Large Scale Central

60 degree (or more) crossing track?

Track and Trestles
#21

Craig,

The concept of the patio block was to provide the support necessary to be able to take someone stepping on the crossing without the crossing suffering damage. Your concept to later pick the track up and install ties is not all that bad, provided you make certain to solder strapping across the gauge on all four sections to keep gauge while you spike the rail to the ties. I would also recommend using some construction adhesive on the tie to patio block connections to add additional stabilization.

Great minds will always overcome the obstacles. :slight_smile:

Bob C.

#22

Interesting idea, but wouldn’t that patio block act as a heat sink making it difficult to solder ?

#23

Jon,

Yes, I had considered the additional heat sink ability of the patio block. My intent was not considering fabrication as much as the overall durability of the final product. I would think a large iron or small torch would overcome the heat sink ability of the patio block. It takes a good amount of heat to solder 332 rail anyway.

Bob C.

#24

If using a concrete patio block, you would have to be very careful when soldering as the heat from the torch can cause air bubbles inside the concrete to expand, fling sharp chips upwards- trust me, it has happened to me!

Alec.

#25

To overcome the lack of ties, why not a very thin layer of ballast? Depending on the railway deferred maintenance program, that could help hide the fact that there are no ties.

#26

Alec,

I am not speaking of a rosebud tip here. I am referring to something much smaller and more controllable. I have a standard oxy/acetylene rig and use a 000 tip for the small stuff. I can weld 20 ga steel with this small a tip. The trick is to keep the heat on the rail, not the patio block. Heating the rail and letting the heat ‘travel’ to the underlying plate will reduce the risk of what you are mentioning. There are also very small torches referred to as ‘jewelers torches’ with even smaller tips, although if the tip is too small it will take too long to heat the rail and you will end up with the same issue. Best solution is a large, old timey, soldering iron - the big old honker that you don’t want to hold up too long. The take a while to heat up, but are great for the heavier soldering applications.

Bob C.

#27

Ray
I would like very much to build you a crossing but it would be about two months before I could get you one built.
If you want to try it yourself, I will help you as much as I can.

E-mail me your address and I will send you a foot of plastic rail. This will make it a lot easier to build the guard rails
on the crossing.
You will also need some J B WELD to use where the rails come together to keep the rails isolated. To make things a
lot easier, you’ll need a few track gauges.

Latter this week I will try to mock a crossing up and take photos on how I do a track powered crossings.
Rodney