Large Scale Central

9 volt converter from any track power

Electronics
#1

Here is a handy little device to rid the lighted coaches, and some of the different sound systems of those 9 volt batteries.
I suspect it wouldn’t take very long for one of these to pay for itself both in the price of batteries and the pain of having to change them. It might add new life to those Bachman 4-6-0 locomotive sound systems that everyone seems to have on of, and at 13 bucks, is worth a try.
It will be a while before I have one installed and able to provide performance data.

I don’t know about current draw, Tony or one of the other electronics guru’s would be the expert on that one.
By the way Tony, thanks for all your help and advice/knowledge sharing via email.

Ram Track Rail Powered 9V Power Source

Item Number: RAM-59
Designed to power RAM 9 volt lighting and sound systems, this device will work with AC or DC powered trains up to 28 volts. With an output of 1 amp, it is both overload and short circuit protected. It must be connected to a power pick up truck for input from the rails. The size is 1" x 1 3/4" x 1 1/8" and a screw terminal strip is provided for simple installation.

At the risk of sounding like an advertisement, here is a link:

http://www.internettrains.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=RAM-59&Category_Code=ELMELCCIRRAMPWR

#2

Ram make useful and reliable gadgets for our pleasure.

#3

Not a very difficult circuit to build yourself if you have the desire and soldering skills. The RAM adapter looks like a good solution to those who don’t. 1 Amp capacity should handle coach lights easily.

#4

Jon,
Care to provide a list of materials and a basic diagram for those who can solder? I am sure at radio shack the parts would be just a couple of bucks.

#5

I don’t have a schematic, or a completed design in my head, but a bridge rectifier and a voltage regulator would be about all you need. The regulator may need a resistor to set the output voltage.

#6

Sounds like it would work great for DCC with enough amps output.

The question is, from what minimum DC voltage? Some engines run at a pretty good clip at 10 Vdc.

Off-brand alkaline AA batteries can be had for as little as 15 cents each if you watch for sales.

3 or 4 of them powering warm white LEDs (each with a proper resistor in series) will cost you pennies per hour per car to run.

Compare that to the start-up cost of the regulator and pickups, plus the bigger power pack you will have to buy because of the added physical “drag” on the wheels from the pickups,

plus the electrical load from the regulators and incandescent lamps on the power pack…

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

#7

Still turns into dollars. the bracket to hold the batteries, access modifications, and time are all factors.

The site explained it ‘will work AC or DC up to 28 volts with an output of 1 AMP’. I don’t know it the current draw changes with the load or is constant. That works on FM as far as I know (translates to -------- Magic).
As I said in an earlier post I am not the electronics guru, but a single pickup axle wired for 2 passenger cars lighting as an example, should be in the .10 amp or below range. Because passenger consists are usually very short in comparison to freight, it would seem that the power taken from the track would have a minimal effect on the locomotive as far as drag, unless its a marginal power source already. I am definitely interested in the data on such an application. With warm white LED’s (thanks for that tip Joe) and a decent power supply in use this would remove having to deal with batteries completely. with a potentiometer installed in the lighting circuit, the light’s intensity could be managed down to a very realistic appearance.
The sound side is the most intriguing to me. My ears are not good enough to tell a 40 dollar sound system from a 150 dollar one. The older sound systems in the 4-6-0 bachmanns with some minor mods mentioned in another post might just be worth pulling out of the parts boxes for an experiment. Perhaps soething as simple as a better speaker? To that extent my mind and wallet agree.

I think it would be interesting to see one home built for cost and current draw data as well. With a proper design (out of my league by the way) and mounting, those that like to run in the evenings and at night may be able to avoid some of what would seem to be normal practice as it is now…

All points very well taken Joe. I’ll have to stick my nose in some books over this one.

#8

Not magic at all, front end with a full wave bridge and use a small low drop switching adjustable output regulator to get the desired output. We actually use a circuit just like this (but with 5VDC out) in our on board video product. A low drop switching regulator is pricey (about $15) but makes up for it in efficiency. The ones we use are about 90% efficient and thus run w/o heatsink while delivering an amp out. Add in a battery and a second regulator and you’ve got UPS backed lighting. Our ckt uses 6 AA rechargeable NiMH and a diode switch, first regulator charges batteries at about 8VDC and second delivers a regulated 5VDC out. Don, get with me, I live just down the road, I can sketch this out for you if you want to bash something like this up. The only restriction is that the input voltage to the regulators needs to be about 1 volt more than the output.

