Large Scale Central

3 way stub stwitch

Track and Trestles
#1

For the last way evenings I have been working on a 3 way stub turnout- Inspired by the fantastic one Rodney did for Bob. The rail is all SVRR code 250 aluminum. The ties are hardwood and the batons are oak. The throwbar is 1/4 by 1/16 brass.

And underneath…

And roughly in place…

Next I will stain the ties and build a switch-stand. Alec

#2

REAL REAL nice.

#3

I agree. Very nice. I really like stub switches. They are simpler to build and can’t be picked when running facing point. They do make for a rude awakening if set wrong run through trailing point :slight_smile:

#4

Alec, Way Cool, and great work… How much separation between the stubs, and or how much deflection on the rail, and how far back on the main is the Pivot / Bend point? This is something that I have wanted to build for some time, but using 332 stainless, it seams really stiff to bend.

#5

Beautiful looking switch… wonderful job… :slight_smile:

#6

They’re a lot easier to build too. I’ve got one 3-way and two 2-way stub switches on my layout. Make sure you leave a good gap between the stock rail and the moving rail, when the rail expands it closes the gap and the switch won’t throw. I leave a gap there and where it connects to the main line.

Nice job on the switch!

#7

Thanks guys!

Dave, I separate the rails so that they are big enough to accommodate the foot of the rail and a spike. Because this it is a #5, there is a slight kink, next time I would do it as a #6. I think that stainless might be not springy enough.

Alec

#8

Alec - How far back are you letting the rail bend? It looks lie you have spikes in the third tie back from the end of the moving rail.

With Stainless, if you allow more rail to bend by using gauge bars you could probably do it. I’ll try someday as most of my railroad is 332 stainless.

#9

Jon, the rail can bend after the 3rd tie from the left. The spikes you see further along are to guide the rail to bend around (they don’t actually grip the rail) , this helps reduce the kinks.

Alec

#10

That sure is one nice looking switch :slight_smile:
Ralph

#11

Thanks Alec, I get it now :slight_smile:

#12
Ken Brunt said:
They're a lot easier to build too. I've got one 3-way and two 2-way stub switches on my layout. Make sure you leave a good gap between the stock rail and the moving rail, when the rail expands it closes the gap and the switch won't throw. I leave a gap there and where it connects to the main line.

Nice job on the switch!


I think I blew the rail on each of the 3. I’ll blame it on lack of food, but I had a tough time with them at Ken’s, but loved the way they worked and looked. Once again, had to be retrained.

#13
Ric Golding said:
Ken Brunt said:
They're a lot easier to build too. I've got one 3-way and two 2-way stub switches on my layout. Make sure you leave a good gap between the stock rail and the moving rail, when the rail expands it closes the gap and the switch won't throw. I leave a gap there and where it connects to the main line.

Nice job on the switch!


I think I blew the rail on each of the 3. I’ll blame it on lack of food, but I had a tough time with them at Ken’s, but loved the way they worked and looked. Once again, had to be retrained.

Andy said the same thing, but they’re all working just fine. Like I said, the gap closes and they get hard to throw. Just gotta keep an eye on them when your running.

#14

Ken, I have no real excuse, I kept looking at them wrong. One time I think I bent the rail thinking I aligned it and then derailed the engine. Like I said, maybe low blood sugar. Andy uses that excuse all the time. :wink:

#15

Looks very nice! I need to build a couple for upcoming expansion, not really as complicated as they look are they? and a Three way is really a great way to save some space on a yard throat!