Large Scale Central

Addition to the arsenal

Tools and Tips
#1

Hi all,

Mini-Review of a 9" bandsaw:

Make and Model: Ryobi BS902

Small but has all the right features for LS modeling. I really like the lock and adjust features of the table (tilts to 45º), the blade guide (rack and pinion) and the tensioning mechanism of the blade (has a cleaning brush, too)

Also has a 2 1/2" connection for the dust exhaust, a work light and will cut up to 3 5/8" (nominal) thickness, has a rip fence with quicklock lever and a mitre gauge. The mitre gauge is a bit sloppy in the table slot, but that can be fixed.

Tested on some 1 x 2 pine, including cutting radii. Feed it nice and slow and it will cut exactly where I want it to cut. I like it!

The first “job” will be cutting some rough sawn scale timber for a project.

#2

No pictures…no price…how much does it weigh??

#3

Warren Mumpower said:
No pictures…no price…how much does it weigh??

Picture courtesy of HomeDepot Canada Can$ 139 (Apparently there’s a special offer on these in the USA) Weight 17.8kg (37lbs) Pictures of work samples and set-up at the shop to follow. :wink: :slight_smile:

#4

What did you do to take up the slop in the miter slot?

Regards, Greg

#5

Greg Elmassian said:
What did you do to take up the slop in the miter slot? Regards, Greg

Greg, Haven’t decided yet, but either one of two will work a) cut a thin strip of .020" brass shimstock and glue to bar, stone to fit. b) drill and tap a hole into both ends of the bar, insert a brass screw that bottoms out in the hole, cut and machine screw to proper length. Stone screw ends slightly convex so that they can’t bind in the table slot. © Machining a new bar, but that’s more work than the other fixes. Yes, the difference between the bar and the slot is .020", which in the “trade” is referred to as a “throw fit” stand at a distance and throw it at the mating part; it will fit! Not to be confused with the condition when someone throws a fit!! :wink: :slight_smile:

#6

Not impuning the honor of your band saw, but that’s remarkably sloppy… weird.

I like the brass shim…

Regards, Greg

#7
Greg Elmassian said:
Not impuning the honor of your band saw, but that's remarkably sloppy... weird.

I like the brass shim…

Regards, Greg


Greg,

Just got back from the shop, putting the beast through a few paces.

On that sloppy fit, that’s not a huge surprise. I’ve bought several pieces of equipment and worked on lots of others that were of Asian extraction. The first milling machine I bought (1980) had to be dismantled in order to get it down a ramp and through the door. While it was apart I decided to check a few things and then proceeded to refit/rescrape the ways.

But back to the bandsaw, I cut a few RhB size ties. Looking very nice just like the “old-timey” stuff from long ago. Just reasonably soft pine and cedar. Then I dressed some “logs” like they use for log cabins, hardwood doweling was a bit tricky, but cedar doweling worked like a charm. For dressing the logs I need a wider sawblade, that will keep her straight at higher feeds.

Next was some styrofoam, cutting off 1mm slivers. That’s as narrow as they would get, short of flaking off.

Sure looks like this will do whatever I have in mind so far. :wink: :slight_smile:

#8

Rough-sawn ties

I like the texture of the blade showing. Weathered with the usual “Ink & Alci-Mixture”

#9

Igot a Delta…basically the same…I do tha Large dimension on the table saw…and cut the small dimension on the bandsaw…change blades frequently, cause when they get dull…they wander…

#10

Kevin,

I slept on it. :wink:

The “desired solution” is a plastic pushpin instead of a nail, won’t mar the alu table. The way I use the fence it will work “just dandy”. :wink:

Thanks!

Don’t know yet how many logs I’ll do but the “method” is ready. But I’m in the selection process for the first square timber structure.

Bart,

The blade tracks perfectly when ripping soft pine. Tends to deflect a bit in hardwood doweling unless the feed is very, very slow at the start. But as mentioned a 3/8" blade should improve that.

