Large Scale Central

A mad scheme is brewing for Durango & Silverton loco -->

Modeling
#1

A mad scheme is brewing for Durango & Silverton loco --> Here’s the notions rattling around the grey matter: 1. wood load from Glenbrook Valley loco 2. balloon stack from same Those are done.

Now: 3. instead of painting gloss black boiler jacket metallic black as dreamed up so far, use metallic grey like on PRR loco (dome bases will remain black) 4. shorten smokebox like did on V&T loco 5. paint smokebox PollyScale Steam Power Black like PRR loco 6. add rivet details to stack with http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html 7. chip off white tires like I did on PRR loco 8. ? maybe, shorten firebox about 1/2 to 3/4 inch ? 9. rearrange boiler jacket bands in front of cab and add one at end of jacketing at backhead. Strips of .015 styrene for that. Cut width to match model’s molded on ones, however wide they are - I didn’t measure, just held plastic sheet against existing and nicked end to match 10. molded on sand pipes have to go. will be replaced by wire Then won’t the rivet counters just love that baby.

#2

Whoa, those decal rivet thingies are great, if they work as advertised. Anyone have any direct experience with them?

#3

Not yet.
Learned about them in an HO tank car kitbash article in July Railroad Model Craftsman (RMC) magazine
http://www.rrmodelcraftsman.com/

#4

I’m interested in hearing how they hold up, too. My biggest concern would be how they’d stand being handled. Flat decals beneath a layer of protective sealer are one thing, but I’d be concerned that the rivets–being 3D–would provide just enough grip for your fingers that they’d break loose from handling. I’d sooner use embossed .005" styrene, but that’s not ideal for all circumstances where these might work out better. On the boiler jacket, try Testor’s (Model Masters) “Buffable Metalizer” paints. I use the gunmetal for my jackets. Once you buff it, it looks dead on for a plannished iron boiler jacket.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/EBT1/EBT125.jpg)

(Okay, not quite as dead-on as blackened brass sheet, very close. Helpful when you don’t feel like cutting the brass sheet to match the conical boiler courses or molded-on dome bases.) Later, K

#5

Shortening the firebox is a worthwhile pursuit. This is my version some years ago when I attempted to make the Annie look more like a D&RGW T12.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/aaTm.JPG)