For the most part my 1st generation Pacific has been running very well. On my indoor layout it has no problem with the 10’ diameter curves but on the 8’ diameter the rear wheels of the pilot trucks keep coming off the track. Has anyone else had this problem and been able to find a solution?
Yes, but I also have the problem with the wide radius (10 diameter) switches.
I did not have this problem with a truck mounted coupler.
Unfortunately I cut the coupler tang off the truck to install the Kadee coupler.
I have noticed the paint on the inside of the piston rod covers on the back of the steam chest is scraped.
I am wondering if the wheels are hitting them in tight turns.
But it could just from all the derailments.
If you still have the black box for the Pacific, look at the picture on the side of the box.
The wheels of the pilot truck are outside the steam chest.
The rear wheels are very close to the first set of drivers.
But on the model both sets of wheels are about 1/4 inch forward.
Perhaps that is why the wheels hit the coupler and the steam chest.
I am going to see if Gilbert of GLX Scale Models can 3D print a shorter pivot arm for the pilot truck.
This would place the wheels like the picture shows and MAY solve the problem.
I also want to have him make some tender steps as the A-C ones are prone to damage.
Maybe he can use a rubbery plastic for the steps like Bachmann does so they can take up bump or handling.
Unfortunately I am too involved with Doug’s F3-A F3-B project to do anything about the Pacific now.
I assume you have checked to see if the wheels are in gauge? That Aristo axle can loosen the the shafts turn and slide out.
Thanks for the comments I’ll verify the wheels are in gauge, and Paul I’ll check out the pivot arm.
I verified that the gauge is ok. I then removed the tang from the pilot and ran the engine. It was definitely better but I still notice that there seems to be transfer of weight to the rear of the truck that lifts the front wheels enough that they stop turning. I did notice that the front wheels did seem to contact the rear of the kadee coupler box just slightly. I think my box is shorter than yours Paul which may be why I only have the problem on the 8’ diameter curves. I can see how shortening the pivot arm may solve the issue by increasing the clearance between the front wheels and the coupler box. Another solution might be going to the 1905 kadees with the box mounted in front of the pilot, or if possible move the box slightly forward to improve the clearance.
You can cut the tail off a truck mounted box and try it.
It will only be held on by one screw and may turn however.
Which might be a good thing in tight corners and switches.
BTW: Most Gauge 1 and G Scale (That will make Fred squirm!) truck mounted boxes are the same size.
It’s only the couplers and holes in the tail that change.
Once I removed the Kadee 820 problem solved. Seems the wheels were just touching the box enough to cause them to derail. Have ordered a Kadee 1905 will let you know how they work out. And Fred will be happy to know I cut off the truck mounting tang, can’t go back to truck mounted.
You weren’t able to trim the coupler box?
Greg
Did consider it Greg and may do it yet, but had already decided to use the 1905 for my other project. Would be interested in what others have done to mount couplers on the front of the Pacifics.
I’ve trimmed coupler boxes a lot, does not seem to bother operation.
Have installed the 1905s and problem is solved, runs through the tighter curves no problem. Am very pleased with how this 1st generation Pacific runs.