Large Scale Central

Advice needed on Bachmann Spectrum 1:20.3 master series 2-6-0 mo

I hope that some of you long time large scalars can give me some advice on how to proceed with gear replacement on some 1:20.3 master series Bachmann locomotives. I have a friend that gave me two Bachmann Spectrum Master series locomotives that had broken gears in the gearbox. These are the 4-4-0 American and the 2-6-0 Mogul. Both have the same problem with broken gears. I know that it is the gears without taking them apart as you can push them down the track and the drivers roll freely.

The advice I need is two fold, the first one being, which replacement gears should I get, metal or delrin?

The second is how should I go about removing the gearbox and removing the old gears. I don’t have any users manual or service manual on how to take them apart. The roll so nice and smooth now, I want to make sure that after I replace the gears that everything goes back like it should.

Are the axles quartered, so that when I remove one of the drivers that I can get it back on without having to buy a NWSL quarter-er tool?

Any Help would be appreciated.

Dan

You’ve got to drop the bottom plate that holds the bearing blocks in place in order to drop out the motor and gear assembly. A bunch of little screws to either side of each axle into the frame. Careful to make sure when you drop this that the springs that are between the top of the bearing block and the top of the frame don’t get lost. With that plate out of the way and the siderods removed (hint: do this first), you should be able to drop the motor and gearbox assembly. Next step is to remove the drivers. There’s a small cap over the center of each driver that hides a screw. Gently pry that off with a flat-head screwdriver to reveal the phillips head screw beneath. Remove that screw, and gently pull the wheels off the axle. The drivers are quartered, so you don’t need to worry about that. Remove the bearing block, paying attention to its orientation. (And don’t lose the springs.) Then you’ll want to remove all the eccentrics and valve gear stuff. Hint - clamp or tape all that stuff together so it doesn’t come apart. That way you can easily put it back together once you’re done.

Now, you should have the motor, gearbox, and axle. I forget exactly how to take the gearbox apart, but I think it’s six or so screws from the side that expose the gears. With that open, you can inspect the gears to figure out where the problem is. 99% of the time, it’s going to be the main gear on the axle that’s split. You have a few options.

  1. If it’s just the hub that’s cracked and loose on the axle, but the outside part of the gear is intact, you can get some 3/8" brass tubing, cut some thin slices off, and reinforce the hub of the gear with that. A little JB Weld and you’re good to go. I did one that way and it’s held up nicely since.

  2. Call Bachmann service and get a replacement gear (if they have them). This should be around a $3 gear. Once you get that gear, get some 3/8" brass tubing, cut some thin slices to reinforce the hub, JB Weld in place, and reassemble. (You don’t “need” to do that, but you’ll just have to open the gearbox up down the road to do so or replace the gear again.

  3. Order a replacement Delrin gear from Northwest ShortLine (Part # 2223-6, $12.95). This is a Delrin gear which has proven to be quite a bit stronger than the stock gear. To my knowledge, no one makes a metal replacement gear.

If it’s not the main axle gear that’s broken, then your only option is to call Bachmann and get a replacement for that gear, or a replacement motor/gear assembly.

Of course, if you’re adventurous and don’t mind doing some cutting and fitting, I’ve pondered fitting a BBT B’mann 2-8-0 replacement motor/gearbox in one of my 2-6-0s. I’m pretty sure there’s ample room in the boiler, but you’d have to cut away some of the bottom so the gear tower could extend up. You’d also probably lose the operating reverse gear (no big loss, if it means the loco runs reliably.) Some day, I’ll splurge for one and experiment. (Or, Barry will develop a replacement gearbox, hint, hint. :wink:

Good luck!

Later,

K

Just curious…I was under the impression that Bachmann had a life-time warranty of sorts. Why not just send them back in a box to Bachmann?

john papadonis said:
Just curious....I was under the impression that Bachmann had a life-time warranty of sorts. Why not just send them back in a box to Bachmann?
First, they'll charge; second, you'll have to ship it back; and third, the gear you'll get has the same issue as the current one. Better to just get the NWSL gear and not worry about it again.