JT

Don Pearson said:
Still turns into dollars. the bracket to hold the batteries, access modifications, and time are all factors.

The site explained it ‘will work AC or DC up to 28 volts with an output of 1 AMP’. I don’t know it the current draw changes with the load or is constant. That works on FM as far as I know (translates to -------- Magic).
As I said in an earlier post I am not the electronics guru, but a single pickup axle wired for 2 passenger cars lighting as an example, should be in the .10 amp or below range. Because passenger consists are usually very short in comparison to freight, it would seem that the power taken from the track would have a minimal effect on the locomotive as far as drag, unless its a marginal power source already. I am definitely interested in the data on such an application. With warm white LED’s (thanks for that tip Joe) and a decent power supply in use this would remove having to deal with batteries completely. with a potentiometer installed in the lighting circuit, the light’s intensity could be managed down to a very realistic appearance.
The sound side is the most intriguing to me. My ears are not good enough to tell a 40 dollar sound system from a 150 dollar one. The older sound systems in the 4-6-0 bachmanns with some minor mods mentioned in another post might just be worth pulling out of the parts boxes for an experiment. Perhaps soething as simple as a better speaker? To that extent my mind and wallet agree.

I think it would be interesting to see one home built for cost and current draw data as well. With a proper design (out of my league by the way) and mounting, those that like to run in the evenings and at night may be able to avoid some of what would seem to be normal practice as it is now…

All points very well taken Joe. I’ll have to stick my nose in some books over this one.

#9

Jeff,
Although my address is close, currently I am a good distance. I will definitly communicate when I am home. I looked at your page and it is really impressive, with the block lighting and all. The ‘Engineer View’ is spectacular, especially the clarity that is maintained. Email sent.

#10

The Train -Li pro light works on 8 to 24 volts AC or DC, and even DCC. Input goes to a bridge rectifier and then the circuit drives 6 led lights. Holes for mounting match the LGB car interior lights.

#11

I’ve built a similar circuit several times to power LED lighting in passenger cars. The bridge rectifier makes the current go in the same direction regardless of the track voltage (hence, the direction of travel). A capacitor will help keep the lights on over dirty track, and an LED driver allows almost any number of LED’s for the cars. After wiring a couple of them, I’ve had printed circuit boards made of the circuit. I’ve still got a few of the boards in my cabinet. Contact me off list if you’d like one. They cost me a little over $9 each. The other components are just a few dollars, available from Radio Shack, except the LED drivers. Only place I’ve found them is Mouser. There are pictures of the circuit and the boards in the photo file.

#12

Since internet trains is selling it for $12, doubtful it is the more expensive low dropout regulator… FW bridge, 3 terminal 9v regulator, needs 12 volts input, and a cap on board to buffer the input for the short term interruptions.

Greg

#13

I have built a couple of circuits like that to power the Modeltonics Sound systems in my Bachmann Spectrum Engines. I am using the Aristo TE control that is powered form a 21V Battery, but the sound system uses two 9V batteries. Simple enough was the circuit to make on a pref board. One 4 pin input connector to get power from the Battery, plus connector to send power to the TE receiver. Then power goes through a Bridge recetifier and the to a 9V regulator with filter Caps on the input and output sides of the Voltage regulator, then this is wired to a connector to hook the sound systems to. All told, I think the cost of the parts was like $6.00. I also wired in a toggle switch that I hid inside one of the tool boxes on the tender to turn the sound system on and off.

I am also using this to power the headlight and the firebox lights.

Dan S.

#14

Train-Li now has a newer 6 led strip that lights up at 6 volts and has constant light to 24 volts.

#15

I wish ram would make a proper Gyralite circuit for the upper headlight on F units or other engines like SP engines with the light package. I have tried one circuit, poor effect for that use, and looked at youtube videos of other beacon circuits they have to no avail. Only good Mars/Gyralite circuit I can find outside of DCC is from Richmond Controls with an unknown waiting list to get one produced.

#16

Simulator using 3 LEDs

http://ngineering.com/connect_n8031b.htm

Greg