Burl,
That is great! I hope you find a market for your products. Are you going to the East Coast Large Scale Train Show?
If not contact me, private email or message.
Nice, Burl…
Burl,
I saw that you sent me a message, don’t know if I succeeded to send one back.
Please email me at
RicgoldingatYahoodotcom
Yes Rooster, this is code - you won’t be able to figure it out.
Burl,
Welcome, glad you made it over here. Great stuff.
Geoff
Very nice and Welcome Burl!
Ric Golding said:
Burl,
I saw that you sent me a message, don’t know if I succeeded to send one back.
Please email me at
RicgoldingatYahoodotcom
Yes Rooster, this is code - you won’t be able to figure it out.
I will figure it out even if it’s the death of me Ric and I do have a secret decoder ring.
very nice Burl, and welcome aboard
Hello Burl, are you into making any more car kits???
Hi Burl, I was just re-reading your GR articles on casting (Aug 07-Feb 08) recently, hoping to dive in to resin casting. And I just ordered 6 window and door models today from Shapeways, to serve as masters. So thanks for those articles!
I’m plowing through all the decisions on vacuum pumps and chambers now… I think I’m going with a Robinair 2-stage 3 cfm, pulls over 29"Hg (they say). Ever messed with the Harbor Freight equivalent? For $20 cheaper, I don’t think I want to risk it…
Anyway, I was pleased to see your recent post, and have a chance to say howdy and gracias.
And really nice modeling, what software are you using?
Cliff
Looks good Burl, Now I think the time has come to mass produce those Hicubes…
Cliff Jennings said:
I’m plowing through all the decisions on vacuum pumps and chambers now… I think I’m going with a Robinair 2-stage 3 cfm, pulls over 29"Hg (they say). Ever messed with the Harbor Freight equivalent? For $20 cheaper, I don’t think I want to risk it…
Cliff
I’ve been using the HF pump for more than 2 years now and it works great. I also use their paint pot but wish I had bought one from Sears. The clamps are better on the Craftsman.
Rodney
Cliff: I am using Sketchup.
You didn’t say what your having your patterns printed in, but if they are nylon, you better seal them with something to make them non-porous. Otherwise, you will never get the RTV off them.
Burl Rice said:
Cliff: I am using Sketchup.
You didn’t say what your having your patterns printed in, but if they are nylon, you better seal them with something to make them non-porous. Otherwise, you will never get the RTV off them.
Burl,
What are you using to seal the patterns?
I have not tried to make a mold from anything nylon. I did have some parts printed in “frosted detail”, which has more grain that “frosted ultra detail”. The RTV did not want to let go. Shapeways tells you the nylon is so porous that it will soak up paint, so I can only imagine RTV will really bite into it too.
I was considering using Future floor polish on my FUD patterns, but haven’t tried anything yet.
Got around to casting some in resin:
(http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS2CD4427/AB_patterns_resin.jpg)http://burlrice.com/_LS_PS2CD4427/AB_patterns_resin.jpg
Any noticeable shrinkage from the 3D printed part to the resin copy? I know if the past you’ve mentioned that 1st and 2nd generation molds will have a slight shrinkage percentage that must be taken into account. Didn’t you say 2%?
Craig
Stuff this small, I generally don’t worry about it.
I have added some 1:29 air hose assemblies to my shop:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1711945/1-29-air-hose-assembly.html?li=shop-results&materialId=6
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1712729/1-29-air-hose-assembly.html?li=shop-results&materialId=6
Very cool. 3D printing is going to lower the pain of making highly detailed models in large scale, when items like these are readily available, like so many detail parts are in HO