, so quick disconnect is a priority.

Thanks,

Eric

Pics of battery pack on car and battery pack, trainman

#4

Eric,

Our friends at Trainli can help, see link below.

https://www.trainli.com/lgb-electric-connectors-cables-p-287

Michael

#5

I like the battery packs, copper foil for wiringtop and if you use LED’s they last forever

#6

Gents,

@Michael: “Banana Plugs.” I had no idea that was the proper term! No wonder I could never find them in an internet search!

@John & Bill: I had been using a single battery pack per car as you guys doing, building my light strips per Bill’s example (Still can’t find the screws to mount them (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)! Using friction for the moment…). If the batteries last as long as you say, it might be cheaper just to continue on this line. We typically run cars in certain sets, so I had thought to use one battery pack to in a combine / caboose / baggage car, then just run the wires from car to car connecting them with what I see are “banana plugs.”

I’ll have to run the math on this (plugs vs. battery packs; est. cost of batteries; shipping for electronic bits).

Eric

#7

Eric, I have been using the following on my USAT Heavyweights which I am converting to batter power.

https://miniatronics.com/collections/micro-mini-connectors-1/products/2-pin-micro-mini-connector-with-12-flexible-leads-2-units

They are small and look like hose connections between cars to boot.

#8

Dear John,
In regards to your post, would one not need two 9V batteries since the old style lights are 18 V, or am I mistaken? I am looking for an easy way to light up my European style taillamps at the end of my LGB brakemans wagon. If you have any advice or even a link to what you use, that would be greatly appreciated!

-Alexander

#9

the original concept of LGB was to light the cars with trackpower.
then 0 - 18V DC.
the lamps started to glow somewhere around 3 to 4 volt. the quicker the train, the brighter the lights.

did you look under that wagon? if the taillamps were there from factory, there is a chance that the wagon has an electrical pick up on one of the axles.

and welcome!

1 Like
#10

Aloha, Alexander! Welcome to LSC!

Eric

1 Like
#11

Try it with one. Often a single 9V gives the light a more realistic dim glow.

#12

Thank you for the info and welcome! This question was for the LGB Berliner breakman’s wagon that I have. The lamps were bought seperate. I currently have the track power ball bearing wheels from LGB powering my caboose lights but wanted to see if there was something else that was less expensive without being funny.

#13

I use 9V battery holders with the on/off switch, these are black plastic and will fit up under your passenger cars, or cabooses. I order them from eBay, about $12.00 for four, plus I order 3mm and 5mm LED’S in packs of 20, about $10.00 or so a pack, these will have the leeds on them, plus a resistor, and you want the 12v ones. In the cars I would use the 5mm LED’s, two will give plenty of light, but I do use resistors to dim the light to my liking. 3mm LED’s for marker lamps, etc. I do away with all factory lighting and switch to the LED’s, they will last a long time. Can’t get much cheaper then this and excellent results. I will see if I have a pic of a car with this setup, you can see the battery box underneath, looks like it goes there. I stuck mine on with double sticky tape.

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#14

if you look at the rear end of your loco, you might see two plugholes, or a plastic cover with a female plug beneath. all (most/many?) LGB locos used to have these.

a thin cable running from there through/under the whole train to the lanterns could be an option.

#15

This is true, but you now have cars daisy chained together, plus they can flicker depending how the engine is making contact with the track and plugging and unplugging wires is just something else to do. As far as cost, battery holder, LED’s, extra wire can’t be more then $5.00 per car. I realize this can be somewhat new technology for some modelers, but I feel many would help those who need it.