Large Scale Central

Accucraft Electric Heisler Repairs

Problem Solving
#1

My Accucraft Heisler is in the same condition as others here. Its been in storage for so long I’d forgotten what was wrong with it. Was pulling stuff out of storage to dispose of when I came across it again. Not remembering, I put it on a test track and turned on the power. It made noise but never moved. Gave it a closer look and soon discovered the shafts turned intermittently and the trucks not at all.

I tore it down last night and this AM. Every u- joint was crumbling and the transmission looked like it was not long for this world either. Started scrounging the net for replacements and discovered these.

www.harfington.com

6mm to 6mm Inner Dia Rotatable Universal Joint Shaft Coupling L23 x D11 with Screws and Wrench for RC Model Pack of 5
Buy 6mm to 6mm inner dia rotatable universal joint shaft coupling l23 x d11 with screws and wrench for rc model pack of 5 at Harfington, get more in various size.

www.harfington.com

www.harfington.com

Have some ordered so will see how they do. The transmission case is the next hurdle…

Nut Titanium Household hardware Tool Steel

#2

htc
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Here’s the gem of the replacement!

#3

Got the Accucraft Heisler all reassembled and test run. Not running properly. Ran thru all kinds of issues and did a process of elimination by disconnecting the drive lines to the trucks.

Turns out the shaft from the “engine” to the front truck wobbles enough it binds.

Disassembling that "engine " reminded me of the REAL old days when I rebuilt engines as a teenager.

The front shaft is not in straight so the counter weights angle in towards each other at their widest distance. It’s off by .021.

I doubt this one ever ran right which was why I got it so cheap!

#4

after a full disassembly of the “engine”, a call to Accucraft where my suspicions were confirmed…no parts available, I tried a fix on my own. Using succesively larger gauge pins I tried to open the distance bewteen the counterweights at their farthest position from their shaft. Could not get it as far apart as they should be but got about half of it.
Reassembled the engine and disconnected the trucks. Ran the motor and the egine on its own for 8 hrs in both directions with plenty of lube. Slowly it started breaking in and progressively being able to run at lower and lower voltage. Wobble was significantly reduced and did not return.
Late last evening I reconnected the rear truck and did the same process for several hours. Then I disconnected it and connected the front truck and repeated the process.

This morning I reconnected them both and am running the process again. I am now near the same point of the entire loco being able to run at the voltage where the engine alone would just run.

Lots of progress made!

This Heisler was number “029” so one of the first. Obviously they did not have their ducks in a row at the onset of production. What was sold as a lost cause and in need of a major work over is now settling in to be a nice running loco.

I believe I might just go ahead and convert to battery and RC in the near future.

#5

Andre, thanks for posting.

If you could share some photos of what you’re encountering and how you’re intending to use those replacement parts, and where the remaining issues are, perhaps someone here could offer some ideas. It’ll also be instructive to those of us who have the Heisler, in case we face similar problems down the road.

Good luck!!

#6

here are a couple pics of the new u joints and transfer case in place

h4
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h3
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Being a VERY early Heisler I have to giggle about the info on the net about it being ready for a decoder and having its own electronics board. This is the ONLY board and electrics in the entire loco other than lights.

h5
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Makes life different when converting to battery as there are no chuff triggers, no ready made power connections or directional lighting in place.

On the otherhand if you are just into basic battery/RC its a very simple install as power wires to the motor are accessible right under the bunker. Remove track contact connections is easily done as they are screw right to the outsides of the trucks. Light connections are on the board behind the smokebox if one chooses to mess with making lighting directional.

#7

Thanks for the photos Andre, and nice conversion of the drivetrain!

It sound’s like everything is mechanically working then, right? Just electrical issues remaining?