The best I can do as a drawing…
Still more work needed on the mock-up.
Your attention to historical detail will make this a very enjoyable build to watch, Craig.
No need for a snappy reply. I like where its going. The pawn shop is a cool building.
I have a feeling I could go really crazy on the interior details with some 3d printed parts. But I think I’m going to hold of on the interior until later. I have a few buildings that will need interiors due to the big windows.
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One building mocked up in foam core. It’s only 16" by 32" so it’s fairly small. For me this is the best “napkin drawing” I have.
Gathering/organizing supplies to see how I can tackle the shiplap siding. The Acme Pawn Shop building is almost easier I think to build as two separate buildings since they have two different shapes and styles.
I’m going to try and hit the late 80’s look of having metal roofing but still retaining the shiplap and board and batten siding. I know I can do the board and batten easy based off last year’s building, but still thinking about how I can do the shiplap.
One option is to cut 5" wide strips and then apply them individually with a 1" gap. About option is try cutting a groove with my .030" mini table saw blade and spacing those out. I don’t think the full sized saw would be a good choice as the slots would be closer to 4" wide.
For the metal roofing, I think I’ll just cut styrene strips for those and glue those on top of 1/8" sheet. Since I have plenty of 1/8" sheet on hand, I’ll be using that as a substructure like the depot.
Fwiw, I did metal roofing on my general store a few Mik’s ago.
The process was:
- cut PVC sheet to cover the roof
- use a straight edge and a scribe to make grooves to represent the joints between sections
- glue in 3/64” styrene rod to represent the joints (not accurate of course, but nobody notices it)
This was suggested to me by a fowl who frequents LSC.
It worked just fine for me, though of course your mileage may vary.
Interesting approach. I may end up just using the same anti skid tape that I used last year for a shingled roof again as I can’t pinpoint the date of the switch from shingled to metal but I’m guessing it corresponds to the siding redo as well.
Got myself thinking, what’s really inside a pawn shop? Lots of just random stuff…
Maybe I could pull off detailing the inside.
A few cabinets lining the walls, a few shelves stacked with stuff.
If I really wanted to go crazy that could mean finding and printing off random tools, etc that I could find online, but I think just grabbing random styrene from the scrap pile is more in style with the MIK build. Will ponder this some more before I can start.
Here’s a list of what I think of in a pawn shop:
Hand tools
Jewelry
Books
Small power tools
“Collectables”
The smell over stale cigarette smoke…
Just overall clutter and junk with hardly any aisle space…
Or maybe that’s just the few pawn stores I’ve been in. 
I frequented pawn shops during the late 80’s and I would say Gold jewelry was most common But most of the shelves were filled with home audio equipment. Also musical instruments and guns.
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Dan,
I better watch out, next thing I know I’ll have files in my in box from you for home audio equipment and musical instruments! lol
Not sure how I could scale down the gold jewelry, but the cases would be fairly easy to bash.
Unless Dan has a secret method for searching 3d print files, I’m having a hard time finding stuff in 1:87 ( I figured more detail parts in HO and just upscale).
I learned long ago it’s far easier for me to draw something than edit someone else’s design. However,
VCR’s, TV’s , Walkman’s, and other music related equipment was commonly pawned at that time. Also, outside you could stack up of these
Pawn shops take stuff they can sell quickly for top dollar. Hand tools not so much as Tool boxes of full sets. Books? Possibly college textbooks if the shop is in a college town. Collectibles would be stuff like Teddy Ruxpin, Cabbage patch kids, Transformers, Ninja Turtles.
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Removed as it didn’t really relate to the thread
I dug through the scrap pile and found parts from last year.
Probably not enough to do these panels but it might be enough to get started. I’ll have to make more.
Marked out and laid out the other shiplap parts.
And in a moment of weakness assembled the office bump out. This will also get the shiplap treatment.
Kinda looks like shiplap?
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I need one of those rulers in 22.5:1 scale. looks very handy.
I don’t remember where I bought them from but I do recall I had them specifically made. I’ve got 1 18" one with 1/29 on side and 1/1 on the other, then a 24" one with 1/29 and 1/87. The 18" one is plastic and the 24" is metal. Years ago on MLS a guy was making them.
I’ve also got a 12" 1/29 ruler from CTT Inc ( not sure if they are around either) they made pretty much all scales in rulers.
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Thank you Craig! After a couple different searches I found the ruler listed on Trainz, part # CTT 9022, 1:22.5 scale. Out of stock searched again with the correct part number and found 2 at KITLINX in Salt Lake City, UT. One is now on order coming to me!
It does appear they are not currently in production. If Kitlinx’s info online is correct, they still should have one in stock.
Craig how do you cut your thick styrene. I bought that sheet of thick stuff ( I don’t remember how thick but thick) and its a bear to cut through and doesn’t really score and snap as clean as i like. Cut offs I can manage but cut outs like windows???
I cut it a couple different ways. The stuff I’m using for the structure is 1/8" thick.
- Full sized table saw with a very vet slow feed rate. I didn’t use the saw for this stuff as my fence needs adjustment to get more square.
- Mini table saw. Again slow feed rate. It will get the plastic burrs but not as bad as the full sized saw. I use this mostly for smaller pieces.
- A dental tool. Specifically a SH6/76 scaler I got years ago from my dentist. I actually had about a half dozen but over the years I’ve snapped the tips and/grown down the tips to the point they aren’t useful anymore. This actually removes the styrene as you draw it across. I generally score and snap, but sometimes I’ll score all the way through.
Scalers/Curettes H6/H7, DE Scaler, #6 Satin Steel, SH6/76
As for the windows. I just chain drill and the sand to fit with a Dremel or needle file. I really need to buy a nibbler for this but just never have.