Any idea what I can use, how to make the part circled in green? I’m stumped. It’s about 3" wide at the top…
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/422141_10150662799786912_838651911_9457825_1654713705_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/422141_10150662799791912_838651911_9457826_2101118709_n.jpg)
Craig;
I’ll post my suggestion on both sites.
Could you adapt a plastic coffee stir tube to the required shape and cement it to a styrene plate, then use the assembly as a master for casting?
Perhaps not the best starting point, but that was the first thing that came to my mind.
Best,
David Meashey
Or if you are going to make a casting, you might be able to carve the tubular shape. Balsa wood or PVC foam board come to mind.
I give you a lot of credit in going to this level of detail in your turnout. This would be perfect for a small shelf railroad. If you are planning an outdoor railroad I think you will soon find that building to this level will take way too much time. On the other hand, if this build is a master from which to make molds then you are going to have a fine looking railroad 
I’m in grad school right now, so I don’t have much time or room to work on my big projects so I’ve narrowed my focus a little. (One of these days I’ll post about my grand scheme I hope to model some day, right now one town area is going to require an area 35’ x 8’. If I only can build this one town I’ll be happy…) When I get done next year (and hopefully find a job) I’ll get back the rest of my modeling supplies including the casting equipment. But for now it’s all build it myself… So yes at some point in time I’m planning on casting these parts and copying them. I’ve never been satisfied with manufactured track, or handlayed track that lacks a bunch of details, so I’m trying a new idea. It would be crazy to try and build all of this by hand and not cast any of it. That said this being my first turnout project I may end up reworking some of the masters when I get the rest of my tools back. For instance instead of cutting and filing all the tie plates, I can machine them out of plastic with my drill press (keeping everything nice and square).
Back to the problem at hand… I’m trying to carve it out of sculpey clay for the first attempt. Last night I was able to fire a little bit, the most critical part (the part that locks on to the underside of the rail head). Now I think I can slowly carve/add pieces to make the shape. Coffee sticks sound like an interesting approach too… I tried heating up some small styrene rod and then bending it, but that didn’t work out too well.
I finally got the frog end of the turnout finished. The only thing left on this area is a couple of bolts and washers that go through the stock rail and the wing rail and hold it all together. I don’t think I’ll be modeling those as the wheel flange would get in the way.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/532519_10150682012481912_838651911_9518547_1023960416_n.jpg)
Six ties left after the frog that need rail, but I’m going to hold off until the turnout gets installed so I don’t have to have more joints then needed. One more point left to file, and then those rail clips to figure out. After that I think it might be close to done. Still needs some fake rail joiners too, but I haven’t figure those out either. One step at a time. Craig
I need some opinions here, as I’m still undecided on what represents the prototype photo the best. Here’s the prototype.
Option 1. 3/8 spike head as the single spike.
Option 2. Atlas track nail
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/528518_10150724273726912_838651911_9673415_175078781_n.jpg)
Option 3. Random brass pin I have laying around.
I haven’t figured out a good way to model the angle bracket, so I figured I might as well start with something and work from there. Technically I don’t think the spikes should hold the rail down, but I have a feeling that that small angle bracket would not be strong enough to keep everything in gauge over time. Next up making tie bars. I think brass strips are going to be my best option. Craig
IMO the Atlas track nail.
Since you are using aluminum rails, I would recommend aluminum for the tie bar to reduce electrolysis.
This comes closer to resembling this:
Then the other 2 options.
Steve Featherkile said:Would it matter that I'm using battery power? Or is it simply the two materials mixing? I'll admit I'm not to smart in the chemistry department.
Since you are using aluminum rails, I would recommend aluminum for the tie bar to reduce electrolysis.
Different materials, plus rain equals electrolysis. Add some salts from the soil and you have faster electrolysis.
Battery power is better, but it won’t save you.
Of course, if you use brass screws in the tie bar, you loose anything gained from using the aluminum tie bar. I’d recommend using stainless steel screws.
It will take a few years before you notice any damage, if you decide to go with the brass, so the decision is yours.
