Anybody know how to get into the headlights on an Accu live steam locomotive to make them functional?
You could use 5mm 12v incandecent bulbs from Miniatronics, powered by a 9v rechargeable battery.
A source of headlight lenses is ottofrie.com. They have convex (and flat) quartz watch bezels in the sizes we need, in diameters in 1/10 mm increments. For running wire thru the boiler handrails, replace the solid stock with SS hypodermic tubing from smallparts.com.
Oh, The light has a lens in it … I’m just not sure how to get it open to get a light behind it.
(oh… Hi mark!)
If you figure it out please post it here. I’ve had plans to electrify my Shay headlight for a long time. I remember seeing something like a C-Ring holding in the lens, but I haven’t looked close in a while.
I guess the plan right now is, I’m gonna get it fired up and run it once this week … after that I can look into modifying things. Of course I have so many open projects right now, I may just wait till I have a few other things off the bench first, as even exactly as it is, it’s a fine looking locomotive. Guess I need to invest more time in the shop!
Matthew (OV)
The Shay headlamp assembly has a removable threaded backing. You will notice two small holes in the back- if you take a pair of needle nose, put the two ends in the holes, and gently turn. I put lights in my Shay a few years back. Wish I had taken some pictures of the process to give you a visual.
I powered both the front and the rear lights. Controlled by a DPDT switch- That way I can control front/off/rear with the switch.
I used small LED’s that are powered by a 9v battery pack. with a resistor.
Hope this helps some!
Matt
I’m looking at something along the same lines … if the lights come apart in the manner that yours did (thanks, btw) it shouldn’t be a big deal. I’m planning to add something to the RC to switch them, however, as there are slots available. Depending on feasibility, I’ll probably use mini flashlight reflectors. And then we move on to a whistle … 
Matt,
Yes the lights typically have a C ring that holds the glass in place, careful as the glass is very thin. When I do RC lighting I use a microswitch tied to the receiver along with a adjustable voltage regulator to dial in the voltage. I do carry both parts the regulator and the switch but am out of stock awaiting a stock order. You can also buy direct from dimensionengineering.com for the same price.
You can go to Maglite and order replacement refelcectors dirt cheap instead of gutting a minilight.
I have brought in some goldenwhite leds in a post mount along with micro surface mount ones for markers and other lights. I have also used the miniatronics lamps for years. the 2.4mm bulbs is what you want. I have more of those on order as you have to by packs of 10-20 when most people want one I sell individual.
Jason do you have a web site? Later RJD
I know your loco already has glass, but in case, you should ever need one, I can grind custom headlamp bezels to whatever size you need. I have a pretty wide selection of glass thicknesses on hand. I just made a set for my ALCO S-4 which i will post pics of soon. I made brass reflectors to give it that ALCO amber glow from the incandescent lamps I installed.
Mark
What size of tubing needs to be used to run the wire through? Later RJD
RJD, not sure if you did but if you click the banner on my signature its a weblink to the site.
Also you use 3mm tubing for the replacement handrails. Would be brass or stainless depending of they were painted or left steel. Its hard to get now as Small parts went to Amazon and not they carry about nothing. Or at least you can never click on the inventory to order.
These guys seem to be reliable
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/EBT12/EBT1236.jpg)
You can see the metal “C” clip just forward of the lens in this photo. I used the reflector from a Bachmann headlight for mine, since I had a small stash of extras in the parts box. The LED is actually not nearly as blue as appears in the photo. It’s powered by the receiver batteries, controlled by a Pololu control circuit in the tender. The circuit is about 3/8" square, and allows me to turn the headlight on and off via the radio control. I’ve also got the back-up light controlled the same way, connected in parallel to the J-bar control stick, so when it’s set to reverse, the light comes on.
To get the wire to the headlight, I’m using 3mm stainless tubing for the conduit. You can see it just under the handrail, tied to the handrail stanchions with wire (like the prototype was). I’ve also used thin-walled 1/16" brass tubing, which I actually prefer, but I got this stuff on a good deal (15’ for $4 or something ridiculous! Cost more to ship it.) That, and I can’t find the thin-walled 1/16" stuff in lengths longer than 12". In this case, I’m running the wire through the tubing, and using the tubing itself as the return. Yeah, I could probably use just a chassis ground, but this is direct and easy enough to do.
Later,
K
The headlight on my scratch built Forney in my avatar is a LED powered from the receiver batteries. When I switch on the receiver, the headlight comes on…makes it easy to see that I am ready to go!