Thanks Kevin: that the information I needed. I don’t think I will have any problems getting it all apart and repaired now. I was concerned that I would need a Wheel Quarter-er in order to put the drivers back on. I will probably order the Delrin gears from NWSL and be done with it. It it runs as smoothly after the gear is replaced I will be happy. Right now with a broken gear it rolls very smooth with no binding anywhere.

Dan

Kevin: I looked at the NWSL catalog and at the gear you mentioned. the 2223-6 is a 24 tooth gear, the gear that I removed is a 25 tooth gear. I am thinking that the 2226-6 gear should be the replacement as it is for the Fn3 2-8-0 The Bore or hole for the axle is the same diameter, the only difference is the outside diameter. The 2223-6 is 15.5mm in diameter where as the 2226-6 is 15.8mm in diameter.

What are your thoughts.

Dan S.

I had read that the 4-4-0/2-6-0 and the 2-8-0 used the same gear at one point, but then someone pointed me to the two separate NWSL gears having a different number of teeth, so I accepted that they were different. I just opened up the gearbox from a 2-6-0 (it’s a spare, I didn’t disassemble a loco to do so), and mine, too, has 25 teeth. Naturally, I now can’t find my spare 2-8-0 gearbox to compare the two gears, but it seems the original school of thought that the locos all use the same gear appears to be accurate. (And it could also be that the 4-4-0/2-6-0 used both?)

Later,

K

That is a good possibility that they could use both. It is not uncommon for a manufacturer swap parts to a different one if they are running short of the original. It happens all the time in the toy business. I am going to order the 25 Tooth one as that is want was in it. Not sure the 24 Tooth one would mesh properly.

Thanks for the input.

Dan Stuettgen
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html

I just found my surplus 2-8-0 gearbox, and–yep–same gear. Go with the 2-8-0 replacement and be happy.

Later,

K

Kevin: Got the 25 tooth gears from NWSL and got it installed in the 4-4-0. It was easier than I thought it would be. The bore was smaller than the axle shaft so I had to drill it out a tiny bit. Since the axle is 1/4" I used a drill bit one step small than the 1/4" one. I then used my drill press to press the axle through the gear until it was centered. After everything was reassembled, I powered it up and it ran nice and smooth. Now I have to tackle the 2-6-0. I think I will photograph each step in dis assembly, new gear installation and then re-assembly and do a nice tutorial on it.

I would like to hear from others that has had to replace these gears and see if theirs were 24 tooth or 25 tooth.

Dan
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern
https://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html

My 2-8-0 that just cracked is a 25 tooth one also.

Here is a link to a detailed “How To” on these locomotives gear replacement. It’s posted on the Bachmann Large Scale FAQ topic forum.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,19904.0.html

Hi,

Thanks to JD Miller for that very helpful article and the superb photos which will help me immensely when I replace my gear which has failed.

Much appreciated.

Yours Peter

JD, I read the article and that is pretty much how I replaced the gear on my 4-4-0, except I took out the eccentrics completely when I dis-assembled the drivers, and I used my drill press to press the axle through the gear. It made it a lot easier the using a hammer and deep socket to do it. I have a piece of wood that had a 5/16" hole drilled in it and I placed the gear over the hole and then use the chuck to force the axle into the bore hole of the gear. A few seconds was all it took to get the axle pressed into the gear and get it centered.

My question to the group and anyone that has replaced the gear on either the 4-4-0 or the 2-6-0 was, did the gear they removed have 24 teeth or 25 teeth? My 4-4-0 had a 25 tooth gear and not 24 tooth one. So I had to use the 2226-6 25 tooth gear for the Fn3 2-8-0 and not the 2223-6 24 tooth gear for the 4-4-0 and 2-6-0 that NWSL lists on their website.

It seemed to me that I should replace the gear with the same number of teeth that I removed. Maybe my engines were an anomaly when it came to the gears, maybe there was a screw up in the factory when they were made, who knows!

Dan S.
Colorado & Rio Grande Southern
http://danshobbies.webstarts.com/index.html