Large Scale Central

Acme Pawn & Eastside Mower Repair Shop Craig's 2023 MIK

I don’t remember where I bought them from but I do recall I had them specifically made. I’ve got 1 18" one with 1/29 on side and 1/1 on the other, then a 24" one with 1/29 and 1/87. The 18" one is plastic and the 24" is metal. Years ago on MLS a guy was making them.

I’ve also got a 12" 1/29 ruler from CTT Inc ( not sure if they are around either) they made pretty much all scales in rulers.

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@ctown2

Thank you Craig! After a couple different searches I found the ruler listed on Trainz, part # CTT 9022, 1:22.5 scale. Out of stock searched again with the correct part number and found 2 at KITLINX in Salt Lake City, UT. One is now on order coming to me!

It does appear they are not currently in production. If Kitlinx’s info online is correct, they still should have one in stock.

Craig how do you cut your thick styrene. I bought that sheet of thick stuff ( I don’t remember how thick but thick) and its a bear to cut through and doesn’t really score and snap as clean as i like. Cut offs I can manage but cut outs like windows???

I cut it a couple different ways. The stuff I’m using for the structure is 1/8" thick.

  1. Full sized table saw with a very vet slow feed rate. I didn’t use the saw for this stuff as my fence needs adjustment to get more square.
  2. Mini table saw. Again slow feed rate. It will get the plastic burrs but not as bad as the full sized saw. I use this mostly for smaller pieces.
  3. A dental tool. Specifically a SH6/76 scaler I got years ago from my dentist. I actually had about a half dozen but over the years I’ve snapped the tips and/grown down the tips to the point they aren’t useful anymore. This actually removes the styrene as you draw it across. I generally score and snap, but sometimes I’ll score all the way through.
    Scalers/Curettes H6/H7, DE Scaler, #6 Satin Steel, SH6/76

As for the windows. I just chain drill and the sand to fit with a Dremel or needle file. I really need to buy a nibbler for this but just never have.

Yes!!

:grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:

So I ended up starting to cut 4.5" strips (.154" vs the .156" strip stock) and glued on a few pieces. I’m trying not to be to critical at the moment because I know with some paint it will help blend it all in. Definitely need to make sure it’s all mostly the same widths and it’s all glued on the same side of the lines.

Last year when I cut strips on the min saw, I used a wider chunk of scrap wood as a push stick. But I tossed it, so I grabbed and old push stick from the big saw and leveled it off. Keeps the fingers a bit higher from the saw but I think it might need more surface area to get a good hold down. But I only cut 3 strips last night so I’m sure I’ll perfect the method soon.

@Devon_Sinsley

MicroMark sells a scriber. Never have used it but it’s about half the price of the dental tool or twice the price if you can get them for free. Ask your dentist if they have any scalers.

Not sure if the eye can detect a two mil difference there, but that’s awesome you’re going for it Craig!

Well I just can’t afford a whole buildings worth of .156" strip so I’m cutting them myself. Technically I think it should be more like 5.5" wide but I don’t think the gap between the boards would be as easy to make and it would get filled with primer & paint.

I’m still trying to figure out how Evergreen styrene cuts these strips. I mean the tiny ones go down to .010x .010. They must use a laser or something.

Just a guess but I think they are extruded not cut.

Since lasers melt styrene so badly, I’m thinking they use CNC knife cutters of some sort.

FWIW, here’s one guy’s approach to precise knifing of styrene:

I’m picturing a blocking surface mounted parallel to the cut, at an adjustable distance to the blade, so that you only have to slam the sheet home, slice the strip, and repeat.

There’s gotta be commercial products like this available already though, right? Maybe from NWSL, makers of the Chopper products?

If that’s the case then they would get plastic pellets in and “make” the styrene first. I can definitely see extruded for the C, H, I and T shapes.

I’ve seen/heard of a few folks using a Circut or other CNC knife things to cut styrene. Not sure if it would cut .030" thick.

The recommended max plastic thickness for the Cricut is .02"

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A buddy of mine said .030 is doable but takes a few more passes.

If I got one in the future, I’d also like to use it to cut paint masks.

The Cricut line is very much evolving, check out the Maker III:

https://cricut.com/cricut-maker

I bought in at the “Air” level, and it has nowhere that capability.

Oh great I started looking at Facebook marketplace for Circuit and/Silhouette cutters now. Actually quite a few for sale locally for decent prices.

If I hadn’t already blown my Christmas and hobby money for a while. Oops.

It works great for masks. Cutting plastic is tricky as the work piece is held by placing on a sticky mat. The plastic tends to shift on the mat. I’ve used tape around the edges to combat this but the more intricate the design, the greater chance of shift. Mine is an Explore Air 2.

I have used my Circuit to cut styrene but it is limited to thickness. But where it won’t always cut it , it will score it and then you can snap it.

I’m going to start looking around ( and letting the wife know) for a Silhouette Camo 4.

The Camo 4 might be a bit of overkill but a few folks have recommended it and said they would upgrade if the current one failed.

Just a casual look last night on Facebook marketplace showed quite a few different options. Michelle said she sees different cutters post quite often in her for sale groups so if I can give her a specific name she can keep an eye out. Shoot it worked for the acquisition of the 3d printer…

I was giving Rick a hard time for the mindless task of embossing brick. I didn’t realize I had my own mindless task of cutting strips on the mini table saw.

1 wall done. A lot more to go.