Ken,
That’s what I thought at first too, but I’m trying to figure out a way to make that rounded bracket part. If so then one of the two other options might work better… To many choices!
Steve Featherkile said:
Different materials, plus rain equals electrolysis. Add some salts from the soil and you have faster electrolysis.Battery power is better, but it won’t save you.
Of course, if you use brass screws in the tie bar, you loose anything gained from using the aluminum tie bar. I’d recommend using stainless steel screws.
It will take a few years before you notice any damage, if you decide to go with the brass, so the decision is yours.
I finally made some more progress with the turnout.
(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/550086_10150794731311912_838651911_9843895_400967340_n.jpg)
The tie plates on the bottom still need to be trimmed up, but it looks like everything is holding together in gauge. After adding the .010" slider pieces (small 3"x8" pieces on top) I discovered that I needed to make a vertical bend in the point rails. Guess what? It’s in the exact same place as the drawing shows… Craig
Having gotten the points sliding right last night and trimmed up to their final lengths, I quickly came to the conclusion that before I can determine how much spread (and therefore build the tie bars that hold the points together) is between the points, I’m going to have to figure out the throw of the switch stand.
Having yet to find anything that will work for me, I’ve relegated myself to building my own so I can control the height, width, and throw of the stand. I’m thinking something like this, as it might be easier. That said it would be easier to use a commercial product instead, but who said I was going the easy route?
I’m trying to figure out if I should attempt to mill this stand out of solid stock, or try and build up individual pieces? I’m just trying to make a master here, not expecting it to be useful or strong. I would like to cast the stands in a low temp metal or something stronger so they would be functional. Any thoughts, ideas? Craig
Take a look at these two sites for Bruce’s how to on switch stands. He says that he now uses heavies stock than what is published, so you might want to contact him. Note the spring in the “push rod.” That obviates the need to be spot on in dimensions.
http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=12687
Steve,
I have looked at Bruce’s stands before and thought about building them, but they just don’t look right to me. I feel like I’m starting to get anal about this project now… Okay I have been from the beginning!
Craig: On those tie plates, I might try hand-milling (filing) them out of some smaller stock rail. Come to think of it I have some plastic track - NewBrite or something like that - around here somewhere, and that might be easier to file to shape.
I don’t think you told us what you are studying. If it were only jewellery-making you’d have a lot of your parts made in the shade.
You might go to a local jeweller anyway and have some of these parts cast in brass or bronze. Come to think of it, he might be able to offer you good advice on a lot of the challenging parts you’ve been talking about here.
Might be worthwhile for you to take a job with a jeweller, pick up all kinds of tips, learn about tools and suppliers, etc.
You can also take extension courses in jewellery making, but you’d have to make sure in advance that it covered the topics that would profit a model builder.
The reason I mention all this is because I once knew a guy who was a jeweller hobbyist. Among his posessions was one he particularly prided himself on - a miniature forge.
Unfortunately, I moved away before I had a chance to cultivate his friendship or learn much more, but the memory has stayed with me over 20 years later. I’ve always been curious where those skills might have led, modelling-wise.
I suspect that some of the old producers of brass detail parts used jeweller’s skills, techniques, tools and materials.
Just some food for thought.
Craig, are you building a scale model of a turnout, or something that will be useful on a garden railroad? Or have you asked yourself that question, yet?
I admire your work, but wonder how long it will hold up outside.
John,
I’m working on my MA in History.
I would love to learn the lost wax casting process! This would be a great starting project I would think.
Steve,
Attempting to do both. How well it will work outside in the garden? Time will tell. I know for certain that my next layout will not be on the ground, but be elevated. If I put the turnout outside right now I don’t think it would last more then a month or two without UV protection. What I would ultimately like to do is take these different pieces and cast them up just like a commercial trackage would be. Some parts like the ties could be resin, while other parts like the points, stands would have to be something stronger, like John suggested out of brass or bronze?
If these ends up not working out when I get done with school and can rebuild my layout (I tore my old layout out when we rented our house out) than I either decide at that point to say inside, or to change my modeling techniques. Either way it keeps me from being an armchair modeler for 2-3 years!
Craig