#11

Yeah works good on Poplar, pine, cedar ( I use it to rip ties) 3/8 blade with 4-6 tpi…but when the blade dulls change it…its gone…even a short strightcut for a tie looks wobbly…

#12

How long do the blades last?

Can they be economically sharpened, or is it cheaper to toss them and get new ones?

#13

If you are serious about bandsaws , and not getting ripped off (pun) , a good look at the Proxxon saw will do wonders .
Engineered an order better than the one shown above , it will cost more , but does not require re-engineering of things like fences , gizmos , etc .
Also backed up by a very competent company who specialise in producing good solid machinery for the advanced (slightly ) hobbyist . Also known to cut brass --by design , not chance .

PROXXON RULES – OK ? Try keying in Proxxon , and have a look . My well being does not extend yet to taking pics of the one in my workshop , nor its companion tools by Proxxon . Drills , Sanders , X-Y tables , and so fifth–better than so forth .

Mike

#14

I guess it would depend on how much cutting you do…You can tell when they start going south…I don;t think you can sharpen a bandsaw blade…well then again I’m sure ya can, but replacement blades are $10 or so why bother…

#15
Bart Salmons said:
I guess it would depend on how much cutting you do.....You can tell when they start going south.....I don;t think you can sharpen a bandsaw blade.....well then again I'm sure ya can, but replacement blades are $10 or so why bother.....
Bart,

Treat it gently and get lots of cutting for the money. :wink:

#16

Treat it gently ???

Gordon Bennet , hans , you do say some daft things .

Saws is fer cuttin’ . If it’s any good , gently is hardly the word for dismembering brass or hard woods . If it isn’t fit for the job , don’t buy it .
We have similar cheapo stuff available in the UK . Getting running parts(consumables) is not possible . Any esoteric spare , like a nylon bush for blade tracking ,is not available .
It is a false economy buying cheap tools . They are cheap for a reason . Better far to get one you can rely on . It may even allow you to FINISH a model .

Mike

#17

I guess I am from the other side of the tracks, size wise. I have a 14" Powermatic that I use to cut almost all of my strip wood. I buy the more “expensive” blades (Timberwolf or Lenox) because they last conciderably longer than the cheaper blades. I also buy them 2 at a time. When I break one, I have the spare handy. I use the widest blade possible to help with tracking.

Glen

#18

Glen,

I looked at the larger models - overkill for what I need. :wink:

Yes, I will be buying higher quality blades (in twos), for the time being the “el cheapo” cuts what I want to cut right now.

I have no plans to start producing trestels or other wooden bridges etc. etc. Everything else was a matter of “let’s see how that would work”. And it works. :slight_smile: :wink: Nah, I won’t be building a piano either, I got the bandsaw to get that rough sawn finish required on certain products/projects.

Just for kicks I was running it without the dust extractor hook-up, whoa … lots of fine dust and chips in a short time! Practically none once the hose was connected. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:

#19

HJ,

I have been building some Garden Texture buildings and some of the plans from Garden Railways. I found I can get basswood boards from Woodcrafters at about $4 a board foot. Sure beats $3 for 5 sticks. I am using redwood fence boards and cedar fence boards for all of the buildings. I have been practicing at getting down to 1/16" by 1/16" sticks pretty regularly.

I know what you mean by the dust. It is so nice not to come in from the shop leaving little piles of dust and then there is the whole breathing thing…

Glen

#20
Glen Simpson said:
.........................

I am using redwood fence boards and cedar fence boards for all of the buildings. I have been practicing at getting down to 1/16" by 1/16" sticks pretty regularly.

I know what you mean by the dust. It is so nice not to come in from the shop leaving little piles of dust and then there is the whole breathing thing…

Glen


Glen,

I’m allergic to Cedar dust, cutting - except with a knife - and sanding of that is kept to an absolute minimum. Wood dust in general is tricky enough, the dust extractor in the shop runs very regularly. :wink: :slight_smile: