Large Scale Central

4-6-0 to 4-4-0 bash

Modeling
#1

So I got bored, realized I had two 4-6-0s sitting around with dead drivetrains…and this resulted

It has a Connie gearbox in it, attached to a stainless steel rear axle with nylon insulators in the wheel hubs. I cut down the smokebox to the first set of rivets, and then had to trim down the smokebox front (the smokebox plastic gets thicker near the back, so the smokebox front wouldn’t go in). Trimmed the stock connecting rods down and made something that sort of works (I have a bit of binding, but I’m working on that). I still have to trim the piston rods down. The front axle is a stock Bachmann axle, but when I tried to trim the frame to mount the bushings, it snapped off…so I CA’d in some sheetmetal that so far is working very well. Still to do: Trim pilot shorter, new aluminum front truck(shorter wheelbase), different headlight (probably), new stack (coal burner), trim the cab interior out, and finish a tender for it (it no longer has power pickups, so I need a battery/RC tender). What think? Any suggestions?

#2

Dang, what would happen if you got bored with a Big Boy sitting around?
(could be morphed into an awesome Garratt)

#3

That came out great. I did one a couple years ago. They make fine Americans. Mine involved moving the front axle back but it wasn’t that difficult a job.

#4

Vic, I did move the front axle a bit back. Only issue at the moment is the even more increased swing of the pilot. Looks pretty bad even on LGB R3 curves.

#5

Oh you bet. I know about the pilot swing issue too. Nothing you can do about it. It really needs very wide curves.

#6

Yeah, I’m wondering about springing the front truck to drag the front end of the loco into curves. We’ll see if I ever get around to that.

How’d you do side rods? I’m having some slight binding on mine due to (probably) incorrect length and (potentially) flexing rods–I took the stock rods, trimmed the center axle post out, shortened them to where it looks “right”, and glued sheet styrene over the outside. It’s kindof flexy in the middle though.

And sorry Forrest, completely forgot your message.

I -have- a Big Boy sitting around. I just don’t do standard gauge :smiley:

#7

Looks nice! I wouldn’t use styrene on the side rods. Take a look at my Mikado thread. I used K&S brass tube…it was rectangular in shape and I was able to cut the old side rods apart and pin them in there. Very strong and I was able to get just the right length.

#8

Robbie… I DO SG and would gladly take that miserable space-wasting, busted old boiler’ed big boy out of your way… just to help a fellow modeler

#9

I’ll see about that, Bruce. This isn’t an Annie, so it’s plastic side rods instead of metal. And since I ended up using glued-in plates to locate the front axle, I’m not entirely sure just how long they need to be–I’ve been trial-and-erroring it.

Jason: It’s my brother’s…sorry :stuck_out_tongue: He’s into big stuff. It’s nice, definitely keeping it, just not my thing. I’ll take my K-27 any day!

#10

Robbie Hanson said:
I -have- a Big Boy sitting around. I just don’t do standard gauge :smiley:

If 1/24 scale is used with 45mm gauge 1 track comes out to 42 inch, 1066mm, gauge. Gotta be plenty of Aussie, South African, Zimbabwe, Garratts to model :slight_smile: May even be something from Morocco in French Colonial days. How about this Aussie beastie

(www.asterhobbyusa.com/images/AD60Garratt1.jpg)

Fot those unfamiliar with Garratts, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garratt

#11

Robbie I originally used custom cut styrene siderods but Barry Olsen of Barry’s Big Trains (BBT ) offered to fabricate metal ones for me. I sent him measurements and the rods fit perfect. As for the driverods I kept the originals and shortened them to size. The make very attractive 8-wheelers I am surprised Bmann never offered one or anyone offered a conversion kit. Barry could build a custom BBT drive but he’s the only conversion I know of.

#12
Robbie Hanson said:
I'll see about that, Bruce. This isn't an Annie, so it's plastic side rods instead of metal. And since I ended up using glued-in plates to locate the front axle, I'm not entirely sure just how long they need to be--I've been trial-and-erroring it.

Jason: It’s my brother’s…sorry :stuck_out_tongue: He’s into big stuff. It’s nice, definitely keeping it, just not my thing. I’ll take my K-27 any day!


Contact Barry. He has a stash. He cast some for me - not real cheap, but they were made from metal I could solder to - well worth it.

#13

Vic, how’d you shorten the drive rods? Where? (assuming you have any pictures, those would be REALLY helpful right now).

Bruce, anything more than $5 is likely out of my price range at the moment. I’m having enough trouble getting cash together for my fall semester in school. I’ll keep it in mind, though.

I should also mention that I’m now dealing with bigger binding issues–the wheels don’t appear to be staying square to the back axle, which is an issue. Might have to tear the new drive unit back apart and see if I can square it up. On the other hand, while the side rods lasted, I pulled eight AMS freight cars–the rods then snapped at my styrene joint(between the Bachmann rod halves). Oh well…at least it’s got some power to spare.

#14

Robbie,
I have made numerous extended rods using ‘U’ section brass channel from K&S. I do use Anniversary metal rods, however, the same method could be used with the stock plastic rods. Basically, I cut the rod midpoint between the rod journals and locate brass channel that is a neat fit over the length of the rod. I originally bonded with 2-part epoxy for strength, but now simply superglue the channel to the rod. Have not had a problem since with breakage.

For your binding issues then on the Anniversary models (the Big Hauler may be similar), the wheel is loosely mounted to the axle allowing a degree of rotational movement on the axle. This is to allow any discrepancies with rod lengths and minimise binding issues. I feel that your problem may be that the forward axle is not aligned with the rear axle. To check for alignment then the rod from one side should fit the other side with no binding. If binding then axles are not aligned or rod journal centres not accurate.

#15

Tim,
My stock gearbox shredded, so I have a Bachmann Connie gearbox mounted in it. I took a 1/4" diameter stainless rod, press fit a nylon rod over the ends, and drilled the wheels so as to press fit them onto the nylon. I wasn’t able to figure out a simple method of locking them, so I ended up with superglue/CA.

I’ll try regluing one of the rods I made to test the front axle’s straightness. It rolls fine, so I don’t foresee any issues, but I’ll try anyway.

Gonna be a day or so–got a calc exam in 10 hours and this is the last you’re gonna see of me til after that!

#16

(http://gold.mylargescale.com/vsmith/Bug%20Mauler%20440%20BBT%202.JPG)

(http://gold.mylargescale.com/vsmith/Bug%20Mauler%20440%20BBT%2011.JPG)

The driver rod was just carefull measured compared to the travel on the piston rods then I used micro-bolt, micro-washers and a micro-nut to fasten the drive rod to the piston rod, usingjust enough tightning on the nut so it didnt bind then locked the nut with a tiny amount of Zap-Gap. Hope this helps