Finally got her finished.
That’s beautiful John, but for a Dolbeer it sure makes that track work look small 
Rick, It’s just a little Dolbeer. 
I’m starting a Willamette . The skid is almost 30" long!
That looks great, John. Love all the little details.
John,
Is he kicking those out in 1:20 kits yet??? If so will have to have one or two
Beautiful! Great coloring on the wood. I’m not a logging RR, but I have several Shays and one of these in Fn3 would be an awesome flat car load for them.
That’s an excellent price.
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Ordered 1 of each to satisfy my curiosity. Was surprised to not find a set of skid jewelry available for the Willamette, just a tank and pump.
Rick,
Devon has been real busy with his job because of a huge road construction project he is involved in.
When he has more free time, he said he will get back on the add-ons. I’m looking forward to them as well.
Please remember this is a “representative” of a donkey. There are lots of customizing you can do.
There is a generic fairlead and all kinds of sled hardware also available as well.
The 2 kits arrived today, fast Service!!
First impression, very nice!! Little cleanup needed.
Was a bit surprised that not a word of assembly instruction or picture was included, nor any information as to which adhesives work or don’t work on this material.
This could be a real problem for the novice modeler.
All in all I am satisfied and will probably order a few more in the future. A couple of nit picky things but as John said above these represent a generic machine.
Rick, I can send you a couple close up pics of sub assemblies, or post them here, if that helps.
I use ordinary medium to thick super glue and various bits of brass for bracing, etc. Also brass tubing for the drive shafts on the doubler cylinder.
I wanted to add that the NBW’s that he prints are fantastic. much cleaner than soft metal castings.
Thanks for the offer John, but I pretty well have it covered.
Was wondering will MEK solvents work on this material as it does on Styrene etc.?
Since its a resin, and not a styrene / pvc / abs material, I don’t think so…
A few minutes later… OK, I tried with Plastruct cement (solvent based on MEK) and it didn’t want to dissolve the material (hence the term solvent); parts didn’t want to stick together very much.
I’ve been using JB Weld for plastics, but I’ll guess that many 2-part epoxies will work.
CA also seems to work quite well, just confirmed. And because of the sloppy test I just did, I won’t be able to wake my phone up with a finger swipe for the next 3 days…
If CA and 2 part epoxy will work, you might like Loctite HY-4070. It comes in a syringe applicator with a small diameter mixing tip (3 per package and available in 5 packs). It is a structural adhesive hybrid of CA and Epoxy that use it for all kinds of stuff. Works great metal to metal and on plastics (pvc, styrene etc.) A little pricey at about $18 for a small tube, but a little goes a long way.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_hy_4070.html
I’ve used both thick CA and 5 minute epoxy on my printed resin parts and they both worked very well.
I’ve been using CA on Mike’s kits for a couple years now, and it is ideal for me. You will easily break the resin parts if you make a mistake and try to pull it apart.
Walthers Goop contact cement also works for larger pieces, but takes longer to set.
As far as two part epoxies and such, I don’t have the patience to mix. I just want to grab and glue, with the same results.
What is the prediction for how well this will hold up outside? Is this a “bring it out for visitors” kind of model? Will it be able to withstand rain and (shudder) snow? CA won’t, right? But goop will?
Mike has left some of his kits outside for the whole running season and told me nothing brittled up or fell apart. But it is painted very well. As to my kits, I think they will be just shelf queens or show and tell.
As John has said I have been real busy at work. Add ons will be available once I have some time to settle down and get back to design work.
To address a few of the things mentioned. CA is what I use and it works great. MEK does nothing.
the resin for 3D printed parts is brittle. Mike uses about as tough and flexible material that is around that I have seen but small parts are still fragile. I would not use these as take and show pieces unless you are careful with them. And since the resin is a UV cure resin any unpainted parts will only further cure and become more brittle. These kits have some pretty delicate details. The larger thicker pieces would hold up fine but I worry that a lot of handling will cause little details to get broken.
So with that haul them around at your own discretion.