Now that I’ve finally got my Ruby up and running after 15 or so years, I realized that RC was probably the way to go with it. I found a servo mount and servos but with me being in the RC plane hobby for years, I already had a ton of small serv, receivers, and transmitters. All I needed was the mount so I milled up a mount from some 3/8” aluminu, mounte the servos, then mounted the whole thing with two 2/56 screws up through the rear wood end rail. Pulled the posi pin from the direction lever and installed some push rods after checking the geometry of the servo arms tothe throttle and DC arm. Took a spare 2.4 Chinese transmitter and pulled the centering spring off the elevator gimbal and put on a friction spring that drops into a detent groove I cut in the gimbal so the stick will stay in center or neutral when put there. Think im going to makeup a nice little tender for the battery and receiver to keep them away from the heat.
Really nice. Got to figure how to do that withna mason
so I milled up a mount from some 3/8” aluminu,
For anyone whithout a mill and skill (i.e. me) there’s a guy on eBay who has been selling a servo mounting block for the Ruby for many years.
lorna dane said:
Really nice. Got to figure how to do that withna mason
Assuming you mean the Accucraft Mason Bogie (I just acquired a Rishon large bogie 
be aware that the valve gear is quite complicated as it passes over the top of the boiler to the swivelling truck.
Winn Erdman did a whole thread on MLS about the install, but the photos are messed up (standard MLS problem.) You could message Winn and ask for copies.
https://forums.mylargescale.com/18-live-steam/19634-installing-rc-mason-bogies.html
I saw the servo mount on eBay and because it came complete with servos I realized I didn’t need to spend that much money when I already had every, just had to make it up. I decided to make a battery/receiver car out of a scientific tender I found at the dump. I actually found the whole train so it will make up a good consist for the Ruby, especially after some paint. Installed a switch, receiver, and square AA battery pack in the tender. Ran the two servo leads in shrink tubingthe same way that scientific ran the battery line feed to the plastic loco. So now my Ruby has a tender and RC control. The problem is I can’t seem to get it right. It’s running in reverse much better than forwards and I spent a considerable amount of time (hours) adjusting and timing it on air yet it won’t quite run right. It won’t move out on its own inmost cases and requires just a little nudge. I did read where that problem is often associated with the pisto O rings so I think I’m going to order some up and see if it helps.
How does one post additional pictures on a thread?
Ted Brito said:
How does one post additional pictures on a thread?
When you joined Bob gave you space in the Freight Shed > Manage my folder > Name a folder and > add pics.
We suggest sizing down to 800 pixels wide before uploading to save space, although larger can be uploaded.
I open the pic and copy and paste where I want it. OR you can right click on the opened pic and copy it’s location and paste that in the pic pop up box (mountain and sun icon in header).
After inserting pic, click on Enter to mover cursor below to spot next pic. Omitting this fails to set pic. I place my cursor on the lower right corner then Enter … cursor moves below the pic…
It’s running in reverse much better than forwards and I spent a considerable amount of time (hours) adjusting and timing it on air yet it won’t quite run right.
That’s a common problem for the Ruby. There’s a bunch of instructions on MLS about fixing the problem of inside versus outside admission. “Optional Step 3 - Setting Ruby Valve Timing for Inside Admission (Hottmann Method) - By Dave Hottmann” is part of a document I have that I will send you or upload - it’s a PDF with lots of photos called “Ruby Adjustments” by Dave Hottman.
Let’s try this: http://www.largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/15619/ruby-adjustment-pdf
Thanks for This. I’m going to try these adjustments and might try the Bill Allen fix for opening up the ports slightly to decrease the lag. Going to change to inside admission first and see how well that works.
Some updated pictures.
Ted,
What transmitter and receiver do you recommend to get to be compatible with the eBay seller’s servo package?
I have little experience with this kind of R/C. I use the Revo system in my R/C battery powered locos.
Pete Thornton said:
It’s running in reverse much better than forwards and I spent a considerable amount of time (hours) adjusting and timing it on air yet it won’t quite run right.
That’s a common problem for the Ruby. There’s a bunch of instructions on MLS about fixing the problem of inside versus outside admission. “Optional Step 3 - Setting Ruby Valve Timing for Inside Admission (Hottmann Method) - By Dave Hottmann” is part of a document I have that I will send you or upload - it’s a PDF with lots of photos called “Ruby Adjustments” by Dave Hottman.
Let’s try this: http://www.largescalecentral.com/filesharing/file/view/15619/ruby-adjustment-pdf
I tried your link and got:
The API information has not been configured.
Me too, but there is (should be) a button on the right hand side that says DOWNLOAD and you can get the file.
(the site is not set up to be able to fire off a PDF viewer automatically it seems)
If you have trouble I can download the file and email to you.
Greg
Thanks,
Saved it for my future build.
Changed my Ruby over to inside admission and it’s running really good but still a little better in reverse. When I get a chance to get back to it, I’m going to try and adjust it again. Going to drill the ports out to .073 also as it makes the engine easier to time plus supposedly adds power.
Joe Zullo said:
Ted,
What transmitter and receiver do you recommend to get to be compatible with the eBay seller’s servo package?
I have little experience with this kind of R/C. I use the Revo system in my R/C battery powered locos.
Hi joe, I answered this but somehow it never posted. Sorry this answer has taken so long. With the systems available now, most all, even the cheap ones will offer good performance. I would recommend the Tactic 4 channel trans, a 4 channel receiver, and the switch harness with dry cell battery pack. Later on you could go with rechargeable batteries if you want. I don’t know of a trans made now that offers a right stick that isn’t self centering so the trans will have to be opened up, the centering spring removed, a friction spring installed, and I add a centering notch so the gimbal will stay in neutral until moved. Tower hobbies sells the Tactic systems and all the pieces should cost more than $50 or so. The servos offered on eBay with the Ruby mount will fit the Tactic system because it uses the Futaba type J plug. They Tactic system will also accept the JR/Hitec standard servo plugs. Horizon Hobby also sells Tactic systems too.
I bought the servos and bracket from the eBay seller and the radio gear from Tony Walsham (RCS) in Australia. Bits and pieces from Servo City and the Train Department.
It’s been running pretty well after tweaking the valve timing and reversing the steam admission to “inside”.
I took off the side tanks, and made running boards. The batteries and radio receiver are in the tender I added for the purpose.
Nice job!
I ran it today on our unfinished club layout (point to point right now). It performed perfectly and was marvelous! (https://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
