Large Scale Central

250 track switch information need

I made a Trolley line using Brass 250 Gage tracks. Now…I’m having problems locating anyone that makes a short left hand turnout like LGB 332 …making something that i can use with a LGB manual lever.
I been trying all kind of way to use a LGB 332 Switch, but having a hard time keeping it soldered or making a make shift rail clamps to match up or work right.
Dose any one know of or where to find, two 250 Gage track switches in Brass?
" Sorry Bruce C. on not completing type of metal and use. lol "

Noel,
Llagas Creek sells code 250 brass turnouts/switches. They will custom build any radius switch for you. Mike Gates, their turnout builder, is a regular on Mylargescale.com (MGates).
https://www.mylargescale.com/threads/custom-1-20-3-scale-serpentine-ladder-turnout-for-a-switching-layout.92308/#post-1172600

What I used to do when connecting different size rails was to slice/saw about 1/2" into the web of the taller rail section. I then squeezed the rail end together so the bottom of the web met the top part - trying not to let the top of the rail kink downwards. Then, with some judicious filing of the width of the web, a code 250 joiner would hold them together.

Noel,
Split Jaw makes adapter clamps but they are pricy. Rail Clamps & Track Accessories | www.RAILCLAMP.com

SVRR has all sorts of them, you can find them online. Pete is good to deal with.

Thanks guys for the information. I sent an e-mail to Llagas Creek & Sunset vallery sells code 250 brass turnouts/switches and see what they have. I’m using the two 332 LGB now, but like like crap. and hard to keep together with my make shift connections/clamps. Again, Thanks Guys. Noel in Ca.

Thanks guy. I did like you suggested last year using a LGB small raidous 332 SW. to my 250 tracks and it worked great. I had to put a over the rails a 332 jointer to keep it from moving thro. Other tha that, great cheap idea. Sorry I took so long to replay. Noel

1 Like

I would first like to ask why did you want to use 250 rail over the 332 rail, was it because you wanted the more scale look, this is the only reason why I would do this. If I didn’t plan to use 250 switches and use an LGB 332 switch where is the thought here, I don’t understand. I will say here, I model in LGB scale 1:22.5 and I model to where it looks good and not always to scale, I call it a “STANDOFF SCALE” like the model airplane RC class has, I won’t go into that here. It seems like you had the LGB switches and wanted to use them, I would have probably done the same. Now let me say here, I used all LGB track and switches on my large switching layout, I painted the rail and heavy ballasted my track which will disguise the size of the rail, just a modeling technique used by many modelers. I changed all my 16 LGB switches on the layout to Bachmann #94648 switch machine which I thought were more protype looking then the LGB ones and some I added the switch lanterns to with LED lighting. Soldering is somewhat of a ART and it comes from experience, you just don’t put two pieces together with solder and an iron, there is much more to it, watch YouTube video’s on this and practice, large items like rail will take more knowledge of doing it, then say two wires.

I think because Pap is about 90yrs young these days and from my understanding tore up his Bevis and Butthead Cove RR when he moved somewhere smaller. In turn he is using what he had setting up a smaller trolley line (OUTDOORS) at his new digs.

Does that make sense?

He’s still playing with trains to the best of my knowledge.

I find myself in somewhat the same situation, at 79 I wonder just how much longer I will be playing with toy trains. I’m working on a 3X22 foot shelf layout inside my shop and my outside activities I enjoy at our club layouts at members’ homes.