Large Scale Central

Airwire / USA Trains

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

I am still on my quest for my first battery powered locomotive!
Also, looking to make this as easy and painless as possible.

While looking at USA Trains website I found there add using a plug n play Airwire setup, probably not news for all the battery people, but was news too me.

I am looking for my winter project (along with building a few Piko buildings I recently acquired)
Has anyone installed this system?
Is it easy?
Does it work well?

I will be taking my yearly trip to Charles Ro in the near future (Christmas shopping for me!) and I am thinking of picking up a GP38 and possibly this system.
Card, controller, Battery, Phoenix sound card.

Thanks,
Vinny

#2

Vinny,

Its great! If you have a newer GP38 it doesn’t get any easier than this. The newer run GP38s have improved lighting circuits with different plugs etc…

The only change I would suggest is making your own charge circuit. This will ensure power is cut from the airwire board when shut off. The integrated power switch and charge plug is fine, but I like the idea of a heavy duty DPDT and fuse between the battery and RC just in case the smoke comes out.

#3

I was looking to buy a brand new GP38 so it would have the new plug & play setup.
I have all older USA trains, none of them have any setup for battery without re-wiring everything.

Easy is what I am looking for!, thanks!

#4

You can still use the drop-in decoder with the older models too, but it requires some simple modifications. The standard G3 works too, but I think the drop in is a cleaner installation. Have fun…you won’t regret this! Any thoughts on batteries?

I’m still using NiMH from battery space, but perhaps you’ll go with the Li-ions that Airwire offers.

#5

So I don’t mess anything up if I go with this setup I was just going to buy the battery Airwire offers.

#6

Vin does not get any easier have used airwire for a lot of years. i here Jeff but i have never add a 2nd fuse the board has a fuse built into it. I would also go to one of the online outlets for the airwire like rld or treefarm i know if you call rob he will help a lot he has sold airwire for a long time good luck and have fun.

richard

#7

Its pretty much plug and play. If your smoke system has a fan, no modifications are needed… usually. It all depends on whether the lights are LED or not. if LED, you are good to go. Go here for how to install the oldstyle chassis.

http://www.cvpusa.com/doc_center/r2_nonstandard_lighting_GP38.pdf

I used a 14.8 volt, 5200 mAh LIon battery, mounted over the rear truck, replacing the rear weight in my GP9.

I use the Tenergy TB6AC Smart Charger, without worry. Its smart enough to know when the battery is full.

#8

Vin as you said you are getting a new 38 so it is just a drop in, here is the installation guide

http://www.cvpusa.com/doc_center/GP38_install.pdf

have fun

#9

Thanks for the replies, there is a good chance this is the way I will be going.
Richard I will check out the install guide, thanks for posting it!’.
.
Now to decide what road name GP38!
Leaning towards Maine Central if they have it (shows in stock)!

#10

Vince, unless you are dead set on buying a new GP 38, you can install the drop in G3 into the older chassis, the fix is easy. It plugs right in, with just a bit of fuss on the lights. See the link in my last post, above. Certainly less expensive than a whole new loco.

#11

Thanks Steve, I will check that link out also.
Still think I will get a new GP38 (don’t have one in my collection yet) but I have a few older USAT diesels I may want to convert.

#12

If I’m not mistaken, the drop-in GP38 IS a G3 decoder. The G3 is great for all kinds of custom lighting features.

#13

Gary Armitstead said:

If I’m not mistaken, the drop-in GP38 IS a G3 decoder. The G3 is great for all kinds of custom lighting features.

You are correct, Gary. The Drop In is a rearranged G-3. Very nice.

#14

Vincent D’Agostino said:
Thanks Steve, I will check that link out also. Still think I will get a new GP38 (don’t have one in my collection yet) but I have a few older USAT diesels I may want to convert.

Ahhh… My mistake, I thought that you already had an older GP-38.

#15

Everything has arrived!!
Now I just need time and a LOT of patience to do the install… I may be waiting a while!

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/AirWire_zps5a07172b.jpg)

#16

Vincent D’Agostino said:

Everything has arrived!!
Now I just need time and a LOT of patience to do the install… I may be waiting a while!

(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/139vinny/Trains/AirWire_zps5a07172b.jpg)

That is why i use it no time and no patience hardest part is drilling a hole for p8 programmer and hot glue for speaker and mount P8 don’t use toggle switch for sound volume

#17

I have 2 GP-9’s, and a GP-30 with A/W very easy to do.

Don

#18

I installed a G3 and found that is is very close to DCC in programming/operation.

I do rewire the USA Trains engines and chang out the weak leds to common anode bright leds. Hugh difference as you can see the lights outdoors now.

Features I like about the G3:

i smoke output that can be any Function key.

DCC control of phoenix sound card via remote hand held.

short and long addressing I like to use 4 digits.

#19

are you done yet?

#20

I had a few Piko buildings to build first!
This is on my workbench and I have it scheduled for this Saturday!